Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trying to fit an MR30 'box into an auto body, and neither Auto mount nor manual one is anything like close to fitting...

The Auto body has a very wide transmission tunnel, so the manual crossmember doesn't gp close to toching the floorpan on either side... the Auto crossmember crosses the gearbox about 10cm rear of the gearbox mount, and the gearbox mount won't fit over the cross member...

Also, the auto crossmember sits over two bolts in the floor, but unlike the manual, they are at two different heights...

Any ideas???

I know I can fabricate a crossmember, but it isn't like Datsun Lego to have things that aren't interchangeable...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324769-mr30-auto-to-manual-conversion/
Share on other sites

Very glad you have let us know this.

I had contemplated a ,anual conversion for some time. Now by reading this it wont be a 'weekend' job after all.

This week I have received an auto shift kit and some other bolt ons, so I should be ok for the next 100kW or so....

Good luck making the new one... please take some pics and document what is needed for us other auto drivers!

Very glad you have let us know this.

I had contemplated a ,anual conversion for some time. Now by reading this it wont be a 'weekend' job after all.

This week I have received an auto shift kit and some other bolt ons, so I should be ok for the next 100kW or so....

Good luck making the new one... please take some pics and document what is needed for us other auto drivers!

What I have come across so far, this is the only real hassle...

Crank - I remember someone posted on here that they thought the crank was different, which would have gone against any other Datsun I have worked on - When you take off the Torque Converter and Flex plate, there is a small plate over the end of the crank, which wouldn't allow the flywheel to mate up against the crank surface... just lever that plate off with a screwdriver... the crank is no different... the Flex Plate & Flywheel bolts are identicle so can be re-used... make sure you get the plate that sits between the flywheel and the engine when you get the flywheel/clutch... and remember to put in one BEFORE torquing up the flywheel, and clutch (or even worse getting the whole GB into place.... lesson from you youth...

Tail Shaft... you need the tailshaft yoke for a manual box (different to an Auto)... If you use a 'box from an MR30 (Short box) you need a manual tailshaft as the short section is a different length to the Auto one, and the yoke is different... If you are using a '240K box' or simillar, you can re-use the shorter Auto Tailshaft complete, and just change the yoke at the Uni Joint...

Cross member... The Auto Cross-member would fit with the longer 'K box', but you would need to find a gearbox mount to fit, or maybe some mods to the cross-member... (grinding the plate that makes to too wide to fit into the mount, and drill holes to match the mount...

Speedo Cable... The Speedo Cable enters the MR30 box on the opposite side to the Auto and all other Datsun boxes, so you probably need the Manual Speedo Cable Assembly as well...

Clutch Pedal & Cylinders... I think you need to grab the pedal AND the bar that it pivots on at the top of the pedal box... I would grab the brake pedal from the manual as well... although for a while we considered a wide Auto Brake pedal as a good rally mod... you can fit two feet on it when you think you are going to die... :lol: ... the firewall has a plate blanking off the hole for the cylinder, just remove it...

Gearbox Bolts... You need the bolts from the manual car, as Auto ones are shorter, and you can not but the correct length ones with a 14mm head...

The cross member if the only thing that will throw out a 'weekend' conversion, and only then if you use the short MR30 box... If you sort everything else out in advance, (especially the tailshaft) you would still knock it over in the same time as any clutch change (45 mins - gearbox out, 30 mins - clutch in place, 1 1/4 hours gearbox back in)...

My secret weapon is an old Main Bearing Cap that you jam in the ring gear against the dowel in the block... stops the flywheel turning when you are unbolting/bolting the clutch/flywheel...

Personally I am thinking of changing to a 'K' box as they are stronger, and it means I don't need to fabricate a crossmember... but the gearstick will sit about 100mm further back than standard, and the standard gearstick is already bent forward at a less than ideal angle...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Edited by Daewoo
  • 2 months later...
...

The cross member if the only thing that will throw out a 'weekend' conversion, and only then if you use the short MR30 box...  

Did you manage to fit the R30 5-speed box? How did you resolve the problem with the cross member?

cheers,

JohnH

  • 2 weeks later...
Did you manage to fit the R30 5-speed box? How did you resolve the problem with the cross member?

cheers,

JohnH

I have been realy lazy, and let this job slide a lot... I will just fabricate a crossmember... nothing new... anyone who has fitted a 240K box to a 1600 has done it, although the shape is a bit different this time around...

I could procrastanate for Australia... why put something off until tomorrow, when you can put it off till the weekend after that...

Cheers,

Daewoo

  • 7 months later...

Trying to fit an MR30 'box into an auto body, and neither Auto mount nor manual one is anything like close to fitting...

The Auto body has a very wide transmission tunnel, so the manual crossmember doesn't gp close to toching the floorpan on either side...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Did you ever fabricate that crossmember or find one that fits? if so did you take pics or make a design?

and does this mean the auto box wont fit in the manual bodys transmission tunnel?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
    • Cut sump up and extend. Win win 😂 
    • All, What's the recommended torque for the 1/2 head studs for RB30 twin cam conversion with RB26 head?  
    • also, we need to know which solution worked....
×
×
  • Create New...