Jump to content
SAU Community

Ld28 Crank To Make 3.1ltr

old dude
 Share

Recommended Posts

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
Posted
Hi All

Been doing a lot of research on this but would like to know more has anyone done one here and turbo charged

it as well most of the stuff i have read is with triples.

Regards

Scott.

Do a search here, lots of good information,

http://forums.hybridz.org/

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

There is much info on this topic, bottom line is that they go great as N/A (with tripples)

but once you put a turbo on it reliability goes out the window due to the bore thickness being reduced so much.

If you REALLY wanted to boost it you would need to sleeve the bores (meaning EXPENSIVE AS!)

there is a siamesed f54, and a non-siamesed f54, cant rememember which is better!

If your looking at doing this with the HR30, I'd suggest a L28 with some very decent add-ons. will get you over the 200rwkW mark if done correctly.

Head combination and camshaft is the key, as well as matching the turbo to the engine (not the other way round)

Keep an eye out for Adaptronic ECU, oz built and owned and is extremely good.

Contact Stewart Wilkins in sydneyor Randy at Nissco in Bayswater/Vic they know who does what

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Scott,

You PM'd me on this subject and as yet dont have the time to answer you.

If your not in a busting rush to do this, let me get back from Canberra in a week and I'll discuss it detail.

Bottom line is "IT ISN'T GOING TO BE CHEAP" and there is far better ways of going about it than building an L31. For starters, the LD28 crank is going to set you back a grand, plus machining. Forget about turbo unless your mad keen on splitting the block.

Cheers, D

Blue Enthusiast

Blue

Posted
Posted
There is much info on this topic, bottom line is that they go great as N/A (with tripples)

but once you put a turbo on it reliability goes out the window due to the bore thickness being reduced so much.

If you REALLY wanted to boost it you would need to sleeve the bores (meaning EXPENSIVE AS!)

there is a siamesed f54, and a non-siamesed f54, cant rememember which is better!

If your looking at doing this with the HR30, I'd suggest a L28 with some very decent add-ons. will get you over the 200rwkW mark if done correctly.

Head combination and camshaft is the key, as well as matching the turbo to the engine (not the other way round)

Keep an eye out for Adaptronic ECU, oz built and owned and is extremely good.

Contact Stewart Wilkins in sydneyor Randy at Nissco in Bayswater/Vic they know who does what

The F54 was the good non siamesed one. Most, if not all of the other castings have some siamesing between bores.

old dude Enthusiast

old dude

Posted
  • Author
Posted
There is much info on this topic, bottom line is that they go great as N/A (with tripples)

but once you put a turbo on it reliability goes out the window due to the bore thickness being reduced so much.

If you REALLY wanted to boost it you would need to sleeve the bores (meaning EXPENSIVE AS!)

there is a siamesed f54, and a non-siamesed f54, cant rememember which is better!

If your looking at doing this with the HR30, I'd suggest a L28 with some very decent add-ons. will get you over the 200rwkW mark if done correctly.

Head combination and camshaft is the key, as well as matching the turbo to the engine (not the other way round)

Keep an eye out for Adaptronic ECU, oz built and owned and is extremely good.

Contact Stewart Wilkins in sydneyor Randy at Nissco in Bayswater/Vic they know who does what

Thanks mmate

Do have a F54 block and N42 head also have been buying some other goodies i have a couple of mates in NZ and there's plenty of bits over there

just getting it here adds a little cost but our dollars better over theirs and a good mate there is in the Freight industry he gets it all collected through

work or he grabs it for me if not far then he'll get it shipped over here for me for mates rates as best he can.

And adds on and internals will be quality parts for sure you can count on that.

The cars in the shed in bits now so will start pics on the rebuild & Resto when time permits but will be a good one.

old dude Enthusiast

old dude

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Scott,

You PM'd me on this subject and as yet dont have the time to answer you.

If your not in a busting rush to do this, let me get back from Canberra in a week and I'll discuss it detail.

Bottom line is "IT ISN'T GOING TO BE CHEAP" and there is far better ways of going about it than building an L31. For starters, the LD28 crank is going to set you back a grand, plus machining. Forget about turbo unless your mad keen on splitting the block.

Cheers, D

Hey D

No drama's when you have time and I know the Bottom line is been there plenty but it's tax time hahahah and i gotta spend.

Wouldn't be worth it if it was cheap don't expect it to be gotta be cheaper than 600+hp nascar engined sports sedan hey,enough

bragging and i know your not a 4door nut but someone has to be.Pm me when you have time and take it from there.

Re

Scott.

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

When I went down this path a couple of years ago, I found them for sale in NZ for as little as AU$120.00, but by the time it got to Australia it was over AU$1000.00 because it's heavier than 20kg and therefore NO post shop in NZ will accept it, no matter what the NZ Post web site says, the shops/outlets WILL NOT ACCEPT IT.

So! you have an alternative, ship it by AIR or SEA?

