Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh no there is a way....get everything out of the way heater hoses, coil pack loom, vacuum hoses i mean everything. then you can get a hand in there and a screw driver and you can fiddle around with it....

also you can loosen the engine mounts loosen not take off. then jack the engine on a tilt to give you more room.

it is very fiddly and complicated and so frustrating but it can be done...

its basically a real prick of a position to get to, in between the firewall and the rear of the motor. persistence is your friend. i ended up taking my bonnet off to get over the area more ergonomically if i remember right, i did it ages ago...

but why would those lines "keep cracking". I've never broken one in the race car (broken lots of other stuff!).

do you have the turbo/sump pipe brackets on? Are the manifolds OK (not cracked)?

some other problem here

Not sure which Turbo/sump bracket you mean but as far as i can tell everything else is fine..just pulled it all off to replace cracked manifold studs thought id replace the whole line while it was apart

The original line has been cut with the flame proof rubber hose put in place, the hose but gets dry and hot and eventually cracks the outer tubing near the turbo ex housing

Was just wondering how hard it was to change, appears its very hard..Maybe i should try run the hose away from the turbo more so it doesnt get so hot..If you guys arent having problems it must be my setup, I'll drop by pirtek maybe see what hose they have

Cheap way is just to cut off the metal line and replace the mid section with abit of good rubber hose and clamps.

will heater hose do or is there a particular hose better suited to something so close to the turbo and manifold?

but why would those lines "keep cracking". I've never broken one in the race car (broken lots of other stuff!).

do you have the turbo/sump pipe brackets on? Are the manifolds OK (not cracked)?

some other problem here

the on mine that has split (im assuming its the same one) comes from the manifold to the turbo, when i changed my turbo i dont remember there being a sump bracket there, mine has split the rubber hose, its only about 3 or 4" long and goes around the rear drivers side corner of the block.

Helped a mate replace this hose on his car after it burst one night on the dyno, it connects to the head flange water return under the plenum. With the plenum off its a pretty straight forward job. Getting the plenum off is the bit that tests the patience. There is a barbed fitting under there that a -6 hose fits, run this to the metal block that has the vacuum line attached also. Cut the pipe off and drill and tap the rear of it to accept a barbed fitting and attach the -6 hose.

good luck

EDIT: this was on a GTR...for GTS-t just plug the line and run it to the radiator outlet neck on the engine. That way can show off your bit of bling braided hose!

Edited by Supa Steve

Ok found it..didnt have to take the bonnet of or anything, did have cam covers and aac out which helped...helped cut my hands on the sharp edges of the head that is :D , but with some perseverance got that prick of a bolt out, have just run gates flame proof hose all the way .

Have run hose down and back up to turbo to keep it away from the ex housing a bit,,it now connects vertically not horizontal if that makes any sense..

Pretty sure water can pump up hill cant it?

It doesnt go any higher than original, goes from rail under plenum straight around back of head under heater hoses,but instead of going straight to turbo goes down and then back up again ..

By bleed bolt is that the bolt right up the top at front of the plenum?

I was wondering what that was for

Edited by Arthur T3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...