Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/190611_1943516947317_1224295443_4398956_8279466_n.jpg

This is my Gf stagea as it sits at the moment

There weds kranze cerberus ii in 19s

Width I'm unsure as the same as ofset ,

Tires are 19/235 35 on the front

And 19/265 35 on rear , tires are also look fairly stretched,

Looking the goods there!

I'd be willing to bet those staggered tyre sizes are the root of you driveline shudder.

They're a no go on these cars...

Size is up to you, but they have to be the same sizes front and rear.

Even theoretically perfectly matched rolling dia staggered sets seem to cause issues with the ATESSA system.

If you can; fit a set of matching dia wheels/tyres, and see what happens.

Size is up to you, but they have to be the same sizes front and rear.

Even theoretically perfectly matched rolling dia staggered sets seem to cause issues with the ATESSA system.

If you can; fit a set of matching dia wheels/tyres, and see what happens.

I always found this a little strange, by this reasoning adjusting the camber on a car, even if its not by choice (lowering) would change the amount of tyre contacting the road and thus change the width and more than likely the rolling diameter ever so slightly...

I have also seen plenty of GTR's running staggered widths in the past, is there something about our cars that makes this an impossibility?

Mike.

I always found this a little strange, by this reasoning adjusting the camber on a car, even if its not by choice (lowering) would change the amount of tyre contacting the road and thus change the width and more than likely the rolling diameter ever so slightly...

I have also seen plenty of GTR's running staggered widths in the past, is there something about our cars that makes this an impossibility?

Mike.

I have to say I agree. GTR's seem to get away with it fine, I've even seen Evos with 9.5" wide rims front, and 9" rear, albeit with the same size tyres (apparently gives better grip through corners), but when I had slightly different tyres on my C34 Stagea, it "bucked" from the get go. I won't be trying it on my M35..

Hey Wagon boy, looking nice! Did you get the wing fitted after or was it already there?

He already had it; but he's just minding for me until Sunday...:ph34r:

Bloody Nismo; why can't they just make something that I DON'T want?:spank:

Most wings are "not suitable for ARX" is this correct?

No.

All Nismo add-ons state "not suitable for ARX" for some reason, even though you can fit the speedo, suspension, exhaust, wing etc just the same as with an RS or RX.

Where there is a bit of a problem is with front and rear bumpers and side skirts due to the ARX and Axis flares.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...