Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i have an r34 GTT, and about an hour ago, i was braking, and the car really felt like it was shaking. i took my hands off the wheel doing about 60 and tried again, and the wheel was shaking like crazy. When i rolling about 20, slow down then jump on the pedal, the sound it makes is like my front bumper is scraping the ground, which i know for a fact is not.

i have checked the front and back pads, both fine, checked brake fluid, fine. checked my abs fuses, both fine.

Anyone able to help me here as why its doing this, cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325422-car-shakes-when-i-brake/
Share on other sites

my brother in laws 32 did that it was something with the front suspension get it checked at pedders its like 29 bucks to check.. if it feels like the whole car is shaking then i think thats the prob.. hope this helps

took the wheel off, rotors look fine as a mate said aswell. He took it for a spin and obviously it didnt happen.

He said the fluid may have got so hot and boiled. Has this ever happened to anybody????

is it auto??

Our car used to do it,mainly when going down big hills, where brakes are working hard.

happens alot with autos,Falcodores owners are constantly changing discs but the Rotors arent actually warped, but residue from pads gets baked on to the rotors..You know when u sit at the lights with brakes on, pads are really hot..Apparently some good metallic pads and hard braking can clean it off, but i havent tried it...

Either way get them machined..

no need to take discs off, you can get them machined on car..Any brake place even kmart tyre an auto can do it ,about 110$

Edited by Arthur T3
brake and shake baby - had to be said

hahaha nice.

It has stopped the shaking now, well, the day after anyways, so now i dont know about the rotors anymore??

Its back to normal and i havnt changed anything.

is it auto??

Our car used to do it,mainly when going down big hills, where brakes are working hard.

happens alot with autos,Falcodores owners are constantly changing discs but the Rotors arent actually warped, but residue from pads gets baked on to the rotors..You know when u sit at the lights with brakes on, pads are really hot..Apparently some good metallic pads and hard braking can clean it off, but i havent tried it...

Either way get them machined..

no need to take discs off, you can get them machined on car..Any brake place even kmart tyre an auto can do it ,about 110$

Nah mate its a manual.

hahaha nice.

It has stopped the shaking now, well, the day after anyways, so now i dont know about the rotors anymore??

Its back to normal and i havnt changed anything.

My money would still be on rotors. Could have been glazed, but I would still say they are warped...

But also check your tyre pressures. Happened to me on the weekend, felt like something was very very wrong, like the wheels were about to fall off, steering wheel shaking violently, car wasn't handling properly... Checked the tyre pressures the next day, and they had dropped quite low. Pumped em up to 38psi and that fixed all the problems. I doubt you are experiencing the same thing because my problems weren't while I was braking, more while I was cornering. But worth a go anyway.

Edited by Hanaldo
Falcodores owners are constantly changing discs but the Rotors arent actually warped, but residue from pads gets baked on to the rotors..

That's actually the cause of 99.9% of shudder. It's called DTV (disc thickness variation) and is caused by cheap pads, and/or excessive float in wheel bearings... which leads to the pad material being laid down unevenly.

It's VERY VERY rare that rotors actually warp. It simply doesn't happen, even on race cars. Even rally car that get them glowing hot then go through water spashes don't 'warp' rotors. It doesn't happen. It will be DTV. Machining them will fix the problem, but it often doesn't curing the underlying problem.

Commodores are really bad for shudder, and it's always excessive float in the bearings, which starts the problem, then the pad material being laid down unevenly on the rotor because it's not rotating square finishes it....

Some light reading by car engineer legend Carrol Smith:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
    • I'm a bit stuck with this one fellas, I recently decided to undertake a turbo conversion on my GTS-4, ended up pulling the motor to replace all the seals and do an mls head gasket and arp head studs while I was at it. Everything has gone according to plan, no oil or coolant leaks, compression checked out, and decided to give it a test before I book it in for a tune As it stands right now, the turbo only has oil lines plumbed so that I don't put boost into my untuned engine, and I'm using the factory GTS-T crossover pipe with a maf and poddy as a temporary intake. The car starts with relative ease and idles amazingly, however as the title suggests it really doesn't want to rev up, runs very smooth but almost feels choked out and unresponsive to the throttle, almost like it's running lean or something? I've triple checked my vacuum lines and timing with a timing light, injectors haven't been touched as of yet to avoid flooding the engine and worked perfectly beforehand, new plugs and coilpacks, I've even unbolted the cat just to see if it spontaneously collapsed, no dice The car currently has a nistune r32 gtst ecu installed so I have no way to check for fault codes. At this point I'm a bit stumped. Is this normal behaviour for a car with a turbo bolted onto the exhaust going nowhere? I'd imagine the turbo wouldn't cause this much restriction in the exhaust without the boost going through the intake. Any ideas? If necessary I can link a video of how it responds to full throttle while in neutral.  
    • Insert tab A into slot B?
    • Instructions seem simple enough to understand.....
×
×
  • Create New...