Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trying to fit an MR30 'box into an auto body, and neither Auto mount nor manual one is anything like close to fitting...

The Auto body has a very wide transmission tunnel, so the manual crossmember doesn't gp close to toching the floorpan on either side... the Auto crossmember crosses the gearbox about 10cm rear of the gearbox mount, and the gearbox mount won't fit over the cross member...

Also, the auto crossmember sits over two bolts in the floor, but unlike the manual, they are at two different heights...

Any ideas???

I know I can fabricate a crossmember, but it isn't like Datsun Lego to have things that aren't interchangeable...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324769-mr30-auto-to-manual-conversion/
Share on other sites

Very glad you have let us know this.

I had contemplated a ,anual conversion for some time. Now by reading this it wont be a 'weekend' job after all.

This week I have received an auto shift kit and some other bolt ons, so I should be ok for the next 100kW or so....

Good luck making the new one... please take some pics and document what is needed for us other auto drivers!

Very glad you have let us know this.

I had contemplated a ,anual conversion for some time. Now by reading this it wont be a 'weekend' job after all.

This week I have received an auto shift kit and some other bolt ons, so I should be ok for the next 100kW or so....

Good luck making the new one... please take some pics and document what is needed for us other auto drivers!

What I have come across so far, this is the only real hassle...

Crank - I remember someone posted on here that they thought the crank was different, which would have gone against any other Datsun I have worked on - When you take off the Torque Converter and Flex plate, there is a small plate over the end of the crank, which wouldn't allow the flywheel to mate up against the crank surface... just lever that plate off with a screwdriver... the crank is no different... the Flex Plate & Flywheel bolts are identicle so can be re-used... make sure you get the plate that sits between the flywheel and the engine when you get the flywheel/clutch... and remember to put in one BEFORE torquing up the flywheel, and clutch (or even worse getting the whole GB into place.... lesson from you youth...

Tail Shaft... you need the tailshaft yoke for a manual box (different to an Auto)... If you use a 'box from an MR30 (Short box) you need a manual tailshaft as the short section is a different length to the Auto one, and the yoke is different... If you are using a '240K box' or simillar, you can re-use the shorter Auto Tailshaft complete, and just change the yoke at the Uni Joint...

Cross member... The Auto Cross-member would fit with the longer 'K box', but you would need to find a gearbox mount to fit, or maybe some mods to the cross-member... (grinding the plate that makes to too wide to fit into the mount, and drill holes to match the mount...

Speedo Cable... The Speedo Cable enters the MR30 box on the opposite side to the Auto and all other Datsun boxes, so you probably need the Manual Speedo Cable Assembly as well...

Clutch Pedal & Cylinders... I think you need to grab the pedal AND the bar that it pivots on at the top of the pedal box... I would grab the brake pedal from the manual as well... although for a while we considered a wide Auto Brake pedal as a good rally mod... you can fit two feet on it when you think you are going to die... :lol: ... the firewall has a plate blanking off the hole for the cylinder, just remove it...

Gearbox Bolts... You need the bolts from the manual car, as Auto ones are shorter, and you can not but the correct length ones with a 14mm head...

The cross member if the only thing that will throw out a 'weekend' conversion, and only then if you use the short MR30 box... If you sort everything else out in advance, (especially the tailshaft) you would still knock it over in the same time as any clutch change (45 mins - gearbox out, 30 mins - clutch in place, 1 1/4 hours gearbox back in)...

My secret weapon is an old Main Bearing Cap that you jam in the ring gear against the dowel in the block... stops the flywheel turning when you are unbolting/bolting the clutch/flywheel...

Personally I am thinking of changing to a 'K' box as they are stronger, and it means I don't need to fabricate a crossmember... but the gearstick will sit about 100mm further back than standard, and the standard gearstick is already bent forward at a less than ideal angle...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Edited by Daewoo
  • 2 months later...
...

The cross member if the only thing that will throw out a 'weekend' conversion, and only then if you use the short MR30 box...  

Did you manage to fit the R30 5-speed box? How did you resolve the problem with the cross member?

cheers,

JohnH

  • 2 weeks later...
Did you manage to fit the R30 5-speed box? How did you resolve the problem with the cross member?

cheers,

JohnH

I have been realy lazy, and let this job slide a lot... I will just fabricate a crossmember... nothing new... anyone who has fitted a 240K box to a 1600 has done it, although the shape is a bit different this time around...

I could procrastanate for Australia... why put something off until tomorrow, when you can put it off till the weekend after that...

Cheers,

Daewoo

  • 7 months later...

Trying to fit an MR30 'box into an auto body, and neither Auto mount nor manual one is anything like close to fitting...

The Auto body has a very wide transmission tunnel, so the manual crossmember doesn't gp close to toching the floorpan on either side...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Did you ever fabricate that crossmember or find one that fits? if so did you take pics or make a design?

and does this mean the auto box wont fit in the manual bodys transmission tunnel?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good points thanks. Unfortunately I can't seem to rename this or delete the topic. Seems like I'll ask the moderators to change it or delete it.
    • You might want to update the thread title.  V37 ≠ V36.  And it probably isn't a G37 unless it is 2012+ Ininiti or LHD.
    • Just a basic run down of the relevant bolt-ons. All e85 First graph 406.9whp is HKS GT-RS, HPI manifold, 3" bell mouth dump / 3" straight through fake cat / 3" all the way to the rear and no resonators, nismo 740cc, walbro 460, oem RB26 itb's, power fc, eboost2, Greddy Spec M fmic, poncams, Turbosmart actuator, splitfires, ARD 150amp alternator. Blue line is same as above but Blitz Dual SBC (before i upgraded to eboost2) and 100cell "high flow" cat. Red line is after installing eboost2 and the fake 3" cat (it's just a 3" pipe with a cat shell welded onto it). Huge gains in response, as can be seen. Black dots are a mates sr20 with almost identical setup but uses a garrett 2871 instead oh HKS. Next grapghn 466.6whp is same as above, but HKS 2835 Pro S with the larger .87ar turbine housing, the special HKS Pro S dump pipe into a HPI split dual 2.5" front pipe and the rest stayed as is. Red line is after I welded the actuator brackets. (It was originally bolted together and was moving a couple millimetres under load). Green line is obviously before I welded the bracket, no other changes. 100whp gain at 3750rpm, massive gain for such a simple fix. Third graph is my current setup, huge changes. 469.7whp R31house twin scroll manifold, twin TiAl 38mm gates, Forced Performance (USA) HTA3076 with 1.01ar twin scroll rear housing, Link Fury+ and loom by 12volt, PRP trigger kit and r35 coil kit with r35 splitfire coils, HKS step 1 vct staggered cams, new oem lifters and performance springs, 49mm itb's w/port matched Nismo plenum, twin walbro 460 surge tank setup + 1650cc injectors, HKS Type R S13 600x300x103mm fmic, individual egt's, 4" turbo back with no resonators or cat and AES true straight through muffler + 4" butterfly off the dump pipe lower 90° bend. It's a preliminary tune with no boost control with using 20psi gate springs and 4" butterfly closed. Once body loom and PDM is compete, will go for 30psi tune.
    • Power light apparently functions as a transmission error light, you can try the power sequence to read any codes from the transmission control unit.  
×
×
  • Create New...