Help On De+t

[mjscar]

Hey guys,

I was wondering if any of you guys who have previously done the +T conversion can help me clarify a few things. I'm currently in the process of doing the conversion but I just needed some answers in regards to the oil return line.

Initially my plan was to use a T-piece into the VCT oil return line but after doing a dummy fit, I was told, and by looking at the fact that the engine mount is in the way, that it is a prick to try and get the line from the turbo to the VCT.

So now I think the last resort is to tap into the block, however I have a few questions. What did you guys do in the regards to the metal filings? Did you take out the sump out? Is it possible to take the sump out in an R33 without lifiting the engine? or Did you take any other particular measures to get rid of the filings? or Is it pretty safe to do so without the filings having much effect?

Anyways, thanks for your time and help. I appreciate it,

Rian

[StealthX]

You definitely want to take the filings out...

I havn't done a RBDE+T conversion, but from my own conversion, and searching around, i think RBs have a oil port already on the block that's there from the turbo variants, should be able to just use that.

But if not, you'll have to drill and tap a spot ABOVE the level of oil when full, and yeah you'll have to have it up on jack stands at least, a hoist would be better, and the engine out would be even better!

It's a bit of a job, cos the sump needs to come off, and you'll need to reseal it too.

Speaking from someone who has an oil leak from the same very part were talking about, I'd recommend getting a workshop to do it for ya. That's if there isn't a pre tapped spot on the block already. Another skyliner will be able to confirm this for ya.

Good luck!

[mjscar]

Thanks for the quick reply mate, but can you clarify if I need the engine out or lifted to get the sump out? Because it seems that I could most likely get the sump out by removing the sway bar and sliding it forward, but I'm not 100% sure if it would hit the pickup while trying to remove sump.

Cheers,

Rian

[Mr Eps]

lol wtf??? engine out???

nein.

first of all how the hell did u get filings in there???

here's what i did. rip everything i needed that would be in the way - out of the way

called a pirtek / enzed guy

he fitted the lines up and everything for about 300 bucks

dont stuff around ripping out engines n stuff

mind you this was on a 2 litre not 2.5

[mjscar]

lol wtf??? engine out???

nein.

first of all how the hell did u get filings in there???

here's what i did. rip everything i needed that would be in the way - out of the way

called a pirtek / enzed guy

he fitted the lines up and everything for about 300 bucks

dont stuff around ripping out engines n stuff

mind you this was on a 2 litre not 2.5

Well if I drill a hole into the block for the oil return, wouldn't some of the filings go into the block? Mind you I will be vacumming while drilling so that the majority of the filings will be out, but wouldn't some of it still fall into the sump?

But you gave me an idea because I might get the pirtek/enzed guy to come around and see if maybe he can work out something easy to get the initial idea of having the oil return into the VCT working. Cheers.

Edited June 17, 2010 by mjscar

[Mr Eps]

dude... the oil return lines and everything are already on the block!

they're just "tapped off"

also

not that this matters if you're paranoid about it... but think about a drill... think of the "tread" pattern

the filings go "out" not "in"

just drill carefully

but yes

pay a pirtek / enzed monkey to do it. don't make your hair go grey with this crap. they supply n fit everything while you go inside n drink a pepsi max.

[Mr Eps]

ps. go to bed. an amatuer mechanic needs his sleep

also - your avatar is creepy as shit. i have re-occuring stress dreams about that sort of shit man. that's coming from a guy who's been in a chemical fire.

[mjscar]

dude... the oil return lines and everything are already on the block!

they're just "tapped off"

also

not that this matters if you're paranoid about it... but think about a drill... think of the "tread" pattern

the filings go "out" not "in"

just drill carefully

but yes

pay a pirtek / enzed monkey to do it. don't make your hair go grey with this crap. they supply n fit everything while you go inside n drink a pepsi max.

Sorry for the huge image size

BLOCK

That is the picture of my block. As you can see in the bottom left-mid, all I have is an outline of a red marking for where the stock oil return would be. If that is the meaning of "tapped off" then I'm sorry I might have misunderstood the term.

