Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Boost Line Through Firewall (wtf Where & How)

robjay
 Share

Recommended Posts

robjay Enthusiast

robjay

Posted
Posted

Hi ...

simple and strainght to the point how on the heck do you feed a boost line through the firewall on an r34

it is hell hard, tried to dismantle fuse box and bits n pices there to try and find a way.. no sir, its just hard.

tried to poke through supporting wires/ coat hanger through holes that looked like they might go through to the other side.

good news... ran the line via the left drivers pillar under bonnet for now. set up with a manual bleed valve set to 10psi the car drives noticeably harder.

stuffed up a bit tho... spiked n overboosted past 15 psi while seting up fark!!!! had audiable pinging... but luckily nothing terminal..

So is there way a sure and proven way to run a damn boost line through firewall?

I can now see the value of having an electronic boost controller.... am I right in saying that ebc could keep boost spikes and creep to a minimal level and this way i could have a reliable 14psi? or is this not recommended on a standard r34 turbo - if so what is a safe limit.

I have tried 13psi but the thing spikes dangerously, even at 12 - spikes out to 14 but 10psi seems to limit spikes to about 11.5 which I'm happy with for now.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

find one of the large rubber grommets that the wiring goes through and cut a small hole in it and force the hose through. you can either do it on the passenger side where the wiring harness goes through the firewall, or there is somewhere on the drivers side near where the steering goes through i think (been ages since i saw under the bonnet of a skyline). i'm pretty sure i had mine going through on the drivers side in my 33.

other option is to drill a hole and get a rubber grommet to fit. it you go that way then put a bit of paint in the hole after drilling to stop it rusting.

rgr34 Proficient

rgr34

Posted
Posted

its abit of f**king around but i ran my boost gauge tubing on the drivers side... remove the kick panel where fuses are. there is a hole/grommet where the hood release goes through.. use that....once it through there u have to remove the drivers side wheel and remove the plastic inner lining, as the hole leads there. there is a hole which is located at back right corner driver side engine bay u cant miss it... if u put some wire through there it shoud come out the other side then u can feed it through.....

maddowse Proficient

maddowse

Posted
Posted

hi mate I'm running a mechanical gauge , what i did is used that plastic red spaghetti you use when you put screws into bricks , a 1 meter Length of that from bunnings works great . take the drivers side kick panel off and as said above feed the spaghetti stuff through the rubber seal that the bonnet release goes through , but for me with the R34 gtt it comes out under the bonnet on the drivers side just back from where your vacuum hose goes to the standard boost sensor.

i hope this helps good luck

robjay Enthusiast

robjay

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hi mate I'm running a mechanical gauge , what i did is used that plastic red spaghetti you use when you put screws into bricks , a 1 meter Length of that from bunnings works great . take the drivers side kick panel off and as said above feed the spaghetti stuff through the rubber seal that the bonnet release goes through , but for me with the R34 gtt it comes out under the bonnet on the drivers side just back from where your vacuum hose goes to the standard boost sensor.

i hope this helps good luck

Will try this...

Also mad82 yeh I found the rubber grommet you speaking of... but did not realise it comes out where the wheel is and taking of wheel n cover is a pain maybe too hard for at atm...

Btw.. how hard is it to replace the stock boost gauge in dash with after market.

.:: GimpS-R34 ::. Grand Master

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Posted
Posted

Easy.. But you need to replace all 3 gauges as they are one peice.. Go check that out first so you know what i mean..

I would go through the passenger side where the wiring harness goes through.. this is fairly easy and can be reached without removing anything..

  • 2 weeks later...
maddowse Proficient

maddowse

Posted
Posted
Will try this...

Also mad82 yeh I found the rubber grommet you speaking of... but did not realise it comes out where the wheel is and taking of wheel n cover is a pain maybe too hard for at atm...

Btw.. how hard is it to replace the stock boost gauge in dash with after market.

i made a tutorial for that ill post it up

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pl...ge-t311237.html

have fun ok and by the way dont cheap out on the guages im going to have to change the cheap ebay ones i put in and get two drift ones to replace but its not hard at all

the only bit i didnt do in the tutorial it putting the boost line through the firewall sorry

  • 4 months later...
PewPew Proficient

PewPew

Posted
Posted
its abit of f**king around but i ran my boost gauge tubing on the drivers side... remove the kick panel where fuses are. there is a hole/grommet where the hood release goes through.. use that....once it through there u have to remove the drivers side wheel

I just full locked to the right and it was a piece of piss ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that ne side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • 32.det
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By 32.det · Posted

      Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • GTSBoy
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Duncan
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By Duncan · Posted

      Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
    • 32.det
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By 32.det · Posted

      Hey good to see you on the forums! Haha Considering this cars past with electronic issues I am leaning towards it being a wiring fault somewhere in the engine bay. When testing the ac relay in the fuse box there was no earth trigger. I am probably going to try "bench test" the compressor by giving it direct ground and power to see if i can hear the ac clutch click otherwise I will be pretty sure I have a dead compressor. If it does work then I will be tracing some wiring it seems.
×
×
  • Create New...