Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Question- does an r33 gtr water pump fit an r32 gtr, if not, what is the best way to check if the engine is a 33gtr or 32gtr?

cheers

ps.

ALL THE BS

my brother bought an r32 gtr from a mate who put a new engine in it, the wrekers told him it was a 33gtr engine.

We had to put a new water pump in it and bought one for 33gtr, low and behold it leaks.

Guy we bought it off says it must be 32 engine because water pumps are different

Water pump is the same on all RB26 engines regardless of model. If it is leaking a small dribble from the snout on the front of the pump the seal will be stuffed. I would not reccomend useing a second hand water pump as a brnd new N1 pump is only around $280.00 dollars or so

Mate there is somthing up with whoever you have bought the pump through, But can garentee that the water pump is the same on all RB26 engines regardless of model mate. Maybe the supplier marks the pumps they sell with their own part no or somthing.

Water pump is the same on all RB26 engines regardless of model. If it is leaking a small dribble from the snout on the front of the pump the seal will be stuffed. I would not reccomend useing a second hand water pump as a brnd new N1 pump is only around $280.00 dollars or so

That is incorrect.

I purchased a N1 water pump for my rb26 and it leaked due to a slot being where one of the bolt holes should have been. Which was what made it leak. I have heard of people welding the slot up and then re drilling the bolt hole.

A far as im aware, the r32 rb26 water pump is different to 33 and 34. Well thats with the N1 range anyway. I ended up selling the water pump to a member on here with a 34 and he had no problems..

yeh the dude reckons that there is a slight difference therefore r32 requires welding, well great to know $200 later in labour!

might wanna sticky this because its proven, that r32 is different from 33 or 34 waterpump therefore requires some sort of adjustment ie by welding

closed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...