Snapped Accelerator Pedal Mount

[jrm]

Hey all,

Noticed my accelerator pedal last week was loose - checked it out, top spot weld at the pivot/spring was snapped. Last night I was out driving, and the bottom point snapped - making driving rather difficult. This has obviously become kinda urgent to fix now.

A search of the forums shows searched thread, but no real resolution that I'm happy with. I guess what I need to do is find someone who's willing to weld this as soon as possible. Anyone have any suggestions on someone who might do this? Given it's such a bitch to get in there, and the amount of carpetting, sound deadening - I can't imagine it's going to be an easy fix - especially the fire risk from welding. Is there anyone here who's capable of doing the welding required maybe? (I'm happy to do any prep work about taking the carpetting, etc out)

Anyway, any suggestions on fixes (preferably today, or at least this weekend) would be great.

[chef_stagea]

Wow at this thread! Post sum pics up, surly u can get a ziptie or 2 in there??? Lol jks!

[Bl4cK32]

buy a 2nd hand one, weld it if you have a heavy foot, and spend as little time bent backwards and facing the sky as possible just fitting the newie. Wouldnt take that long

[jrm]

How does buying another one help? It's spot welded from the factory at the top and bottom - it doesn't bolt in. (Probably why it's so easy to snap)

Options really from the previous posted thread - bolt it on (seems dodgy) or find someone to weld it. I guess I'm looking for suggestions on somewhere to take this who can fix it.

[Bl4cK32]

How does buying another one help? It's spot welded from the factory at the top and bottom - it doesn't bolt in. (Probably why it's so easy to snap)

Skim reading, missed that it was spot welded in. If you can get someone who will do a good job, and protect your interior, then welding it would be the only option. I dont know if you can see the spot welds from under the car, because id remove trim around the welds, and tack weld the pedal back from under the car with someone holding it in the right spot inside the cabin maybe?

[Krishy]

stop slamming the accelerator lol......if i were you mate i would get it to a workshop and get them to do it all up properly....

[mid life crisis]

ya best bet would be to remove the pedal assembly so you can weld it properly ..... i could ark weld it if you pull it out and bring it too me .

[skins]

Mine broke just recently took it to the mechanic they tried to weld it back on but it wouldn't weld. They ended up drilling holes in the floor and bolting it on. Works a treat now.

[jrm]

Mine broke just recently took it to the mechanic they tried to weld it back on but it wouldn't weld. They ended up drilling holes in the floor and bolting it on. Works a treat now.

yeah - I've been looking at it this afternoon and with the sound deadening there and the way the mount is I reckon it would suck hard to weld. I can understand why the guy in the othrer thread just rivetted but bolting sounds better to me - assuming you can get to the back of the bolt. Guessing it's just the firewall?

It seems scarily common for these to break...

Anyway - tips on mechanic who did it for you? Was it anyone special?

[andrew_r32GTR]

yeah - I've been looking at it this afternoon and with the sound deadening there and the way the mount is I reckon it would suck hard to weld. I can understand why the guy in the othrer thread just rivetted but bolting sounds better to me - assuming you can get to the back of the bolt. Guessing it's just the firewall?

It seems scarily common for these to break...

Anyway - tips on mechanic who did it for you? Was it anyone special?

Pm sent

[RubyRS4]

I have a welder and can weld it for you.

Surely the assembly can be removed/unbolted? If the whole assembly is spot welded in to the firewall, I would recommend removing the whole assembly, then weld it onto a plate, that can be drilled and bolted back in for fitment.

Got pics of the problem?

[jrm]

It's pretty difficult to get pics, unfortunately - I'll try and get some tonight.

Basically there's a pivot/spring point which seems to be bolted to a backing plate. That backing plate is sorta /\ shaped which is spot-welded at the top and bottom to the firewall behind sound-deadening (there's a hole in the sound deadening to let it poke through for bolting onto). Right now the sound-deadening is all that's hold it in-place, making it vaguely drivable.

The pivot/spring should be able to be unbolted from the part that's normally welded to the firewall, and then slid through the sound-deadening. The idea of welding this to plate and then bolting that to the firewall sounds like a sound engineering idea to me.

So RubyRS4 - are you or do you know someone who can just take care of this for me? (andrew_r32GTR - is this how you'd be able to do it for me?)