I understand that some/maybe all other RB25DE have a bung for the oil return, but that red-ish marking is all I have.

But yeh, I'll most likely end up getting the Pirtek/Enzed guy to do it. Thanks for that advice, seriously was worried for a sec because I wasn't quite sure how I should go about it.

PS: I can't sleep. Not stressed out, but I'm also not at peace with this whole thing until you made me feel warm and fuzzy lol

Ohh btw, still haven't answered my question about whether taking the sump out is possible or not in the R33 without taking out the engine. Because as turbo x-trail pointed out, I might still have to clean the sump. or did you pretty much not bother with that Mr Eps?

Edited June 17, 2010 by mjscar

[StealthX]

Sorry for the huge image size

BLOCK

That is the picture of my block. As you can see in the bottom left-mid, all I have is an outline of a red marking for where the stock oil return would be. If that is the meaning of "tapped off" then I'm sorry I might have misunderstood the term.

I understand that some/maybe all other RB25DE have a bung for the oil return, but that red-ish marking is all I have.

But yeh, I'll most likely end up getting the Pirtek/Enzed guy to do it. Thanks for that advice, seriously was worried for a sec because I wasn't quite sure how I should go about it.

PS: I can't sleep. Not stressed out, but I'm also not at peace with this whole thing until you made me feel warm and fuzzy lol

Ohh btw, still haven't answered my question about whether taking the sump out is possible or not in the R33 without taking out the engine. Because as turbo x-trail pointed out, I might still have to clean the sump. or did you pretty much not bother with that Mr Eps?

you might get away with it, but personally, I wouldn't risk it. Besides, you ought not have any filings as such in The sump, but there will def be burred edges on the hole that you'd wanna clean up, plus, tapping the hole can cause more filings too. Up to you though. If you have a decent oil filter and/or a magnetic sump plug, and providing you're careful, it migh be ok.

[N-DAWG]

Good luck finding a mechanic that would tap the block without pulling the engine out. My mechanic t-pieced the oil feed of the pressure switch iirc.. they didn't want to risk tapping the block without taking the engine out.

I'm not sure on whether you can remove the sump without the engine coming out.. i'm sure if that were possible my mechanic would have done that? I doubt there's that much difference in that respect between an R33 and R34.

From what I understood, the oil return on the R33 block had a blanking bolt and only the R34 had a provision for where it "would" be on a DET...

I THINK Dori's engine had the bolt though? Anyways, I'll leave it to a couple of the R33 guys to give their advice on how they handled the oil return on the RB25DE but it's best not to risk just tapping the block without pulling the engine.

[Mr Eps]

oh it's RB25...

i didn't know that

then i don't know in that case man, sorry!

even still - enzed guy would probably know what to do

[mjscar]

Good luck finding a mechanic that would tap the block without pulling the engine out. My mechanic t-pieced the oil feed of the pressure switch iirc.. they didn't want to risk tapping the block without taking the engine out.

I'm not sure on whether you can remove the sump without the engine coming out.. i'm sure if that were possible my mechanic would have done that? I doubt there's that much difference in that respect between an R33 and R34.

From what I understood, the oil return on the R33 block had a blanking bolt and only the R34 had a provision for where it "would" be on a DET...

I THINK Dori's engine had the bolt though? Anyways, I'll leave it to a couple of the R33 guys to give their advice on how they handled the oil return on the RB25DE but it's best not to risk just tapping the block without pulling the engine.

So if they didn't tap out your block and you didn't have the blanking bolt, what did you end up using for the oil return?

I think I'll get Pirtek to come around and see if they can sort something out with T-piecing into the VCT. I know that T-piecing into the VCT would be the most suitable solution, but I have just been told that it's a prick of a job, but doable. So since they'll be doing it, they'll probably make something custom to make it easier.

