Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just managed to put a kit on my r34 and want it spray painted professional in a jet black colour (cars original colour is black)

alot of people recommend DT panelts but from what ive seen when i drive past is they seem to dry all their parts in the sun and dont have a spraypainting room which im not a fan of.

havnt had a chat to them personally but im looking for a good quality job and willing to pay for it.

any help much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324739-respaying-my-car/
Share on other sites

hey guys just managed to put a kit on my r34 and want it spray painted professional in a jet black colour (cars original colour is black)

alot of people recommend DT panelts but from what ive seen when i drive past is they seem to dry all their parts in the sun and dont have a spraypainting room which im not a fan of.

havnt had a chat to them personally but im looking for a good quality job and willing to pay for it.

any help much appreciated.

I'm pretty sure DT has a spray booth / oven. And if you want to see the quality of their work, Daniel's R34 GTT with full East Bear kit will be a good example, think it was sprayed 4 years ago and with the proper love and care, til now, the car is in immac condition :D

If you are willing to pay more for a even more awesome job, then try MiColour, lots of people recommends them. Give Mick a call.

EDIT: Here's a link to Daniel's R34, it's one of the best GTT you will see around. Click here.

yeah, they have the stands outside more than likely for a place to work :P but no, not drying

first question, what's your budget?

And JET BLACK will require a fair whack of time and effort to maintain. If you can't be assed AT LEAST go metallic.

EDIT: thanks Charles :D still getting comments on your b-pillars - one guy was like 'phwoar, are they dry carbon!?' lol

vu has sprayed mine and many of my friends cars, his body skills are also very good for little things like removing and welding holes etc.

my cars about to go back there to get the engine bay spray painted.

he definately has a spray booth the parts that r out the front are usually just being finished sanding and prepped.

heres my car in the booth...

post-31553-1276649482_thumb.jpg

Speak to Vu at DT does all my work including my old 1977 LTD in jet black (worst possible job to give any shop) and it is coming up a treat.

Everything is relative make sure you explain what kind of job you want to the paint shop, most guys want quick spray jobs so get charged appropriately, if you want a show stopper then make sure your prepared to pay for it.

I see alot of people commenting on shops work without comparing the costs. I know VU will do whatever you ask. Athids cover car was one of the nicest paint jobs around and i can tell you noone else could do it for the price of DT's.

Fast_Fours_38.jpg

post-a207511-Fast-Fours-56.jpg

That's a mint looking S15! Wheels suit perfectly and bodykit looks rather flush compared to most. Able to give us a ballpark on what the paintjob for that one cost?

Everything is 100% relative to cost, it's more of a labour process rather than a product.

That's a mint looking S15! Wheels suit perfectly and bodykit looks rather flush compared to most. Able to give us a ballpark on what the paintjob for that one cost?

Everything is 100% relative to cost, it's more of a labour process rather than a product.

remember some paints push 1000 a litre too... i had a candy 180 in here that had 5k of paint on it without any labour or prep...

im not going to post what that job cost as its not my car, im sure vu can advise you to how much it would cost.

remember some paints push 1000 a litre too... i had a candy 180 in here that had 5k of paint on it without any labour or prep...

im not going to post what that job cost as its not my car, im sure vu can advise you to how much it would cost.

yeah alot of HOK stuff starts around 1k a litre. so does 'top secret' gold if you buy it from them....

it always makes me laugh about the comments on the cost of candy colours and house of kolours......house of kolours has to be the biggest rort ive ever seen...its all marketing shit that far too many people fall for,they dont have anything that hasnt been out for atleast 15 years sold under a diffrent label...we use SEM candy pigments every day here at work which are about $150 a litre(we dilute 10-20 grams to 100grams of clear,so all up it would roughly 6lts)We also have DNA pigments which are a bit more concentrated,so depending on the colour you require you put down a ground coat thats half way to what you want to acheive for example if i want to paint a job mandarine orange i would make a metallic orange ground coat with 2 coats of mandarine pigment over the top.Most people are under the misconception that you use silver under pigments but this leads to leaning to hard on the dye causing "train tracks" and a patchy look....so at a quick run down $150 for dye,clear $500,4lts of base coat $300 and thats your colour taken care of for under a gorillla(which you would have lots left over if you play it smart and use a tinted undercoat)so anyone thats considering painting there car in pigment dont get brain washed by all the bullshit marketing!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM.   I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup.   I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software:   Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump:     Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ?   I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 😅  
    • Thank you, this will keep me busy for a bit.  I will update progression.
    • That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
    • Rear turbo is leaky, most likely at the oil drain. From what I could see with my boroscope it seemed to have seeped out at the very top of that return hose. Is it possible that the oil climbs up that hose to then leak out? Yup, coolant leak on the hot side of the engine, only noticed after seeing clear rusty residue in the block right from the turbo oil feed downwards to the pan, and red droplets hanging from the pan. No clear sign yet from where it comes, and most of the lines there are hardlines right? Last year, seeing those red drops, I thought it was power steering, will be glad if that is not leaky at least. Another leaking hose I found by chance is the lower of the two heater core hoses coming from the firewall to the back of the head. That one is not too bad to get to if I have to replace.
    • I think for response I'm already kind of out there no? he -5s are not the best pick for that as the Internet tells me. Maybe I should switch to -7s while I still can? Though that almost definitely warrants an engine pull along with the other issues I have.
×
×
  • Create New...