Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I've been refered to RaceBrakes (9609 1101) down in Wetherill Park for performance pads for the 33gtst. 8O

Has anyone tried these pads and compared them to others? :)

I got quoted $155 for a front set with in mind 'street driving and the occasional track day' which is pretty reasonable. :P

They gave me identical specs as Green Stuff, 650 degrees, low dust etc and they are a little cheaper. :twisted:

Specs are one thing, performance is another so what do you guys think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325-racebrake-pads-how-do-they-rate/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Got a set on my car and their better than the EBC Green stuff on the track. They are harsh on the rotors I must say. Also a fair amount of dust too. But I love them. Won't forgive EBC cause they failed me on the track after one session and paying so much for a pair. :evil:

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest GregGTR

I had racebrakes Street/Race compound.... and they were SH*T, I went through a set in 10 laps of Sandown, there was a huge amount of brake fade, they were spongy.... Over all they were bad!!! My previous set (Jap Brand ????) was awesome, so I know its not the car's fault.....Sorry to break the bad news to you mate....

Plus they are noisy.....

G.

Originally posted by Silver-Arrowz

Won't forgive EBC cause they failed me on the track after one session and paying so much for a pair.  :evil:

You can't expect too much from the EBC Greens' as they're not really designed for track use, they're more of an upgrade from the stock road pads, ie they're kind to the discs but provide improved road braking performance.

EBC Red' / Yellow' or Blue' are more suitable for track use.

Originally posted by whatsisname

You can't expect too much from the EBC Greens' as they're not really designed for track use, they're more of an upgrade from the stock road pads, ie they're kind to the discs but provide improved road braking performance.  

EBC Red' / Yellow' or Blue' are more suitable for track use.

Yep your on the money they buddy,,,,you guy's running track days should bed in some reds or better and only use them on the track. It's bloody easy to change them there....You gotta do a lap or 2 to warm everything up anyway.

I brought the EBC from Croydon Austosports. They told me that the green stuff was good enough for the track. I can't remember but some other dealer also said they were great. Anyway, I told them maybe I should go the red stuff, but they assured me green was good enough for a few sprints around the track. Yes I did warm them up properly and they felt great for a while until they faded and never came back.

The pads now are just about to go so next I'll try a set of Endless, the $500 ones, and see how they go.

For the money you pay for the Race brakes ones, their pretty good. About $150 I think.

Originally posted by Silver-Arrowz

I brought the EBC from Croydon Austosports. They told me that the green stuff was good enough for the track. I can't remember but some other dealer also said they were great. Anyway, I told them maybe I should go the red stuff, but they assured me green was good enough for a few sprints around the track. Yes I did warm them up properly and they felt great for a while until they faded and never came back.

On the EBC web site, & if you speak to EBC on the phone, the Greens' are recommended for road use. Why CAS & others told you otherwise is anyones guess?

Here's the info on the Greens' from www.ebcbrakes.com.au

This pad features a high Kevlar content formulation resulting in an ultra high performance "road pad" which is extremely kind to discs. With a friction so-efficient of around 0.5 and a high resistance to brake fade (650ºC) this pad is a superb upgrade for high performance street cars, high speed freeway use and consecutive heavy braking. If you are experiencing brake fade with your heavily loaded 4x4 or towing vehicle, you should be using Greenstuff!
Originally posted by ONARUN

I've got endless. They squeel like nothing I've heard before (ask anyone that's met me) but they do the job well. It sometimes feels like they won't but if I get on the anchor real hard they perform.

i think i spoke too soon. was on the old road today and one of my pads fell off! this doesn't take anything away from the performance though

Interesting comment from the website that they are "kind on discs".

They gouged mine quite badly and they required a heap of grinding when the pads were replaced.

I've gone back to Bendix Ultimate - I want something quiet for the road that can also be used on the track - these fit the bill. The green stuff really faded after a few hard laps.

I went straight from Ultimates to Green stuff, and found the Ultimates to fade much less. Also, as per previous post, the green stuff were pretty rough on the discs.

Both were regularly thrashed on both road and track.

im using kemtech metals on the front and standard pads on the rear as they dont ever over heat

iv been to wakefield twice and never had a problem and done 40,000ks aswell no problems and not rough on the discs either

by the way i drive an auto and its a little harder on brakes than a manual

the only problem iv had was boiling brake fluid so i changed it to motul high temp fluid and i havent had any fade since

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
    • I should video mine, will prob do it tomorrow    Between 1st and 3rd, you could fit another two gears. That is how loose and wobbly it is   horrible:(
×
×
  • Create New...