If I were to end up tapping into the engine as a last case scenario, I would definately be taking as much precaution as possible. Probably use a magnetic sump plug, magnetic oil filters (change every 500km or something for the first few weeks) and flush the engine with some shit oil and end up changing the oil every 2500km until probably 10000km or there is no longer any signs of metal. I know it ends up being pricey, but I guess it's better than taking the engine out.

[WYTSKY]

Ok, have done what your asking.... however, I dont think I am going to be the best of help....

I did not know much about my car back when it got turboed, I did some of the stuff myself, but they guys who did the oil feed/return line dont exist anymore. I dont know if they took the engine out or not to tap the lines, however I can say that I dont think they just had a simple bung in and they pulled it out.

Ill try to get some pics for you by the end of the day.

Also, my return line is not into my sump.. its at the bottom of the block.

[mjscar]

Ok, have done what your asking.... however, I dont think I am going to be the best of help....

I did not know much about my car back when it got turboed, I did some of the stuff myself, but they guys who did the oil feed/return line dont exist anymore. I dont know if they took the engine out or not to tap the lines, however I can say that I dont think they just had a simple bung in and they pulled it out.

Ill try to get some pics for you by the end of the day.

Also, my return line is not into my sump.. its at the bottom of the block.

Some pictures would be excellent mate! Would help me a ton.

Yeh I'm not going to tap into the sump, I'm tapping into the block just above the sump if I end up taking that route.

But anywho I would be really grateful if you can get the pictures!

Appeciate it.

[N-DAWG]

I'm pretty sure Dori's mechanic done the same thing as mine did... I'll ask him and hopefully that will help for you.

[N-DAWG]

Quoting Dori:

oil feed; ran a braided line to oil pressure side & tee'd into that

oil return: on the r34 de, theres blank mark but with r33 there shud be a bolt which u can remove.

however on the r34 de theres the vct return which is a blanking bolt so i used that.

*end quote*

That's for an R34 but may be similar?

[StealthX]

Good luck finding a mechanic that would tap the block without pulling the engine out. My mechanic t-pieced the oil feed of the pressure switch iirc.. they didn't want to risk tapping the block without taking the engine out.

He's talking about oil drain mate, not feed.'

You shouldn't need to take the engine out unless there's something in the way. Just need the sump pan off then drill/tap/de-burr/clean away. seal it back up and fill him back up with oil.

[N-DAWG]

I see.. I'll be honest when it comes to oil feeds/drains etc.. i'm not so knowledgeable, pretty much relying on what I can recall from my conversion.

ps. nice X-Trail, the build link in your sig doesn't seem to be working though

[mjscar]

Quoting Dori:

oil feed; ran a braided line to oil pressure side & tee'd into that

oil return: on the r34 de, theres blank mark but with r33 there shud be a bolt which u can remove.

however on the r34 de theres the vct return which is a blanking bolt so i used that.

*end quote*

That's for an R34 but may be similar?

Yeh for the oil pressure I'm pretty set: T-piece into the oil pressure sensor and run a braided line from that, behind the block, and to the turbo.

As for the VCT, that's interesting that the R34 have a blanking bolt instead. Doesn't it run VCT anymore or something? But it's good to know that you guys have had no problem with going into the VCT.

He's talking about oil drain mate, not feed.'

You shouldn't need to take the engine out unless there's something in the way. Just need the sump pan off then drill/tap/de-burr/clean away. seal it back up and fill him back up with oil.

The problem on a skyline is that the sump is a one piece, ie there is no sump pan per se. Thus, I've been told, it makes it impossible to try to remove the sump without taking out the engine because the oil pickup gets in the way. Unless I want to lift the engine a few cms and probably can just make it, but I don't know how much piping and shit I have to take off.

But what do you guys think about my earlier plan to try and get the filing out by other means such as magnetic oil filters with more frequent change, magnetic sump plug, and more frequent oil change? Do you rkon that will stop all the filing from getting through or am I missing something important?

Edited June 18, 2010 by mjscar

[WYTSKY]

Hey, just got home, had an insane day of work....like 6 hours more then I planned, really sorry, will try my best to get some done this wkend.