Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone - It's time to sell my first pride and joy. I've finally upgraded to a new car after 4 glorious years with this beauty as a first owner personal import and have no use for two cars so now It's time to go :D

So here it is:

Make: Nissan Skyline

Model: HCR32 GTS-t Type-M

Year: November 92'

Vin Code: HCR32 284519 (Nissan Fast screen shot added here)

Color: KH2 Gunmetal Grey

Kms: 142,000~

Registration: end of June 2010 - Reg will be paid so you will have all 12 months :D

RWC: Yes

Price: $12000 O.B.O - Make me an offer, looking for quick sale :)

I have owned this rock solid car for almost 4 years now. I am the first Australian owner having imported in june 06 as there was nothing near as good condition locally - I bought it dead stock except for cat-back and coilovers, the rest was done here. This is also my daily driver, has not ever missed a beat - Regularly serviced at 5000km-10,000 intervals (I believe if you take good care of your car, it will take care of you and it has!). I've taken care of this car like a baby, whenever it came to modification decisions i always made a lot of research and stuck to smart and subtle/reliable modifications. Overall this car is in very good condition and with no accident history.

Modifications & Service history:

-Major service was done at approx 95,000km which included: w/pump, idler/tensioner bearings, heavy duty trust timing belt, cam + crank seals as well as new rocker cover gaskets.

-Exedy Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty, Nissan Skyline R31/32/33 (NSK-7056HD) installed at 104,245km still very strong

-GKtech split dump+front pipe & FMIC Kit

-Standard airbox using highflow K&N Panel filter with cold air feed via custom hose fitting

-3.5" cat-back (not sure on brand, came with car from japan - JASMA plated, nice subtle tone. Flows well)

-Apexi N1 99 Spec adjustable height/damper coilover suspension

-RB25 S1 turbo (purchased off mark_sudakov VGC no shaft play! Installed 24-8-08)

-CEFF11E Remap (awesome tune with Turbo-Tech bleed valve boost controller set at 13psi making a healthy 186.8rwkw)

-Bosch 040 in-tank fuel pump (installed just before major service)

-Mines front strut brace

-Recently put in brand new yellow jacket coilpacks so I can now run NGK BCPR7ES-11, 1.1mm plugs with no hassles - Idles and revs out really smooth.

-Tinted Windows

-GT-R Headlights also I believe as there is brackets on them for GT-R grille.

-Project Mu slotted front rotors

-GENUINE PLASTIC GT-R front bar, factory type-m side skirts and rear pods give it a gorgeous and aggressive look

-R33 GT-R wheels 17x9 +30 (have seen better days, some gutter rash but that's how I bought them)

-Professionally rolled guards

Security:

-Warlock Alarm System 1500A + Siren (3500A equivalent) installed by trusted SAU member - great bit of kit, installed extremely well, comes with two remotes and have made two sets of keys.

Interior:

Whole interior is standard and in immaculate condition (no tears or cigarette burns). Steering wheel like new, dash immaculate bar real small bubble in corner.

Minor cons:

- small kink in rear quarter someone tapped with door or trolley when parked at shopping center, haven't gotten around to get it popped out. It's pretty minor.

- Paint is very good for age, you'll find some spots might be losing some clear but overall good for its age.

That's all I can think of for the moment, this is very hard for me to do but I'm looking for a quick sale as I've just purchased another car awaiting delivery - Don't be afraid to throw any offers as I am negotiable. Remember this comes with 12 months registration and RWC will be supplied! Recently replaced tyres with some 225/45 Toyo Proxes T1R all round - Great tyres with heaps of tread.

Don't miss out if you're after one of these cars, easily one of the best R32's going around at the moment and will serve you well! Has to be seen to be appreciated. I'm confident that the first to see her will take her! I will miss her dearly sad.gif

You can contact me on 0406 948 342 or post/PM me on here for anything you need. I'm located in St.Albans - Western Suburbs of Melbourne.

Cheers

Steve.

0013p.jpg

mycar1m.jpg

34586148.jpg

0011dd.jpg

0014kct.jpg

74586546.jpg

51504732.jpg

84547171.jpg

37836037.jpg

dynoc.jpg

fast284519.jpg

If you'd like any more photos or any other information send requests and I'll put them up ASAP.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325539-92-hcr32-gts-t-type-m-for-sale/
Share on other sites

nice very nice i wish

Thanks mate - Don't anybody be afraid to throw around any offers! I am very negotiable and looking for a quick sale :w00t:

This is one of the best quality R32's i've had the privilage to go in.

Sad to see it go, whoever gets it will be very impressed.

Thanks Trent - A lot of good memories will leave with this car. :)

Such a good example!

Thanks Russ :D

One other thing to note with this car on the 'negative side' is that on cold starts you will need to blip the throttle once to get the revs up so it holds (really common with r32's and cold starts - Might have something to do with std ECU?), rear suspension is a little noisy and the climate control unit can also be stubborn at times but does work.

Nothing major, car runs great and been like this for all the years I've owned it and couldn't be happier.

Like I said don't be afraid to throw around any offers, you might be surprised as I'm looking for a quick sale. :)

From what i've seen its a pretty mint example of a quality 32. Something thats getting pretty damn hard to find now days!

Best of luck with the sale mate. I would buy it straight away if i had the garage space and coin :P

That's to everyone who's contributed here - It's much appreciated and glad that the car gets so much notice, it deserves it :cool:

BTW Car is on hold for the next couple of weeks for an interested party to come have a look - I'll keep everyone updated.

Cheers

Steve.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
    • This has clearly gone off on quite a tangent but the suggestion was "go standalone because you probably aren't going to stop at just exhaust + a mild tune and manual boost controller", not "buy a standalone purely for a boost controller". If the scope does in fact stop creeping at an EBC then sure, buy an EVC7 or Profec or whatever else people like to run and stop there. And I have yet to see any kind of aftermarket boost control that is more complicated than a PID controller with some accounting for edge cases. Control system theory is an incredibly vast field yet somehow we always end up back at some variant of a PID controller, maybe with some work done to linearize things. I have done quite a lot, but I don't care to indulge in those pissing matches, hence posting primary sources. I deal with people quite frequently that scream and shout about how their opinion matters more because they've shipped more x or y, it doesn't change the reality of the data they're trying to disagree with. Arguing that the source material is wrong is an entirely separate point and while my experience obviously doesn't matter here I've rarely seen factory service manuals be incorrect about something. It's not some random poorly documented internal software tool that is constantly being patched to barely work. It's also not that hard to just read the Japanese and double check translations either. Especially in automotive parts most of it is loanwords anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...