Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Bought An R33 Skyline Gts25t - Pics, Specs And Help Needed :)


Recommended Posts

yeh dude its andrew, thought it was you things been pretty cruisy how bout your self

yeh good mate,

guys noticed when there cars been driven around for a while and i park i can hear a ticking sound coming from the motor - im guessing its the lifters - how bad a problem is this? does it mean the engine is probably a little tired? its meant to have a geniuine 68kms according to autoworx

could be - the last owner did service it at Kmart Tyre and Auto - god knows what sh*t they put in it.

Tune + Service on Friday so il let the guys at AllStar Garage know all the issues and see what happens

Edited by s13-steve

That sounds about right for the engine mods you have? You don't have an aftermarket ECU, if you got a full aftermarket ECU and got rid of that SAFC Neo, upped the boost a bit, then you would probably get a bit closer to 280.

That sounds about right for the engine mods you have? You don't have an aftermarket ECU, if you got a full aftermarket ECU and got rid of that SAFC Neo, upped the boost a bit, then you would probably get a bit closer to 280.

Doubt it.. 260rwhp give or take, is pretty much on the money. Try a different dyno and you might get 280 :)

the dyno sheet the previous owner gave me from Xspeed was 278rwhp so i was expecting something around that...

ah well 260rwhp is 193rwkw so not to bad i guess, just doesnt feel any faster then my CA18 which had 196rwhp

Doubt it.. 260rwhp give or take, is pretty much on the money. Try a different dyno and you might get 280 :)

Yeh, thought it would be pretty much correct. Does a SAFC Neo prevent boost cuts so you can run higher boost though? Surely with a stand-alone aftermarket ECU you could run a bit more timing and boost, bring it a bit closer to 280?

Yeh, thought it would be pretty much correct. Does a SAFC Neo prevent boost cuts so you can run higher boost though? Surely with a stand-alone aftermarket ECU you could run a bit more timing and boost, bring it a bit closer to 280?

The SAFC should allow you to raise your afm cut (it's not boost cut damnit! :)) as you're bending the afm signals, so the cut threshold would be proportionatly higher.

A full aftermarket ECU would allow you to wind some timing in to it but whether you would see top end gains with the 25 turbo already so close to its' limits would remain to be seen. Generally, being able to adjust timing helps with getting bigger turbos on boost (i.e. improve midrange).

Like I said, another dyno might give you a reading of 280rwhp but they are just tuning tools, not comparison tools.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
    • Does that price include the rack time to straighten the frame and body and replacement of parts and paint, as well as the noise and emmisions testing  The last engineering certificate I had done, albeit about 15 years ago, was around $1000 for a few inspections and the certificate 
×
×
  • Create New...