Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi rob and welcome to SAU. A few little details. Please ALWAYS use the search function (top right corner of the page) and see if your topic has been covered before. In almost all cases it has. Please DO NOT just make up new topics willy, nilly - we have enough trouble with important information topics being kicked off the front page in no time for the forums to be filled with redundant threads that have been answered before.

So, I suggest you go do a search and check the stickied 'workshop information' thread in the sticked thread section at the top of the SA forum.

i had my alarm installed by GT Autosound......they did an awesome work.....also had dealings with Auto Perfection and loved the service and quality of work from there too mate.....how far down south are you talking and if your willing to drive up a bit north as well :D

or save money....get a viper alarm and you wont regret it.....loads of functions and pretty cheap as well......then get it installed :P

Also one of the easiest alarms to get past if you know what youre doing :D

But in saying that, no alarm is good enough to stop someone from taking your car that knows what theyre doing anyways...

Edited by SkyHi_33
if someone is going to take my car then they are going to do whatever it takes to get it......regardless of what i do mate.....but a viper is a good enough investment for me

Also probably a good idea to not let people know what alarm you have ;P

I know its unlikely that any SAU member will be considering stealing a car but even car crims in lizbef have net access nowadays

-D

Troy you don't even need an alarm to be covered by insurance unless they absolutely made it clear that they wouldn't insure you without one.......if that was the case, they would tell you exactly what to install.

Having said that, best to always air on the side of caution and check with your insurance company as Troy stated....it's only a phone call.

I have no problem whatsoever with a dirty big blue VIPER symbol flashing on my dash window .... and it would seem the crooks do respect it, as I haven't had anyone touch my car (except for one small testing incident) and I park it everywhere. They also don't know it is the black wired version, I have 2 kill switches, and I have 4 of the loudest piezo screamers you have ever heard .... if their ears can take 30-90 seconds of those things going off in their ears while they hotwire the car, then they can have it.

well I've had Just Cars and Shannons and they both require alarms with proper immobilization points for agree coverage on my car

in case you want a real scare on car theft go here

CARSAFE theft stats per car

good old Adelaide, at least they can come first at something..lol

they must meet these regulations

AS/NZS 4601:1999 certified system include:

➜ Automatic immobilisation within 40 seconds

of ignition switch off;

➜ 2 independent points of immobilisation;

➜ Connections enclosed in security housing;

➜ All black security wiring;

➜ Flashing dashboard LED to indicate that the system

is armed; and

➜ Secure owner PIN override.

the alarm is only as good as the install, and the 100% use of it, even when it's in your garage

and there isn't any alarms that can't be cracked by a pro. if they want your car it's gone.

but it will prevent 95% of the other idiots from taking your car

multi layer security is best and common sense, don't leave your car in the hood..lol

in case you want a real scare on car theft go here

CARSAFE theft stats per car

good old Adelaide, at least they can come first at something..lol

Lol:

YOUR POSTCODE

With 5 or more thefts reported each week, postcode 5108 is one of the highest theft risk locations. We recommend that you read these simple precautions you can take to protect your vehicle from theft.

YOUR CAR

The NISSAN SKYLINE 1998 was not fitted with an immobiliser when it was manufactured and unless it has been fitted with an Australian Standards approved immobiliser since then it is at risk of theft.

New passenger cars sold in Australia are required to have an immobiliser but before 2001 many cars weren't fitted with them. As a result these cars are targets for opportunists to 'hotwire' using something as simple as a screwdriver.

Engine immobilisers provide the most effective barrier available between a thief and your car, as long as you keep your keys safe. Click here for more information.

I am with Just Cars Troy and all they wanted was any alarm with 2 point immobilisation. The original version of my alarm didn't come with black wiring and they didn't give a toss about it when I told them. I even gave them my alarm model number and they looked it up and said it was fine.

so what does an insurance company do when it comes to a pay out if the car is never recovered or burnt to the ground (unable to confirm proper alarm installation if any)........they payout regardless of policy

Well respected insurance companies - such as Shannons - specify a particular standard of alarm system (as per AS/NZS certification) and required documentation to prove installation by an accredited installer - I have both documents noted on my Shannons policy. As for insurance companies such as JC... if one doesn't have anything nice to say, best not to say anything at all.

When I crashed my S15 (my fault) JC were awesome in letting me choose repairer, varying the amount of work done (I added a fg bodykit in leiu of the standard bars they had allowed for). I really can't complain at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
    • I’ll have more of a look into Recaros over the weekend. It’s taken me 2 days to figure out which Bride seats suit my application haha.
    • I am aware of their presence, but the product page looked like that conversion will eliminate the AWD capability. Fact remains it's kind of a hassle to send my oil sump halfway around the world and buying an extra one is expensive and unnecessary. Before I go hat route I'd explore more local options.    Would you recommend I just pull the engine and renew as many things as possible since I'm already having problems with some leaks? Would have to get an engine crane first though.
    • Are there any indicators that the vehicle is in limp mode?  Any dash light, or something.  Or is it just lack of acceleration?
×
×
  • Create New...