Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i have done a search, sounds like my cooling system may not be bled correctly.

Recently installed a new waterpump & fresh tested / cleaned radiator for my 26.

The car does not overheat at all when driving, however after stopping the overflow bottle starts to boil after a little while.

I filled up the coolant correctly (removed bleed screw etc) however to get the remaining air out it sounds like i may have to undo this bolt again when the car is hot / boiling after i stop? Just want to make sure this is safe enough to do.. or perhaps there is another way?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325735-coolant-boil-bubble/
Share on other sites

Cut the base off a coke bottle and tape the smaller side opening to your radiator filler (when cold). start the car then start tipping water into the coke bottle till its half way full and let it idle for a while.. it should bubble up releasing the air..

Cheers

Johno

Cut the base off a coke bottle and tape the smaller side opening to your radiator filler (when cold). start the car then start tipping water into the coke bottle till its half way full and let it idle for a while.. it should bubble up releasing the air..

Cheers

Johno

+1 thats the way to do it, just keeping filling till you get water coming out of the bleed screw.

probably not best to do when fully up to temp if you aren't confident. if you do decide to do it, have a rag wrapped around the area, or at least sitting over the top of the spanner. also you don't want to remove the bolt the whole way. you just want to loosen it enough that any air can escape, so you probably only need to loosen it a few turns. you will be able to tell once you are starting to get close to having it completely undone as the last few turns the bolt will be a bit wobbly in the thread, and also you will get coolant making it's way past the thread. the moment you get coolant starting to seep out then you don't need to loosen it off any further.

however i would do it when the car is only just coming up to temp. i wouldn't be doing after driving the car round for half an hour.

Cheers for the help. I bled it with this method this evening, took it for a drive - problem is still there when turned off!?

It doesn't go above 82 degrees whilst driving, even when giving some boot.

I am thinking that it might be corrosion in the cooling system? The radiator is clean as a whistle but inside the radiator pipes on motor side doesn't look too healthy. I have some cooling system flush on the way so will give this a whirl and see how i go.

I suppose the only other thing could be air getting into the system somewhere... in another thread someone mentioned the turbo water supply/return hoses.

Could it be anything else?

it is very hard for air to get into the system, because the system becomes pressurised when hot, so any places air could get in will have water squirting out of them. only real cause of air bubbles can be a dodgy water pump causing cavitation resulting in bubbles, or a blown head gasket.

it may be worth replacing your radiator cap and see if that makes any difference. just go a standard cap with the same pressure rating.

Yeah was also thinking the radiator cap. Always easy to overlook the simple things!

Replaced it last night - boil is gone :)

I heard a couple bubbles when it was cooling down. Probably just crap left over in system, getting engine flush next week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
    • from an old insurance company i was with (Budget Direct) I had someone roll back into me at the lights got them to pull over. Got a picture of thier licence with address, had a dash cam video and, thier phone number. But only had 3rd party on the shitbox i was driving. insurance did nothing, cops wouldn't do anything due to the value of the damage (under $3000) so i just had to suck it up and go to U Pull It. 
    • Small Update on the Exhaust Situation A 200-cell cat was a bit too expensive for now, so I had the exhaust shop fabricate a new exhaust from the cat to the rear and an exhaust tip. I went this route to avoid cutting into the original exhaust and keep it intact. It’s essentially straight-piped, and the sound is noticeably different. The exhaust tip came with a silencer, so if it gets too loud, I can easily install it to tone things down slightly. Right now, the car bangs and pops like crazy -- which I personally love. In the future, I might add a resonator or a 200-cell cat, as niZmO_Man suggested, but for now, I’m really happy with how it turned out.  
    • And that's a massive problem, because deadshits will deadshit and give you false details. At least in these days of mobile cameraphones, it is trivial to take photos of any ID they are carrying at the same time as the 300 photo extensive documentation of the state of the vehicles that I recommend even for minor incidents. And you get photos of the person's face, any visible tatoos, etc etc, while you're at it. Then you try to avoid mentioning that you're fully capable of making explosives of various power levels and will wreck their shit if you are forced to hunt them down.
×
×
  • Create New...