Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

Been doing a lot of research on this but would like to know more has anyone done one here and turbo charged

it as well most of the stuff i have read is with triples.

Regards

Scott.

Do a search here, lots of good information,

http://forums.hybridz.org/

There is much info on this topic, bottom line is that they go great as N/A (with tripples)

but once you put a turbo on it reliability goes out the window due to the bore thickness being reduced so much.

If you REALLY wanted to boost it you would need to sleeve the bores (meaning EXPENSIVE AS!)

there is a siamesed f54, and a non-siamesed f54, cant rememember which is better!

If your looking at doing this with the HR30, I'd suggest a L28 with some very decent add-ons. will get you over the 200rwkW mark if done correctly.

Head combination and camshaft is the key, as well as matching the turbo to the engine (not the other way round)

Keep an eye out for Adaptronic ECU, oz built and owned and is extremely good.

Contact Stewart Wilkins in sydneyor Randy at Nissco in Bayswater/Vic they know who does what

Scott,

You PM'd me on this subject and as yet dont have the time to answer you.

If your not in a busting rush to do this, let me get back from Canberra in a week and I'll discuss it detail.

Bottom line is "IT ISN'T GOING TO BE CHEAP" and there is far better ways of going about it than building an L31. For starters, the LD28 crank is going to set you back a grand, plus machining. Forget about turbo unless your mad keen on splitting the block.

Cheers, D

There is much info on this topic, bottom line is that they go great as N/A (with tripples)

but once you put a turbo on it reliability goes out the window due to the bore thickness being reduced so much.

If you REALLY wanted to boost it you would need to sleeve the bores (meaning EXPENSIVE AS!)

there is a siamesed f54, and a non-siamesed f54, cant rememember which is better!

If your looking at doing this with the HR30, I'd suggest a L28 with some very decent add-ons. will get you over the 200rwkW mark if done correctly.

Head combination and camshaft is the key, as well as matching the turbo to the engine (not the other way round)

Keep an eye out for Adaptronic ECU, oz built and owned and is extremely good.

Contact Stewart Wilkins in sydneyor Randy at Nissco in Bayswater/Vic they know who does what

The F54 was the good non siamesed one. Most, if not all of the other castings have some siamesing between bores.

There is much info on this topic, bottom line is that they go great as N/A (with tripples)

but once you put a turbo on it reliability goes out the window due to the bore thickness being reduced so much.

If you REALLY wanted to boost it you would need to sleeve the bores (meaning EXPENSIVE AS!)

there is a siamesed f54, and a non-siamesed f54, cant rememember which is better!

If your looking at doing this with the HR30, I'd suggest a L28 with some very decent add-ons. will get you over the 200rwkW mark if done correctly.

Head combination and camshaft is the key, as well as matching the turbo to the engine (not the other way round)

Keep an eye out for Adaptronic ECU, oz built and owned and is extremely good.

Contact Stewart Wilkins in sydneyor Randy at Nissco in Bayswater/Vic they know who does what

Thanks mmate

Do have a F54 block and N42 head also have been buying some other goodies i have a couple of mates in NZ and there's plenty of bits over there

just getting it here adds a little cost but our dollars better over theirs and a good mate there is in the Freight industry he gets it all collected through

work or he grabs it for me if not far then he'll get it shipped over here for me for mates rates as best he can.

And adds on and internals will be quality parts for sure you can count on that.

The cars in the shed in bits now so will start pics on the rebuild & Resto when time permits but will be a good one.

Scott,

You PM'd me on this subject and as yet dont have the time to answer you.

If your not in a busting rush to do this, let me get back from Canberra in a week and I'll discuss it detail.

Bottom line is "IT ISN'T GOING TO BE CHEAP" and there is far better ways of going about it than building an L31. For starters, the LD28 crank is going to set you back a grand, plus machining. Forget about turbo unless your mad keen on splitting the block.

Cheers, D

Hey D

No drama's when you have time and I know the Bottom line is been there plenty but it's tax time hahahah and i gotta spend.

Wouldn't be worth it if it was cheap don't expect it to be gotta be cheaper than 600+hp nascar engined sports sedan hey,enough

bragging and i know your not a 4door nut but someone has to be.Pm me when you have time and take it from there.

