Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bought some good ol' redlight shockproof for my r32 gtr gearbox today, and i had abit of time so i jacked up the car, threw some car stands underneath for good measure and began to try unscrew the fill bolt..

that thing is on soo tight it would not budge, i used a 1/2" breaker bar and it didnt work, ive got limited room under the car so i couldnt slide a longer bar over the breaker bar for leverage.

how did other people go about removing this bolt? any special tricks that worked? its so simple to change the oil i dont wanna take it to a mechanics for it, ild rather do it myself, unless of coarse i have no other choice

all advice would be great ! thanks ! im gonna give it a go tomorow again hehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325761-undoing-gearbox-drainfill-bolts/
Share on other sites

might be telling you how to suck eggs but were u able to drain it from the bottom bung first?? probably do that.

i had the same issue with my rb25 box it was like whoever last changed the box oil put loctite in the bung thread or something. i just had to get a longer steel rod on the end of the nudge bar for more leverage. that was only possible as i had the car up on the hoist though, otherwise theres only so much leverage you can get.

Take the gearstick out and fill up through there. GTR box is 3.8L?

DO NOT do that. You will be filling up the transfercase with redline then, and that uses Transmatic D!

The shifter in a GTR/GTS-4 does not sit above the gearbox itself, it's on top of the transfercase.

For a GTS-T that would be fine.

If you do not have the correct square drive which is a metric piece then:

I put the 1/2 inch breaker on and kicked it, and or used a big rubber mallet on the end of the bar.

If the center is chewed out, you may need to get a metal bar welded to the bung....

There are other solutions too, just do a search.

Cheers.

might be telling you how to suck eggs but were u able to drain it from the bottom bung first?? probably do that.

i had the same issue with my rb25 box it was like whoever last changed the box oil put loctite in the bung thread or something. i just had to get a longer steel rod on the end of the nudge bar for more leverage. that was only possible as i had the car up on the hoist though, otherwise theres only so much leverage you can get.

DO NOT DO THIS ON A GTR BOX..... YOU WILL FILL THE TRANSFER CASE NOT THE GEARBOX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i had the same prob on my box the dickhead at the work the owner b4 me took it tighen them up way to much.... for the record.... its a plug that holds oil in the gearbox, its a tapered bolt... therefore it dosent need to be tighened up stupidly. just firm it up and than half a turn tight.... its not wheel nut.... or a dam rod bolt. its a just a plug.

ok i was able to undo my filler plug, lucky enough i have a 2post hoist in my garage so it was easyer to work on. for the drain plug this is where the real prob was, i had a rattle gun and all on it and there was no budging. So what i did in the end was, get a drill bit that fit the 1/2inch hole the break bar gose in, and drill it, DO NOT drill right throw, if you do u will break the magnet on the back and will go all over the box on the inside, as its magnetic... lol. Just lightly drill in 2mm-2.5mm and than little bits at a time, it will take the tension off the taper of the bolt/plug. it worked for me, i didnt think it would but after 4hours trying to get it out, it was my only option and it worked. just be careful.

hope this helped. : D

DO NOT fill the gear box via the gear shift hole. On a GTR this goes into the transfer case and uses auto trans fluid. If you're friendly with your mechanic you could ask get him to put it up on a hoist quickly and crack the bung with a rattle gun (a six pack of something might suffice for this favour), then retighten with a wrench enabling you to undo it when you take and the car home and do your oil change. I would also imagine that if you haven't got enough room underneath for an extension on your breaker bar the car could be higher- make sure it's on stands and not just a jack when you get under- as a rule, not just for good measure.

Edited by doo doo
DO NOT do that. You will be filling up the transfercase with redline then, and that uses Transmatic D!

The shifter in a GTR/GTS-4 does not sit above the gearbox itself, it's on top of the transfercase.

For a GTS-T that would be fine.

If you do not have the correct square drive which is a metric piece then:

I put the 1/2 inch breaker on and kicked it, and or used a big rubber mallet on the end of the bar.

If the center is chewed out, you may need to get a metal bar welded to the bung....

There are other solutions too, just do a search.

Cheers.

lol you beat me to it

thanks for the replys !

yeh i wasnt going to fill it through the gearshift, as i read previously its not suitable for GTR's

i dont know how tight the drain plug is cos i didnt try it, but as most GTR owners would know, theres limited room between the "fill" plug and the front drive shaft, this is my concern, also, looks like it was a bitch to get off before as its slightly "rounded" inside. the 1/2" drive still bites hard and didnt slip,

does anyone know what the proper size is for the drain/filler square bolt thing is? where can i buy one from ? ild rather go get the proper tool to avoid the screw from being rounded so much that its farkeed.

f*k sake, get the correct tool for the job!, (what GTRsean said) is it any wonder on skyline box's and diff's the drain plugs are rounded out because people use the end of their breaker bars. If you have the correct tool you will find they come undone with a bit of leverage

Edited by BANGN

success !!

ok so this is how i got my friggin tight fill bolt undone... i used the 1/2" ratchet, put it into the fill bung and let the handle of the ratchet hang down, i then put this electric scissor jack (like the one standard in skylines, but electric) between the gearbox cross member and the ratchet handle, holding the jack with the left hand, my right hand was controlling the up/down switch, started to open the jack, forcing it against the ratchet, within seconds the fill bung cracked loose.

didnt strain myself or graze any knuckles in the process lol

so the 3 litres or so of the old fluid is out, and 3.8 litres of redlight shockproof (blue) went in :P

if someone has tightened that bolt on the gearbox, GOOD LUCK GETTING IT OFF

somehow, me and my bro got it off after about 20 mins, we had an extension bar on it, and both of us where under the car, i had my foot on his foot, and we were both really straining to get it undone, but after some popped veins we got it cracked.

but like others have said, you can fill it from the top on gtst's but not in gtr's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...