Either way, I can't imagine it'd cost too much ($50-100), but I do want to ensure it gets done right - especially position-wise (the accelerator pedal position to the brake pedal is important for heel-toe - though I'm wondering if that's one of the reasons it snapped...)

[D_Stirls]

Mine did this a few months after i bough the car, I just used 4 pop rivets and it was fixed. That was ~ 5 years ago.

[RubyRS4]

Unfortunately I'd need to eyeball the problem to see if welding is the solution. As Dale pointed out, pop rivetting it in place should work.

[jrm]

I try and do my best with car stuff - spanner work like simple servicing a car I can handle, but I wouldn't do a timing belt. Hell, ripping interior trim apart to swap interior carpet over, or putting in a stereo - sure... But for me, this is getting beyond comfort level

Drilling into the firewall scares the begeezus outta me (and I don't even own a pot-rivet gun!)

Realistically, I'd rather just take this to someone and have them go 'uhhh chuck us $50-100 and i'll take care of it' ..

[RubyRS4]

I try and do my best with car stuff - spanner work like simple servicing a car I can handle, but I wouldn't do a timing belt. Hell, ripping interior trim apart to swap interior carpet over, or putting in a stereo - sure... But for me, this is getting beyond comfort level

Drilling into the firewall scares the begeezus outta me (and I don't even own a pot-rivet gun!)

Realistically, I'd rather just take this to someone and have them go 'uhhh chuck us $50-100 and i'll take care of it' ..

Tell ya what. A few of us will be assisting skyline_freak_r33 this Saturday morning in the Gepps Cross area. If you want to join us, I can look at your car then, and maybe even be able to fix it there and then. I've got the tools needed for the job too. Just bring some beers to keep us happy, and we'll make a party of it.

If it needs something more than a quick fix (ie removal, rewelding, and bolting in place) then we'll talk the "chuck us $50-100" then.

Related thread is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pa...ar-t325648.html

[Luciano]

Mine did this a few months after i bough the car, I just used 4 pop rivets and it was fixed. That was ~ 5 years ago.

+1

I did this on my old 33 too. Very simple and effective fix.

here's me old thread which may answer some questions: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ac...nt-t213337.html

[andrew_r32GTR]

It's pretty difficult to get pics, unfortunately - I'll try and get some tonight.

Basically there's a pivot/spring point which seems to be bolted to a backing plate. That backing plate is sorta /\ shaped which is spot-welded at the top and bottom to the firewall behind sound-deadening (there's a hole in the sound deadening to let it poke through for bolting onto). Right now the sound-deadening is all that's hold it in-place, making it vaguely drivable.

The pivot/spring should be able to be unbolted from the part that's normally welded to the firewall, and then slid through the sound-deadening. The idea of welding this to plate and then bolting that to the firewall sounds like a sound engineering idea to me.

So RubyRS4 - are you or do you know someone who can just take care of this for me? (andrew_r32GTR - is this how you'd be able to do it for me?)

Either way, I can't imagine it'd cost too much ($50-100), but I do want to ensure it gets done right - especially position-wise (the accelerator pedal position to the brake pedal is important for heel-toe - though I'm wondering if that's one of the reasons it snapped...)

welding it would be to hard. a lot of stuff with need to be stripped so it isnt damaged or burnt from sparks. Its totaly up to you. I wouldnt use rivers unless you absolutly have to. depending on room a few nuts and bolts with spring washer would be fine.

[jrm]

Tell ya what. A few of us will be assisting skyline_freak_r33 this Saturday morning in the Gepps Cross area. If you want to join us, I can look at your car then, and maybe even be able to fix it there and then. I've got the tools needed for the job too. Just bring some beers to keep us happy, and we'll make a party of it.

If it needs something more than a quick fix (ie removal, rewelding, and bolting in place) then we'll talk the "chuck us $50-100" then.

Related thread is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pa...ar-t325648.html

... and it's now all fixed, and feeling much better than it was previously (must have been working it's way loose for a while..)

A huge thank-you to RubyRS4 for taking the time to have a look and fix the issue - I owe you

Also a thank-you to skyline_freak_r33 et al for not minding me steal Ruby's time & skills amongst the work of stripping the R33

[RubyRS4]

Wondering if my little fix got you home

I was quite surprised at how cleanly those spot welds snapped. Bloody Japs I don't think you'll have to worry about that problem in the future.

And I was in such a rush to leave and get Tracy to work ... I left my 30m extension cord at the yard