Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Remove This?

SiNNO

By SiNNO,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

SiNNO Experienced

SiNNO

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I'm in the middle of changing my spark plugs on my rb25de.

Anyone got any ideas I can try to take this rubber tube off? I already removed the clamps and used brute force but the thing won't budge.

It's the last thing I need to remove to be able to get to the coil pack cover :blink:

14062010495.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325007-how-to-remove-this/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

these....are one of the essential tools for a skyline owner!

vh479.jpg

if not....you need to break the seal between the hose and the metal.

carefully work the smallest bladed screwdriver you have between the hose and the pipe (don't stab the rubber, go under it). if you can work the screwdriver right around the pipe the hose will come straight off.

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

Another good trick is once you have the tip of the screw driver under the rubber and can prise it up spray some WD40 into the opening. This will help to soften the hose and allow you to get the screw driver in further to brake the seal between the hose and the pipe.

I would not put hot water anywhere near this area as it would run down over the coilpacks and the spark plugs.

tiberis Enthusiast

tiberis

Posted
Posted

give it a twist.

seriously, it's the same theory as the other techniques, you just need to break the bond between rubber and metal, sometimes rotating the hose helps break the contact first, then you just pull.

might be a bit hard if the hose is really stiff, but it's helped me many times over the years.

plus it also helps for putting hoses on.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
these....are one of the essential tools for a skyline owner!

vh479.jpg

if not....you need to break the seal between the hose and the metal.

carefully work the smallest bladed screwdriver you have between the hose and the pipe (don't stab the rubber, go under it). if you can work the screwdriver right around the pipe the hose will come straight off.

i have these - these are awesome

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)
+1 for giving it a twist, or getting some of those hose pliers. or get the biggest flat screwdriver you have and wedge it between the steel piece and the hose and try and lever it off (basically how the hose pliers would work)

this is the way i always deal with stuck hoses.

Edited by Munkyb0y
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

thanks mate, i need a fitting like that... if u can see in my sig photo, the rocker cover fitting on my rocker cover points upwards as they do standard and it makes my setup look a bit average.

Dont suppose anyone has one they want to sell to me?

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted
Another good trick is once you have the tip of the screw driver under the rubber and can prise it up spray some WD40 into the opening. This will help to soften the hose and allow you to get the screw driver in further to brake the seal between the hose and the pipe.

I would not put hot water anywhere near this area as it would run down over the coilpacks and the spark plugs.

So how do you wash your engine...? I use a hose...

hose pliers! and they have saved my knuckles more damage than any other tool I own

i really need to start that...."cool tools for skylines thread"....there's more where they came from!

+1 for cool tools thread..Its a great idea... :D

Got the hose off using a hair dryer, worked like a charm :(

Would've used hose pliers but couldn't find any today. :(

Bunnings and Supercheap didn't have them

I also tried to buy some today ,bursons said no...:(

I was using a hair dryer to dry paint the other day when i thought of it. .Hadnt actually tried it yet but glad it worked for you..

GF knows if she cant find her hair dryer its usually in the shed...lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lithium
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Lithium · Posted

      To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • Lithium
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Lithium · Posted

      Outstanding!
    • BaronOBeefdip
      Baron's R34 GT-R build thread - car in Japan for 5 years -_-

      By BaronOBeefdip · Posted

      I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • TurboTapin
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • Murray_Calavera
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
×
×
  • Create New...