Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i thought it u were allowed 3 inches more than standard? so if standard is 16, wouldnt 19 be just legal or is that including the tyre also?

while were are on the topic of wheels :P does anyone's r33 space saver 17"?? i thought it was a bit weird cause if standard is 16 on a 33 gtst i have no idea why my space saver 17" only conclusion i can come up with is the previous owner bought it... but who buys space saver wheels?????

pretty sure the rule is that you can go as large a rim as possible as long as the diameter of the tyre is no bigger than 15mm more than standard or 26mm less than standard.

the 1.3 times rule applies to the width of the tyre. so if the widest optional tyre was a 205 then the widest tyre you can legally fit is a 265.

then both those rules can be followed but you can still not be legal if the tyre doesn't have the correct load rating.

then if you get wheels with the wrong offest you can be defected for altering the track of the vehicle. (can be widened by up to 26mm, so that's a difference of 13mm offset per wheel. can't be reduced though)

there is no rules reguarding the maximum width or height of rims (unlike nsw where you are allowed to only go 26mm wider than the widest optional rim without needing it certified), however you would be bound by what tyres you can run as your tyre/rim combination must be suitable (can't put super wide tyres on skinny rims, and can't stretch a 235 onto a 10" rim, LOL). they must still meet the australian tyre and rim standards.

pretty sure the rule is that you can go as large a rim as possible as long as the diameter of the tyre is no bigger than 15mm more than standard or 26mm less than standard.

the 1.3 times rule applies to the width of the tyre. so if the widest optional tyre was a 205 then the widest tyre you can legally fit is a 265.

then both those rules can be followed but you can still not be legal if the tyre doesn't have the correct load rating.

then if you get wheels with the wrong offest you can be defected for altering the track of the vehicle. (can be widened by up to 26mm, so that's a difference of 13mm offset per wheel. can't be reduced though)

there is no rules reguarding the maximum width or height of rims (unlike nsw where you are allowed to only go 26mm wider than the widest optional rim without needing it certified), however you would be bound by what tyres you can run as your tyre/rim combination must be suitable (can't put super wide tyres on skinny rims, and can't stretch a 235 onto a 10" rim, LOL). they must still meet the australian tyre and rim standards.

ahh trueee thats help now i know for sure my wheels are illegal with the offset i have haha :P

thanks

post-73958-1276700934_thumb.jpg

HEY CHECK THIS OUT BOYZ!!

Here s a shot of this most hated and beloved DAEMON!! and many thanks to the buddies left their self-valued feedback!! Specially to all my friends - holder of PHD from Oxford University on ENGLISH Grammar!!....... excuse my english....just got out of a boat from CHRISTMAS ISLAND!0! AND impressed with the hospitality!!! Specially from Mr. DOUCHE!! :D & Mr. ASSHAT!!

AS THEY SAY - "U R WHAT U SAY"

A Genuine thanks to 8ZNR33 as out of all these nasty comments and personal abuse this was a feedback which is more relevant to this topics!!

"also with ur boost problem if it isnt ur turbo thats not letting u boost then look for a vacume leak or check ur piping. ***check all lines and piping feel each one dont just look from afar n think they are sweet*** (thats if it is the lines or piping)"

and i ve a gut feeling mr isola, douche and asshat r infact known to each other n looking after each others BACK!!

Thanks again.....

The giant post of faggotry was almost as blinding as the ugly ass chrome wheels. And I *love* the fuzzy dice. That's JDM as fuck :D are they for when you need to show the policeman how you'll cup him if he doesn't fine you for:

loose pod

vented bov

wheel spacers

non engineered FMIC

object hanging from your rear view mirror

?

Another 33 on the water though - points for getting it right (must the photo from when he arrived from Christmas Island)

The funniest part; is that anybody who mentioned anything about the illegal things on his car that a mechanic let slide, the ones that could save him a fine, those of us who were really really trying to help him, got called asshat, douche, and something else that I cbf going back to check because I can't read Shalik's scattered Indian-English... it makes my Oxford PHD cry.

actually... the funniest part might be that this car will always look stolen :P

I might go cheer myself up by performing on my performance wheels for a while :)

Edited by Isola

OP: the guys have been pretty harsh, but they raise some valid points. IMHO you should read between the lines and heed their advice.

Mechanic #6 definitely sounds dodgy, as mentioned you should only get a roadworthy cert if your car is indeed roadworthy. If he hands over RWCs that easily (aka a 'phoneworthy') then you have to wonder what kind of other questionable business practices they're involved in. Find a reputable mechanic and stick with them. The good ones are generally not the cheapest, and will often be the ones who will tell you what you don't want to hear rather than just saying "she'll be right", taking your money and sending you on your way. The first five you went to may have come up with different lists of problems but at least they didn't let an obviously illegal car pass a roadworthy. If you're on the Gold Coast then you have a few options, Gavin Wood for example has a pretty good reputation. If you're willing to go a bit further north, Elite Racing Developments at Yatala also has an extremely good reputation, and for any work I can't do myself is my mechanic of choice, despite them being an hour away.

If you want a turbo then check the SAU traders out, any one of them that deal with turbos should be able to give you plenty of advice, again ERD are a good place to start. As has also been mentioned though, you'll struggle to do much with $700, unless you can find a second-hand turbo, or maybe a Chinese knockoff of unknown quality (hint: don't).

As for your queries about car sound, check the Car Audio & Security section here on SAU. There are plenty of knowledgeable people around so as long as you're clear about what you are trying to achieve you should be laughing.

On a side note, the pic you posted isn't a GTR...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
×
×
  • Create New...