Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trying to fit an MR30 'box into an auto body, and neither Auto mount nor manual one is anything like close to fitting...

The Auto body has a very wide transmission tunnel, so the manual crossmember doesn't gp close to toching the floorpan on either side... the Auto crossmember crosses the gearbox about 10cm rear of the gearbox mount, and the gearbox mount won't fit over the cross member...

Also, the auto crossmember sits over two bolts in the floor, but unlike the manual, they are at two different heights...

Any ideas???

I know I can fabricate a crossmember, but it isn't like Datsun Lego to have things that aren't interchangeable...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324769-mr30-auto-to-manual-conversion/
Share on other sites

Very glad you have let us know this.

I had contemplated a ,anual conversion for some time. Now by reading this it wont be a 'weekend' job after all.

This week I have received an auto shift kit and some other bolt ons, so I should be ok for the next 100kW or so....

Good luck making the new one... please take some pics and document what is needed for us other auto drivers!

Very glad you have let us know this.

I had contemplated a ,anual conversion for some time. Now by reading this it wont be a 'weekend' job after all.

This week I have received an auto shift kit and some other bolt ons, so I should be ok for the next 100kW or so....

Good luck making the new one... please take some pics and document what is needed for us other auto drivers!

What I have come across so far, this is the only real hassle...

Crank - I remember someone posted on here that they thought the crank was different, which would have gone against any other Datsun I have worked on - When you take off the Torque Converter and Flex plate, there is a small plate over the end of the crank, which wouldn't allow the flywheel to mate up against the crank surface... just lever that plate off with a screwdriver... the crank is no different... the Flex Plate & Flywheel bolts are identicle so can be re-used... make sure you get the plate that sits between the flywheel and the engine when you get the flywheel/clutch... and remember to put in one BEFORE torquing up the flywheel, and clutch (or even worse getting the whole GB into place.... lesson from you youth...

Tail Shaft... you need the tailshaft yoke for a manual box (different to an Auto)... If you use a 'box from an MR30 (Short box) you need a manual tailshaft as the short section is a different length to the Auto one, and the yoke is different... If you are using a '240K box' or simillar, you can re-use the shorter Auto Tailshaft complete, and just change the yoke at the Uni Joint...

Cross member... The Auto Cross-member would fit with the longer 'K box', but you would need to find a gearbox mount to fit, or maybe some mods to the cross-member... (grinding the plate that makes to too wide to fit into the mount, and drill holes to match the mount...

Speedo Cable... The Speedo Cable enters the MR30 box on the opposite side to the Auto and all other Datsun boxes, so you probably need the Manual Speedo Cable Assembly as well...

Clutch Pedal & Cylinders... I think you need to grab the pedal AND the bar that it pivots on at the top of the pedal box... I would grab the brake pedal from the manual as well... although for a while we considered a wide Auto Brake pedal as a good rally mod... you can fit two feet on it when you think you are going to die... :lol: ... the firewall has a plate blanking off the hole for the cylinder, just remove it...

Gearbox Bolts... You need the bolts from the manual car, as Auto ones are shorter, and you can not but the correct length ones with a 14mm head...

The cross member if the only thing that will throw out a 'weekend' conversion, and only then if you use the short MR30 box... If you sort everything else out in advance, (especially the tailshaft) you would still knock it over in the same time as any clutch change (45 mins - gearbox out, 30 mins - clutch in place, 1 1/4 hours gearbox back in)...

My secret weapon is an old Main Bearing Cap that you jam in the ring gear against the dowel in the block... stops the flywheel turning when you are unbolting/bolting the clutch/flywheel...

Personally I am thinking of changing to a 'K' box as they are stronger, and it means I don't need to fabricate a crossmember... but the gearstick will sit about 100mm further back than standard, and the standard gearstick is already bent forward at a less than ideal angle...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Edited by Daewoo
  • 2 months later...
...

The cross member if the only thing that will throw out a 'weekend' conversion, and only then if you use the short MR30 box...  

Did you manage to fit the R30 5-speed box? How did you resolve the problem with the cross member?

cheers,

JohnH

  • 2 weeks later...
Did you manage to fit the R30 5-speed box? How did you resolve the problem with the cross member?

cheers,

JohnH

I have been realy lazy, and let this job slide a lot... I will just fabricate a crossmember... nothing new... anyone who has fitted a 240K box to a 1600 has done it, although the shape is a bit different this time around...

I could procrastanate for Australia... why put something off until tomorrow, when you can put it off till the weekend after that...

Cheers,

Daewoo

  • 7 months later...

Trying to fit an MR30 'box into an auto body, and neither Auto mount nor manual one is anything like close to fitting...

The Auto body has a very wide transmission tunnel, so the manual crossmember doesn't gp close to toching the floorpan on either side...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Did you ever fabricate that crossmember or find one that fits? if so did you take pics or make a design?

and does this mean the auto box wont fit in the manual bodys transmission tunnel?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...