Air, it's got customs duty, insurance, minimum weight, terminal charges etc etc etc and as I said it's over AU$1000.00 by the time it gets here.

Sea, same sort of deal because you get charged a minimum of 1cu mtr in the container.

Scott, there are much easier ways of getting the torque & power this L31 can produce.

For starters, if your going to turbo it, you need an N42 block, not F54 as is perceived. You have to take this block 3.0mm o/size to 89mm and the F54 bores become far to thin and become porous, allowing coolant and oil to seep through the bore walls when boosted with as little as the factory 8psi.

I recon I'm going to get 500~600Nm torque from my 2818 motor (plus 1.0mm o/size to 87mm) and 200+ Killer Wasps at the wheels on less than 10psi.

Why would you want more than this?

Make it handle and stop and you have a potential GTR killer in a classic R30. In my opinion, the dollars are better spent on handling options, brakes & tyres to get it to the ground.

Cheers, D

old dude Enthusiast

old dude

Posted
  • Author
Posted
When I went down this path a couple of years ago, I found them for sale in NZ for as little as AU$120.00, but by the time it got to Australia it was over AU$1000.00 because it's heavier than 20kg and therefore NO post shop in NZ will accept it, no matter what the NZ Post web site says, the shops/outlets WILL NOT ACCEPT IT.

So! you have an alternative, ship it by AIR or SEA?

Air, it's got customs duty, insurance, minimum weight, terminal charges etc etc etc and as I said it's over AU$1000.00 by the time it gets here.

Sea, same sort of deal because you get charged a minimum of 1cu mtr in the container.

Scott, there are much easier ways of getting the torque & power this L31 can produce.

For starters, if your going to turbo it, you need an N42 block, not F54 as is perceived. You have to take this block 3.0mm o/size to 89mm and the F54 bores become far to thin and become porous, allowing coolant and oil to seep through the bore walls when boosted with as little as the factory 8psi.

I recon I'm going to get 500~600Nm torque from my 2818 motor (plus 1.0mm o/size to 87mm) and 200+ Killer Wasps at the wheels on less than 10psi.

Why would you want more than this?

Make it handle and stop and you have a potential GTR killer in a classic R30. In my opinion, the dollars are better spent on handling options, brakes & tyres to get it to the ground.

Cheers, D

Thanks D

So much to learn about these old girls so the L31 set up would be saver with triples rather than turbo charged other than doing what MAG86

mentioned,sleaving it not really worth it as you can get some good Hp other ways ARGHHHH what to do.

O'k back to the drawing board.

Front end ? what are my choices in struts D R's would be compatible are 31's, s13.s? knowing know this is not going to be anything other than a club

car and $$$ no issues i really need to be pointed in the right directions weather i have to get parts from Japan,America i want to do it properly the 1st

any way thanks for all the info and keep it coming as i do want to build this into something with all the boxes ticked,

Re

Scott.

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
Thanks D

So much to learn about these old girls so the L31 set up would be saver with triples rather than turbo charged other than doing what MAG86

mentioned,sleaving it not really worth it as you can get some good Hp other ways ARGHHHH what to do.

O'k back to the drawing board.

Front end ? what are my choices in struts D R's would be compatible are 31's, s13.s? knowing know this is not going to be anything other than a club

car and $$$ no issues i really need to be pointed in the right directions weather i have to get parts from Japan,America i want to do it properly the 1st

any way thanks for all the info and keep it coming as i do want to build this into something with all the boxes ticked,

Re

Scott.

Scott,

I can get you a VT Commodore front set up for a few hundred dollars that fits the MR struts.

EFI not carbies is the only way to go these days, Webbers & Dellorto's do not pass current emissions laws.

MAG86 has lots of ideas, but his technical knowledge base on L series is limited.

Suspension can be sourced here in 99% of cases.

Talk to me via PM for further information.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 Gtt RB25det neo Issue After Modifications

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, I was going to say, "Is the wastegate set up so that it is not leaking?" That's actually a different thing to what you're asking about. In theory, if you have allowed the two halves of the manifold to commmunicate (more than the stock manifold does - which is at least a little bit) then the negative effect should be apparent in delayed spool, not in outrigth power. OK, maybe just maybe, a badly set up twin scroll wastegate "crosstalk" might kill the top end, although it's hard to see how. What is happening with the original wastegate in the turbo? is it sealed off properly. If it's left flapping in the breeze, it will f**k everything up. If it is still there, and can be returned to service, I'd be capping off the external (presuming the two halves can and will be isolated from each other after doing so) and have a go with just the stock wastegate. I have an internal wastegate in my highflowed rear housing. The bigger opening and flapper should be fine to >250 rwkW. So there's not exactly a pressing reason to have the external. Done right, an external will give better results. Done wrong, it might just be possible to have worse results. Report back!
    • ChrisGtt
      R34 Gtt RB25det neo Issue After Modifications

      By ChrisGtt · Posted

      Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Lithium
      Share Your Euro!

      By Lithium · Posted

      Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • robbo_rb180
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
×
×
  • Create New...