Why My Rings Failed?

[MrStabby]

lol running the most expensive oil on the market isnt going to save your engine if the same thing happens to your motor that did the op.

Until the motor is stripped and the failure mode identified, you cant make that call.

You guys waste your money on top end oils for low power street cars.... For the last three years I thrashed my road car and it only got whatever oil was lying around about once a year. When I stripped it not long ago, the bearings, crank and bores were perfect, the whole bottom end was sweet. A 250rwkw(+-50kw) engine doesnt need 300v for road duties, hell it doesnt even need it for race duties, a regular semi syn will work just fine.

Remember he's tracking his car, so this anecdote is not that useful as track work is much harder on the engine that street work.

You could make the same argument against having a wideband to monitor AFR and an oil pressure gauge, which for most people are a complete waste of time and will not make any difference. I like to think more about risk mitigation and cost benefit. Midrange oils like 8100 or Mobil 1 are pretty cheap, say $65 for 5 liters and have a decent HTHS. Since the OP is getting a rebuild there's more investment to protect, and IMO running a low end oil is false economy. For context, he'll spend about $1000 on petrol during the life of that $65 oil change.

However, I agree 300V is a wank on a street car (I shouldnt have mentioned it), as is 3000kms oil changes. If you've spent $25K on a race motor, its a different story.

[r33_racer]

I think its quite safe to assume that it is the ring lands that are wrecked and hence the top ring isnt sealing and hes getting all that comp loss and blow by. Nothing is 100% positive until its inspected. I can agree with that bit. Soon enough im sure he will be able to inform us of what actually happened.

Yeh not all of what i was saying was totally pointed towards the OP sorry. I was covering the range of other posts. Im slack when it comes to being specific to everyone/everything.

I still maintain that if temps are kept in check, you dont need a super duper oil. Sure if you had crappy thermal management then yes I would be covering my ass with top notch synthetic oil. But if your doing track work often then it would be silly to not make sure your water and oil cooling systems were spec'd accordingly.

Weve used a few different oils in our race car over the last 5 years including 300v and weve sent off samples of the various oils weve used and even the more common types(castrol, mobil 1) showed after several dyno sessions and race meets that the it was still in top condition. Much better then expected.

My point being that most people go overboard unnecessarily quite often when it comes to oils.

But each to their own

[Tangles]

Im using Royal Purple full syn oil, used to use Motul 4100 turbolite on 180,190,200,210kw tunes.

Nothing wrong with Boostworx, I use and recommend them.

re headgasket. No Im not saying it saved my engine, nothing needed saving!

by having a thick multi-layered steal head gasket over the standard item (with all else exact same specs for the 280kw tune) you allow more room/area for when the detonation occurs

a stock engine, potentially tired with a used/tiring gtr pump being tracked with 280rwkw will detonate to some degree large or small at some point on the day, take that as a given.

so by having more room/area for the explosion to dissipate you have less damage on the pistons/head & bore.

[zebra]

but to have 280rwkw on the OPs setup it would need more boost, so the cylinder pressures would be the same.

[rad100]

yeh was 280rwkw on 16psi..

when i picked the car up after install of plazmaman rb26 rocker covers with mines baffles (wednesday) on idle there was smoke easily visable from the catch can breather..

even on slight free rev the smoke got heavy!

i have nothing against the workshop, so dont take anything from the names that have been bought up..

ill be taking all your info in with the build re:oils and will be running a motul 8100 min!

[rad100]

just ripped my head off...

top of the pistons look good... clean on intake side and black on exhaust side..

the head gasket looked good too..

just oily..

when i get time ill drop the pistons out from the sump..

[r33_racer]

Your doing this with engine out of car right? Or you currently only have the head off in the car?

Pistons and rods only go in/out from top of block. Unless thats what you meant, but had to crack open sump first to drop the caps off??

[rad100]

no i removed the head in the car so i could send that of for the build..

and ill slowly remove the bottom end as i have another one which is being built..

ill fiddle more tomorrow..

but my main goal was to remove the head to send it off!

[r33_racer]

Cool beans!

Any details on this bottom end yet?

[rad100]

not yet..

should know in a week!

[rad100]

my engine after today LOL

[soturi]

If you don't mind me asking, what was your reason for the 26 covers + mines baffles? My mates have suggested i do the same to my 25 as they gave me a set of covers minus the baffles...are the baffles expensive?

[rad100]

i got them to control oil passing out the rocker cover breathers...

and the baffles can only be fitted to rb26 cover..

they were $250 from CRD!

[rad100]

instead of starting another thread,

have some Q's....

im gonna remove my turbosmart bov from the cooler pipe coz 1- its gay and 2- sounds like shit..

im gonna move my AFM to the cooler pipe just infront of the throttle body approx 30cms away..

im gonna run a 4inch intake pipe with a pod filter..

now i dont really want this for the flutter or anything except to have a nice clean intake that doesnt reduce for afm..

this wont damage my turbo will it? (3076r)

is there anyway of plumbing the stock bov in or should i just leave the turbosmart even if its gay to save the turbo?

cheers!

[rad100]

...

[rad100]

also herd that under boost the afm can break?

do they do map sensors for nistunes? that may be better!?

[zebra]

Just leave the afm where it is

[rad100]

and have it sitting inside the 4" intake? LOL

plus having a forward facing plenum, its stalling on off throttle due to atmo bov!

[zebra]

Well rather than F about moving AFM's and what not, sell your current turbo smart BOV and buy a plumback one, than remove the hotwire and electronics box from the afm and stick it in your 4" intake pipe and give it a quick retune.

[Simon-S14]

nothing wrong with moving AFM to the pressure side. invest in a brand new Z32 afm (about 300) and then run that. no need to hack it apart either. ive run 1.4 bar thro mine for many track events and it loves it. prob wont last 15/20 years like they would normally but so far so good. advantages are no stalling when backing off and clutch in, 4 inch intake can be used and a sharper throttle response.