Jump to content
SAU Community

Mr30 Auto To Manual Conversion

Daewoo
 Share

Recommended Posts

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
Posted

Trying to fit an MR30 'box into an auto body, and neither Auto mount nor manual one is anything like close to fitting...

The Auto body has a very wide transmission tunnel, so the manual crossmember doesn't gp close to toching the floorpan on either side... the Auto crossmember crosses the gearbox about 10cm rear of the gearbox mount, and the gearbox mount won't fit over the cross member...

Also, the auto crossmember sits over two bolts in the floor, but unlike the manual, they are at two different heights...

Any ideas???

I know I can fabricate a crossmember, but it isn't like Datsun Lego to have things that aren't interchangeable...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324769-mr30-auto-to-manual-conversion/
Share on other sites
Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

Very glad you have let us know this.

I had contemplated a ,anual conversion for some time. Now by reading this it wont be a 'weekend' job after all.

This week I have received an auto shift kit and some other bolt ons, so I should be ok for the next 100kW or so....

Good luck making the new one... please take some pics and document what is needed for us other auto drivers!

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Very glad you have let us know this.

I had contemplated a ,anual conversion for some time. Now by reading this it wont be a 'weekend' job after all.

This week I have received an auto shift kit and some other bolt ons, so I should be ok for the next 100kW or so....

Good luck making the new one... please take some pics and document what is needed for us other auto drivers!

What I have come across so far, this is the only real hassle...

Crank - I remember someone posted on here that they thought the crank was different, which would have gone against any other Datsun I have worked on - When you take off the Torque Converter and Flex plate, there is a small plate over the end of the crank, which wouldn't allow the flywheel to mate up against the crank surface... just lever that plate off with a screwdriver... the crank is no different... the Flex Plate & Flywheel bolts are identicle so can be re-used... make sure you get the plate that sits between the flywheel and the engine when you get the flywheel/clutch... and remember to put in one BEFORE torquing up the flywheel, and clutch (or even worse getting the whole GB into place.... lesson from you youth...

Tail Shaft... you need the tailshaft yoke for a manual box (different to an Auto)... If you use a 'box from an MR30 (Short box) you need a manual tailshaft as the short section is a different length to the Auto one, and the yoke is different... If you are using a '240K box' or simillar, you can re-use the shorter Auto Tailshaft complete, and just change the yoke at the Uni Joint...

Cross member... The Auto Cross-member would fit with the longer 'K box', but you would need to find a gearbox mount to fit, or maybe some mods to the cross-member... (grinding the plate that makes to too wide to fit into the mount, and drill holes to match the mount...

Speedo Cable... The Speedo Cable enters the MR30 box on the opposite side to the Auto and all other Datsun boxes, so you probably need the Manual Speedo Cable Assembly as well...

Clutch Pedal & Cylinders... I think you need to grab the pedal AND the bar that it pivots on at the top of the pedal box... I would grab the brake pedal from the manual as well... although for a while we considered a wide Auto Brake pedal as a good rally mod... you can fit two feet on it when you think you are going to die... :lol: ... the firewall has a plate blanking off the hole for the cylinder, just remove it...

Gearbox Bolts... You need the bolts from the manual car, as Auto ones are shorter, and you can not but the correct length ones with a 14mm head...

The cross member if the only thing that will throw out a 'weekend' conversion, and only then if you use the short MR30 box... If you sort everything else out in advance, (especially the tailshaft) you would still knock it over in the same time as any clutch change (45 mins - gearbox out, 30 mins - clutch in place, 1 1/4 hours gearbox back in)...

My secret weapon is an old Main Bearing Cap that you jam in the ring gear against the dowel in the block... stops the flywheel turning when you are unbolting/bolting the clutch/flywheel...

Personally I am thinking of changing to a 'K' box as they are stronger, and it means I don't need to fabricate a crossmember... but the gearstick will sit about 100mm further back than standard, and the standard gearstick is already bent forward at a less than ideal angle...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Edited by Daewoo
  • 2 months later...
jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
Posted
...

The cross member if the only thing that will throw out a 'weekend' conversion, and only then if you use the short MR30 box...  

Did you manage to fit the R30 5-speed box? How did you resolve the problem with the cross member?

cheers,

JohnH

  • 2 weeks later...
Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did you manage to fit the R30 5-speed box? How did you resolve the problem with the cross member?

cheers,

JohnH

I have been realy lazy, and let this job slide a lot... I will just fabricate a crossmember... nothing new... anyone who has fitted a 240K box to a 1600 has done it, although the shape is a bit different this time around...

I could procrastanate for Australia... why put something off until tomorrow, when you can put it off till the weekend after that...

Cheers,

Daewoo

  • 7 months later...
modbox Apprentice

modbox

Posted
Posted

Trying to fit an MR30 'box into an auto body, and neither Auto mount nor manual one is anything like close to fitting...

The Auto body has a very wide transmission tunnel, so the manual crossmember doesn't gp close to toching the floorpan on either side...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Did you ever fabricate that crossmember or find one that fits? if so did you take pics or make a design?

and does this mean the auto box wont fit in the manual bodys transmission tunnel?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • r32-25t
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...