Jump to content
SAU Community

Drift Damage - Need Help

Iron-Bound

By Iron-Bound,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Iron-Bound Apprentice

Iron-Bound

Posted
Posted

About 6 weeks back i crashed my car in the wet drifting (yes i was being an idiot) hit a wall and damaged the front end of my R34 4 door.

destroyed the Front bar down to the Radiator and bent the ends of the chassis rails on the rad support. I've taken the damaged parts off just gotta take the next step.

just needs some suggestions on panel beaters in the South Eastern Melbourne area and/or the cost to unpick the rad support/MIG a new one on and JIG the rails straight.

also does anyone know if the power brace of the r34 is inter-changeable with r33 ones?

post-70299-1276577355_thumb.jpg

post-70299-1276577386_thumb.jpg

post-70299-1276577418_thumb.jpg

post-70299-1276577511_thumb.jpg

post-70299-1276577540_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324938-drift-damage-need-help/
Share on other sites
GBLOCK Collaborator

GBLOCK

Posted
Posted

You may want to take it to a repairer with access to a computerised jig (e.g. Car-o-liner) to see if it is repairable. I'm not sure of any repairers with one in the South East, but if you're willing to get the car to the Northern Suburbs shoot me off a PM I know of a shop that may be able to help you :glare:

KURAUN Grand Master

KURAUN

Posted
Posted
About 6 weeks back i crashed my car in the wet drifting (yes i was being an idiot) hit a wall and damaged the front end of my R34 4 door.

destroyed the Front bar down to the Radiator and bent the ends of the chassis rails on the rad support. I've taken the damaged parts off just gotta take the next step.

just needs some suggestions on panel beaters in the South Eastern Melbourne area and/or the cost to unpick the rad support/MIG a new one on and JIG the rails straight.

also does anyone know if the power brace of the r34 is inter-changeable with r33 ones?

has the car been classed as a write off?

cause itll need a VIV cert to get back on the road if it has

either way big hit, like others have said will need to be put on a jig

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted
You may want to take it to a repairer with access to a computerised jig (e.g. Car-o-liner) to see if it is repairable. I'm not sure of any repairers with one in the South East, but if you're willing to get the car to the Northern Suburbs shoot me off a PM I know of a shop that may be able to help you :P

Hey dude,

Mind sending me some info of said shop? I wanna get mine checked out for "straightness" and maybe pulled straight.

Gazelle D Community Regular

Gazelle D

Posted
Posted
You may want to take it to a repairer with access to a computerised jig (e.g. Car-o-liner) to see if it is repairable. I'm not sure of any repairers with one in the South East, but if you're willing to get the car to the Northern Suburbs shoot me off a PM I know of a shop that may be able to help you :P

  • oxford panels, in huntingdale (car o liner)
  • sheen's in burwood (car o liner)
  • sheen's in east Malvern (car o liner)

lots of various views on accident damage people. from your photo's you external photo's look ok, but i agree with the people saying it should be lined up and possibly heated and flat racked.

if you don't do this you only option is to replace the suspension arm's and engine cross member. Don't go welding and straightening arm's they are week for a reason ! and now will only do well as a door stop or cofee table. (contact a wrecker for parts and interchageability)

make sure you get a wheel alignment afterwards, because your tyres will shred, you car will vibrate on the freeway and your going to do alot of damage to your steering components and i tell you now that outer tie rod's are $140 each from nissan (not available aftermarket), i don't think you want to know how much a steering rack is.

good luck.

p.s ive fixed alot of cars after a wet weekend or simply silly behaviour and if you want more advice PM me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...