Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi rob and welcome to SAU. A few little details. Please ALWAYS use the search function (top right corner of the page) and see if your topic has been covered before. In almost all cases it has. Please DO NOT just make up new topics willy, nilly - we have enough trouble with important information topics being kicked off the front page in no time for the forums to be filled with redundant threads that have been answered before.

So, I suggest you go do a search and check the stickied 'workshop information' thread in the sticked thread section at the top of the SA forum.

i had my alarm installed by GT Autosound......they did an awesome work.....also had dealings with Auto Perfection and loved the service and quality of work from there too mate.....how far down south are you talking and if your willing to drive up a bit north as well :D

  Krishy said:
or save money....get a viper alarm and you wont regret it.....loads of functions and pretty cheap as well......then get it installed :P

Also one of the easiest alarms to get past if you know what youre doing :D

But in saying that, no alarm is good enough to stop someone from taking your car that knows what theyre doing anyways...

Edited by SkyHi_33
  Krishy said:
if someone is going to take my car then they are going to do whatever it takes to get it......regardless of what i do mate.....but a viper is a good enough investment for me

Also probably a good idea to not let people know what alarm you have ;P

I know its unlikely that any SAU member will be considering stealing a car but even car crims in lizbef have net access nowadays

-D

Troy you don't even need an alarm to be covered by insurance unless they absolutely made it clear that they wouldn't insure you without one.......if that was the case, they would tell you exactly what to install.

Having said that, best to always air on the side of caution and check with your insurance company as Troy stated....it's only a phone call.

I have no problem whatsoever with a dirty big blue VIPER symbol flashing on my dash window .... and it would seem the crooks do respect it, as I haven't had anyone touch my car (except for one small testing incident) and I park it everywhere. They also don't know it is the black wired version, I have 2 kill switches, and I have 4 of the loudest piezo screamers you have ever heard .... if their ears can take 30-90 seconds of those things going off in their ears while they hotwire the car, then they can have it.

well I've had Just Cars and Shannons and they both require alarms with proper immobilization points for agree coverage on my car

in case you want a real scare on car theft go here

CARSAFE theft stats per car

good old Adelaide, at least they can come first at something..lol

they must meet these regulations

AS/NZS 4601:1999 certified system include:

➜ Automatic immobilisation within 40 seconds

of ignition switch off;

➜ 2 independent points of immobilisation;

➜ Connections enclosed in security housing;

➜ All black security wiring;

➜ Flashing dashboard LED to indicate that the system

is armed; and

➜ Secure owner PIN override.

the alarm is only as good as the install, and the 100% use of it, even when it's in your garage

and there isn't any alarms that can't be cracked by a pro. if they want your car it's gone.

but it will prevent 95% of the other idiots from taking your car

multi layer security is best and common sense, don't leave your car in the hood..lol

  sapphiregraphics said:
in case you want a real scare on car theft go here

CARSAFE theft stats per car

good old Adelaide, at least they can come first at something..lol

Lol:

YOUR POSTCODE

With 5 or more thefts reported each week, postcode 5108 is one of the highest theft risk locations. We recommend that you read these simple precautions you can take to protect your vehicle from theft.

YOUR CAR

The NISSAN SKYLINE 1998 was not fitted with an immobiliser when it was manufactured and unless it has been fitted with an Australian Standards approved immobiliser since then it is at risk of theft.

New passenger cars sold in Australia are required to have an immobiliser but before 2001 many cars weren't fitted with them. As a result these cars are targets for opportunists to 'hotwire' using something as simple as a screwdriver.

Engine immobilisers provide the most effective barrier available between a thief and your car, as long as you keep your keys safe. Click here for more information.

I am with Just Cars Troy and all they wanted was any alarm with 2 point immobilisation. The original version of my alarm didn't come with black wiring and they didn't give a toss about it when I told them. I even gave them my alarm model number and they looked it up and said it was fine.

  SLED said:
so what does an insurance company do when it comes to a pay out if the car is never recovered or burnt to the ground (unable to confirm proper alarm installation if any)........they payout regardless of policy

Well respected insurance companies - such as Shannons - specify a particular standard of alarm system (as per AS/NZS certification) and required documentation to prove installation by an accredited installer - I have both documents noted on my Shannons policy. As for insurance companies such as JC... if one doesn't have anything nice to say, best not to say anything at all.

When I crashed my S15 (my fault) JC were awesome in letting me choose repairer, varying the amount of work done (I added a fg bodykit in leiu of the standard bars they had allowed for). I really can't complain at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.
    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
×
×
  • Create New...