Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Happy with how the battery adaptor worked out.

Not as slim as the Milwaukee but cheaper and still going to get in more places than the drill I was using plus now I can grab other cheapie Ryobi skins when I need a sometimes tool and keep using the better AEG batteries.

If I find the battery bulk holding me back on the regular I will grab the Milwaukee and just bite the bullet on having 2 different sets of batteries/chargers (a pet hate).

See how we go.

Next on the list is a bigger shed at the new place with room for a proper size hoist.



20180906_213552.jpg

  On 06/09/2018 at 11:43 AM, ActionDan said:

Happy with how the battery adaptor worked out.

Not as slim as the Milwaukee but cheaper and still going to get in more places than the drill I was using plus now I can grab other cheapie Ryobi skins when I need a sometimes tool and keep using the better AEG batteries.

If I find the battery bulk holding me back on the regular I will grab the Milwaukee and just bite the bullet on having 2 different sets of batteries/chargers (a pet hate).

See how we go.

Next on the list is a bigger shed at the new place with room for a proper size hoist.



20180906_213552.jpg

Expand  

Where did you get the battery adaptor from Dan?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Been using this one a lot lately -it's a little 12v Lithium impact. 85 lb.ft I think? Bought from http://transquip.com.au/products/cp8818-chicago-pneumatic-compact-1-4-impact-driver.html as well as a set of CP 1/4" impact sockets. Saves a bucket load of time.  

cp188.png

  • 5 months later...

Ended up getting the Milwaukee 3/8 elec ratchet same as fatz, his battery calcs were slightly off.

2ah does all day and a 6ah does a week 

its good shit, can't believe i went without for so long

  • Like 1

spacer.png

 

Also purchased the 3/8 stubby impact gun, its fking tiny and removes basically anything with ease. 250ft/lb (330nM)

fits in almost every space and has an excellent auto-shut off mode where it stops driving once it detects the bolt getting firm. then just give it another squeeze and it will do the bolt up in small steps until its tight. Stops you from just sending a lil 10mm bolt into alloy and stripping it. Usually one big squeeze to send it most of the way, then 2 or 3 squeezes and its done up tight.

Used it on the weekend at a 3 day drift event to change wheels. changed probably 16-18 wheels over 3 days using only a 2ah battery and still has 1/3 battery life left. also does the nuts up tight enough on setting 3 you don;t even need to go over them with a breaker bar.

im in love.

Man these small Milwaukee tools are looking very tempting!

I've had good success with the cheapo Ryboi ratchet, haven't had any issues fitting it in places yet but I've only been on the Mazda and the Landcruiser and haven't had to squeeze it in anywhere yet. 

 

  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i have R34 with factory small box and now RB25DET NEO swapoed and iam planning to upgrade to big box.  So i would be good as long as i do not change diff? 
    • Based off what you’ve said here, I think I’ve figured out a good bit of what I’ve done wrong -  So on the line going from the PCV valve to carbon canister, there’s a T joint that is pretty much right next to that lower port - I hadn’t noticed that the hose in the diagram was curved to attach onto the carb, so I was putting that line for the lower port onto the PCV line / carbon canister line instead. I’m going to have a flick through the manual again tomorrow and should hopefully find a diagram that’ll show me where that T joint should be connected to. Timing also 100% needs to be sorted out as well, should be able to tackle that tomorrow as well. Definitely feel like I should be on the right track now though. 
    • The screw is for idle (pilot circuit) mixture adjustment. Else, I'm confused ~ the diagram shows 2 carby ports, and the intake manifold port, but you're suggesting the "2nd port on the back of the carb that isn’t mentioned in the diagrams" ...yet, both carby ports are shown...que?... ...in any event, that port should be connected, but if not (like it is now), it's unlikely to cause a backfire out the carby (it would introduce false air and give you a fast/lean idle) ...sounds more like timing issues/spark plug wire routing responsible for the backfiring.    
    • That's fair, I can see both points. I get enthusiastic when I see the FS section has a new post and want to see what interesting thing someone is selling. Then I get deflated it's a bump of a 10 year old post. Ha ha
×
×
  • Create New...