Re

Scott.

When I went down this path a couple of years ago, I found them for sale in NZ for as little as AU$120.00, but by the time it got to Australia it was over AU$1000.00 because it's heavier than 20kg and therefore NO post shop in NZ will accept it, no matter what the NZ Post web site says, the shops/outlets WILL NOT ACCEPT IT.

So! you have an alternative, ship it by AIR or SEA?

Air, it's got customs duty, insurance, minimum weight, terminal charges etc etc etc and as I said it's over AU$1000.00 by the time it gets here.

Sea, same sort of deal because you get charged a minimum of 1cu mtr in the container.

Scott, there are much easier ways of getting the torque & power this L31 can produce.

For starters, if your going to turbo it, you need an N42 block, not F54 as is perceived. You have to take this block 3.0mm o/size to 89mm and the F54 bores become far to thin and become porous, allowing coolant and oil to seep through the bore walls when boosted with as little as the factory 8psi.

I recon I'm going to get 500~600Nm torque from my 2818 motor (plus 1.0mm o/size to 87mm) and 200+ Killer Wasps at the wheels on less than 10psi.

Why would you want more than this?

Make it handle and stop and you have a potential GTR killer in a classic R30. In my opinion, the dollars are better spent on handling options, brakes & tyres to get it to the ground.

Cheers, D

When I went down this path a couple of years ago, I found them for sale in NZ for as little as AU$120.00, but by the time it got to Australia it was over AU$1000.00 because it's heavier than 20kg and therefore NO post shop in NZ will accept it, no matter what the NZ Post web site says, the shops/outlets WILL NOT ACCEPT IT.

So! you have an alternative, ship it by AIR or SEA?

Air, it's got customs duty, insurance, minimum weight, terminal charges etc etc etc and as I said it's over AU$1000.00 by the time it gets here.

Sea, same sort of deal because you get charged a minimum of 1cu mtr in the container.

Scott, there are much easier ways of getting the torque & power this L31 can produce.

For starters, if your going to turbo it, you need an N42 block, not F54 as is perceived. You have to take this block 3.0mm o/size to 89mm and the F54 bores become far to thin and become porous, allowing coolant and oil to seep through the bore walls when boosted with as little as the factory 8psi.

I recon I'm going to get 500~600Nm torque from my 2818 motor (plus 1.0mm o/size to 87mm) and 200+ Killer Wasps at the wheels on less than 10psi.

Why would you want more than this?

Make it handle and stop and you have a potential GTR killer in a classic R30. In my opinion, the dollars are better spent on handling options, brakes & tyres to get it to the ground.

Cheers, D

Thanks D

So much to learn about these old girls so the L31 set up would be saver with triples rather than turbo charged other than doing what MAG86

mentioned,sleaving it not really worth it as you can get some good Hp other ways ARGHHHH what to do.

O'k back to the drawing board.

Front end ? what are my choices in struts D R's would be compatible are 31's, s13.s? knowing know this is not going to be anything other than a club

car and $$$ no issues i really need to be pointed in the right directions weather i have to get parts from Japan,America i want to do it properly the 1st

any way thanks for all the info and keep it coming as i do want to build this into something with all the boxes ticked,

Re

Scott.

Thanks D

So much to learn about these old girls so the L31 set up would be saver with triples rather than turbo charged other than doing what MAG86

mentioned,sleaving it not really worth it as you can get some good Hp other ways ARGHHHH what to do.

O'k back to the drawing board.

Front end ? what are my choices in struts D R's would be compatible are 31's, s13.s? knowing know this is not going to be anything other than a club

car and $$$ no issues i really need to be pointed in the right directions weather i have to get parts from Japan,America i want to do it properly the 1st

any way thanks for all the info and keep it coming as i do want to build this into something with all the boxes ticked,

Re

Scott.

Scott,

I can get you a VT Commodore front set up for a few hundred dollars that fits the MR struts.

EFI not carbies is the only way to go these days, Webbers & Dellorto's do not pass current emissions laws.

MAG86 has lots of ideas, but his technical knowledge base on L series is limited.

Suspension can be sourced here in 99% of cases.

Talk to me via PM for further information.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...