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i take it its a normal bolt? may have to put a tight ring type spanner on it and give it a hit with a hammer to loosen....put some heat on it may make it easier... if its getin rounded maybe take to a mechanic put the car on the hoist more leverage/access should loosing up no probs...

Edited by rgr34
you can fill through the shifter, take the circlip out and fill through there

only down side is that you have to know exactly how much your putting in

because otherwise you pour oil into the car?

thanks for the response. what is the circlip?

u have no idea mate! he means if u fill it by removing the shifter from the top u need to know how much fluid u want to add as not to overfill it.. the filler plug is the level you want to fill it to not the top of the where the shifter is! .....

Edited by rgr34
u have no idea mate! he means if u fill it by removing the shifter from the top u need to know how much fluid u want to add as not to overfill it.. the filler plug is the level you want to fill it to not the top of the where the shifter is! .....

bit harsh mate coming from someone who has clearly never seen a gearbox filler plug or drain plug. I could have said you clearly have no idea since you advised him to put a ring spanner on a plug that has a metric square drive female hole on it. I'd like to see how that works. but I'm far too polite for that and would have just corrected the completely useless info you posted.

his concern about ending up with gearbox oil in the car is quite valid as if you're not careful that's what's going to happen. overfilling the box of course is not ideal but the excess will mostly just end up getting pushed out through the breather.

to the original poster. many people open the filler and drain plugs just using a sockets square drive end. the problem is they are not exactly the right size hence the plugs get a bit stuffed. socket drive ends are imperial but there is actually a kit you can buy of the right size metric square drivers to use. most good skyline workshops should have a set. you may find with the right tool it can come out. heat it with an oxy torch first (if you can safely get on in there) and give that a try. if that fails then use the fill through the shifter method. look for a guide on installing short shifters as that will show you how to remove/replace the shifter.

look for a guide on installing short shifters as that will show you how to remove/replace the shifter.

have been doing so this morning, just undid the circlip.

the engineering place i spoke to suggested similar things, ie: heating, but strongly recommended i find a new plug as they may destroy the old one in the process.

thanks for your help, now to get millions of sheets and towels to line the car haha

hey, so i took it all off but the drain plug is too tight as well. i know now that i was using a 1/2" square bolt instead of a 13mm one so i'll try to track one down and "gently" persuade it in if the bolts aren't oo mangled. from the diy i read the guy said they came undone really easily, oh well.

anyways, how do i tell the difference between the brake master cylinder and the clutch master cylinder? i've found one and a slave but not sure which one. sorry for the newbie question...

brake master is on the end of the brake booster (massive black disk thingo) and has 2 lines coming out of it for abs

clutch master is the little one next to it with only 1 line

your clutch slave is on the side of the gear box

your 4 brakes are essentially your brake slave cylinders

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