Why My Rings Failed?

[Tangles]

With a thicker head gasket, you may have been ok.

my rb25 has the head all done, 250rwkw with gt3076r-IW through the auto Stagea.

same track day I overheated (badly) the engine whilst cutting a dozen hot laps a cars length behind a white r33 - just couldnt get around; damned Whale! had NO fresh air for 10mins

luckily my engine is ok. was real worried Id cooked something, but thicker headgaskets seam to be necessary on rb25's being tracked with 2.5x original power levels.

[rad100]

yeh im putting it down to pump also...

new bosch will be installed..

i will be trying to do things once and do them right with the build..

[James_03]

With a thicker head gasket, you may have been ok.

my rb25 has the head all done, 250rwkw with gt3076r-IW through the auto Stagea.

same track day I overheated (badly) the engine whilst cutting a dozen hot laps a cars length behind a white r33 - just couldnt get around; damned Whale! had NO fresh air for 10mins

luckily my engine is ok. was real worried Id cooked something, but thicker headgaskets seam to be necessary on rb25's being tracked with 2.5x original power levels.

Sorry but this had nothing to do with head gasket, and I don't even know where to begin with the comment about running a thicker gasket for 2.5x the original power of a motor.

You can't be serious.

*insert mega roll eyes*

[Tangles]

very serious.

[GTScotT]

Sorry but this had nothing to do with head gasket, and I don't even know where to begin with the comment about running a thicker gasket for 2.5x the original power of a motor.

You can't be serious.

*insert mega roll eyes*

Although I am on the same page with you, running a thicker head gasket is also decomping the motor. Which, dependant on tune state, can drop combustion temps.

I dont however think it helped tangles not blow his motor However it may have helped rad's motor last longer, which is also acheivable with less boost or timing or perhaps more fuel.

Again if the motor had a hard life before meeting Sir Rad32, knight of the land of busted RB25, OR if the fuel pump had died or anything else... All theories would be null and void anyhow.

6 of one half a dozen of the other. Rebuild, recheck, retune. (re check all aspects INCL fuel system).

Also, what sort of quality is your intercooler? Ever measured charge temps before the throttle?

[Adriano]

Tend to agree, a thicker headgasket will just mask a bad tune by preventing excessive timing causing detonation, however it will also decrease power all things being equal

[R31Nismoid]

^ also agree, cannot see headgasket having a major impact at all especially in Tangles story above - That was just lady luck & probably a conservative tune that lead to nothing being damaged...

Not particularly much to do with the H/G itself. Nor is it possible to say a thicker H/G would/could have saved the OP's motor in this instance - too many factors.

[SimonR32]

had your injectors flow tested?

[rad100]

yep they were new items from ceffie!

[VB-]

just a note for a couple of guys on the first page. ring lands and rings are different things.

if ring lands (pistons) are rooted then i'd say its tune related (detonation). if its just the rings themselves i'd guess they lost oil for a bit. sounds like it happened over a fairly short time though, so most likely det/ring land fail

[ovrtym33]

yep id have to agree that it was the tuner

so taking it to boost worx was ya 1st mistake

they tend to tune to the very limits of ya engine so that u get a high power reading and the customer walks away with a smile on their face, even tho ya car is running on the border of major detonation everytime u boost it

trust me i have 1st hand experience of how they tune, after spending big $$$$ with them i had to keep taking the car back repeatedly to get timing taken out, then they blew my engine on the dyno by leaning the car out and blowing piston 6 ring lands tryn to fix their problems

did u ever notice the engine warning light come on??

or get a print out of air/fuel ratios when u got ya dyno print out??

and get rid of that gtr fuel pump

[rad100]

actually didnt get afr..

and the engine light didnt come on from what i saw.. but its hard to see it the track

and the gtr pump will be replaced!

[r33_racer]

So now that everyone has speculated the cause of your motors comp loss, what are your plans for this new enigne?

Get to the exciting bit already....

[MrStabby]

Don't use Motul 4100 - its a low end oil. Motul 8100 or Mobil 1 0W-40 as a minimum. If you want a properly tough 40 weight then its liquid gold like 300V or something from Redline.

[WYTSKY]

Don't use Motul 4100 - its a low end oil. Motul 8100 or Mobil 1 0W-40 as a minimum. If you want a properly tough 40 weight then its liquid gold like 300V or something from Redline.

Is this true? because thats normally my first choice.

I have tried a few others ie smurfs blood etc... but the motor seems to like motul.

I replace my oil every 3-5,000 depending if i have a bit of spare cash to do it earlier, but it is never later then 5,000 without a doubt. The oil you are saying as a minimum is fairly costly for me to at that rate...

Sorry.. not hijacking thread, genuinely interested and don't want anything like whats happend to the op happening to me.. especially with my high comp stock motor.

Also.. I always try to stay around the 10-40 range.. never tried 0-40 etc... good? bad?

[Munkyb0y]

4100 is a semi synth. 8100 is full synth. 300v better still.

Edited June 16, 2010 by Munkyb0y

[KiwiRS4T]

I use Castrol Edge 10w -60. May use Motul 300v in my new engine. If you use a high quality synthetic oil like Motul 300v there is no need to change it every 5000k. Once a year should be plenty. This is not just a makers claim - some guys are having their oil tested and using it longer [i would be interested in seeing the results of these tests if anyone wants to share!]

[r33_racer]

lol running the most expensive oil on the market isnt going to save your engine if the same thing happens to your motor that did the op.

You guys waste your money on top end oils for low power street cars.... For the last three years I thrashed my road car and it only got whatever oil was lying around about once a year. When I stripped it not long ago, the bearings, crank and bores were perfect, the whole bottom end was sweet. A 250rwkw(+-50kw) engine doesnt need 300v for road duties, hell it doesnt even need it for race duties, a regular semi syn will work just fine. If i bought the 300V, which we did use in our race car many years ago, shit, I wouldnt change it for atleast a year if not more. Just change the filter once every 6 months with a small top up.

Whats important is not over heating the engine and cooking the rings/blowing a headgasket and NOT cooking the oil. If temperatures are kept in check any half decent oil will last a long time.

Ive always wondered how do people figure their car/engine likes a certain oil? Did they send off samples of every oil they have tried and found that X oil has lasted the longest in their motor??? or is it just their own personal preference?

[Adriano]

No micheal, they obviously back to back dyno pull different oils to see what makes the most power

Edited June 16, 2010 by Adriano

[r33_racer]

lol! ah if only. I was hoping someone may have had various oils tested and found out something others didnt know.

Funny you should joke about that, as im sure I read an article somewhere about some oil that came out a couple of years ago that gave a 10hp increase from just a straight oil change...back to back dyno runs. Though it was on a bommodore.

Reread what i wrote this morning. My apologies as it seems to come across a little aggressively. Blame it on being half asleep.

Edited June 16, 2010 by r33_racer