Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking to buy some new 18 inch Work XT7's and need to know what offset and width I can go. I was hoping I could fit 9.5 inch as I think they would just fit with a little guard massaging.

I don't want spacers so I need to get this right first time. Any ideas guys?

post-63525-1279295509_thumb.jpg

I'm looking to buy some new 18 inch Work XT7's and need to know what offset and width I can go. I was hoping I could fit 9.5 inch as I think they would just fit with a little guard massaging.

I don't want spacers so I need to get this right first time. Any ideas guys?

Hey Scotty,

Spoolin and I worked out that the perfect fitment is a 9.5 with a +35 offset for the M35.

This will get it flush to the body without any rolling of guards and clear the front suspension arm by about 7mm. So no mods to the body and 100% no scrubbing.

It will also mean you get that deeper spoke pull on the XT7's that make them look soo good!

Im pretty sure the XT7 come in a 18x9.5 +38 which would be sweet with a 3mm spacer to give a little extra clearance on the front suspension arm (if it wasnt for that arm, we could easily fit 10.5 to 11" all the way round!

Edited by bbenny
Hey Scotty,

Spoolin and I worked out that the perfect fitment is a 9.5 with a +35 offset for the M35.

This will get it flush to the body without any rolling of guards and clear the front suspension arm by about 7mm. So no mods to the body and 100% no scrubbing.

It will also mean you get that deeper spoke pull on the XT7's that make them look soo good!

Im pretty sure the XT7 come in a 18x9.5 +38 which would be sweet with a 3mm spacer to give a little extra clearance on the front suspension arm (if it wasnt for that arm, we could easily fit 10.5 to 11" all the way round!

As Scotty stated he didn't want spacers, sucks that it is hard to fill the guards without having to add spacers.

If the suspension arm has 7mm clearance and he went with a +38 rim, that would reduce the clearance to 4mm. I assume this would be running too close for comfort?

Mmm 4mm is cutting it close as there is flex in those parts. I would rather push them out a bit more and rollll. ;)

Looks like +30's are the go then?

+ 30 will be fine, you will just have to roll the lip on the rear guard or just run a tyre size down so they are a little more stretched.

I just would be careful on the front guard.

Here is how a +35 sits on my car - as you can see its pretty flush up front. So +30 will sit 5mm further out, the rear will be fine with just a roll if needed, but the front guards are already rolled.

Honestly you will be fine with a stretched tyre.

_MG_7823.jpg_MG_7824.jpg

_MG_7827.jpg

  • 1 year later...

Sounds about right.

I provided that to Braid, and they said they'd suggest an 18 x 8 +40-42, but because they were a wider rim they'd sit out more and fill the guards a bit better.

So that's probably the way I'll go. A nice set of these:

1222869591.preview.jpg

http://samotorsporttyres.com.au/content/winrace-1

Sounds about right.

I provided that to Braid, and they said they'd suggest an 18 x 8 +40-42, but because they were a wider rim they'd sit out more and fill the guards a bit better.

So that's probably the way I'll go. A nice set of these:

1222869591.preview.jpg

http://samotorsportt...ntent/winrace-1

+40/+42 would look crap. go minimum +30...

an 8 inch rim isn't that wide...

Agreed!

I ran AR-X 18x8 +40, but when I went to V35 18x8 +30; looks so much better! Consider +30 the absolute minimum; then get a little braver.

Also make sure you don't go too small on rolling dia, even 20's can get swallowed up in those big wheelarches if you go too low a profile.

Yeah you need atleast an 8.5+30 to near fill the guards.

mine were 8.5 +20

they sat awesome. 5 or 6 mm out the guard. worked well because of the ARX over fenders.

I'm getting tyres fitted Saturday. I'm looking at a 245/45-18 as there is a greater choice in that size. Also thinking of a 235/45-18 to get a little stretch to help clear the guards. Not that big of a choice in that size either. I like the fact the 245/45-18 is a little taller than stock to help correct the spedo a little. I'm assuming all m35's read higher than actual speed. Just hope they don't hit the guards on bumps or steering lock.

I'm looking at nexen n1000, anyone had any experience with these?

Edited by slippylotion

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
    • Yeah since those first 2 replies I actually went and put some 98 in it and tbf it's already doing much better than the 95 (which is weird and makes my inner tinfoil hat wearer think the 95 was a crap batch), getting 8ish around town. Again, wonder if it takes a while to stabilize if the fuel is changed a couple of times. I swear cars used to just either run "well" or "s**t* in my 20s, none of this fuel optimisation business haha 
×
×
  • Create New...