Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You make yourself look silly by making wild assumptions... sit back and wait for a result.

As for this thread; looking forward to seeing a result from this early in the new year!

I understand that I might look silly by arguing about silly things but..

The ONLY wild assumption around here is that the GTX3582R would be laggier than the GT3582R. It just doesn't make any sense, given the advantages of the wheel. That is a VERY wild assumption.

I understand that I might look silly by arguing about silly things but..

The ONLY wild assumption around here is that the GTX3582R would be laggier than the GT3582R. It just doesn't make any sense, given the advantages of the wheel. That is a VERY wild assumption.

No one has ever said that a GT35R would be laggier that a GTX... Hence you are a douche!

No one has ever said that a GT35R would be laggier that a GTX... Hence you are a douche!

That's not what I said. migmikespec is claiming the GTX is laggier than the same GT:

You must still be a student and have not been out in the "real world" if you believe everything on a data sheet, come on now!

I will raise both eyebrows if a physically bigger comp. wheel (from a GTX35) will respond the same as a standard GT35 at the same power.

I am with the striped horse! :)

I won't call u a douche for not seeing it tho :rolleyes:

Edited by bradsm87

Take the first of the T88-38gk's they had a billet comp wheel, then they went to the cast wheel...any difference....maybe 100 on an Insane RB or JZ, real world...no difference

Borg Warner have been using billet comp wheels for yonks yet no-one has said they are any better than the previous ones

SimonR32 is right; never said it was laggier... I just said it would be surprised if it responded the same at the same power. Is has a larger compressor wheel (shown in catalogue) and hence a higher moment of inertia.

You have no idea what the weight is so you should not comment... maybe it is the same weight or heavier? If that is the case and it responded the same, as I said I would be surprised.

  • Like 1

SimonR32 is right; never said it was laggier... I just said it would be surprised if it responded the same at the same power. Is has a larger compressor wheel (shown in catalogue) and hence a higher moment of inertia.

You have no idea what the weight is so you should not comment... maybe it is the same weight or heavier? If that is the case and it responded the same, as I said I would be surprised.

Yeah but 0.5mm isn't gonna do shit. I wouldn't call that larger. I'd call that the same. Just like with GTR twins, a -9 comp wheel is 59.4mm and a -7 is 60mm. they're the same size. U don't call something 0.5mm bigger in turbo talk bigger. It's the same. There are so many other variables that make the 0.5mm in diameter insignificant.

  • 4 weeks later...

ok so the car is still in the shop........ but thought id throw up a few teasers

Photo0096.jpg

Photo0091.jpg

MANIFOLD ONE:

09-11-10_1333.jpg

MANIFOLD TWO:

P021210_0255.jpg

note that the first manifold sat too close to the strut tower so the turbo was fouling, and now the 2nd manifold is really close to the rocker cover.

also something to note is that both of the exhaust manifolds had to be modified ie grinded/cut on the bottom in sections by Ovaboost because an rb25 manifold will foul on the rb30 block!

you can also see that ovaboost have moved the tensioner to above the water pump

hopefully have dyno results soon!

Edited by Char

spot on mate, ovaboost already had a go, telling me they only want to work with 6boost manifolds/steam pipe,

mostly its because i was impatient and a 6boost manifold would have taken another month + $1400

i had the 2nd manifold machined straight and had the welds/runners checked and modified if needed, but these manifolds are typical for overboosting

i will be getting a 6boobs manifold, likely after the engine has been run in -one to suit my T04Z plans

i rang the shop today, nothing new to report since the compression test, still waiting for some custom fab work. -also im not sure if they sussed a way to close the bonnet

Build a package - every part is to suit another for the power goal.

RB30's are dime a dozzen.

Go the 87mm, why not, every little bit helps. Your only after 450rwhp.

555cc's - up the pressure slightly they will be fine.

Drop the rear down to a .86, there's no need for the 1.06 for 450rwhp especially considering your running 555cc's. It will only introduce more lag and you'll be depressed when something with less hp kicks your arse.

450rwhp - drop a .5 comp cover on it with the .86 rear, perfect match excellent mid range and some very nice response in first and second. Matching GT30 territory but with an additional 30-40rwkw.

Ford did a lot of testing with the .5 front cover, its a very nice match for a GT35R streeter on 98 pump looking for 350rwkw.

What about a clutch, 450rwhp+ will need a considerably better clutch than a good exedy single plate.

Consider the package, don't over do one area only to under do another.

Your running a plenum, be sure not to shove in a set of cams, it will rev want too hard and you will spiral in to the $ of ATI balancers and forged rods, if you don't you'll rev her too hard and whats that KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK, oh sh$#T, maybe thicker oil will fix it... no it won't. :)

In short.. Aim for 450rwhp don't over do it and it will be a cheapish package. Over 400-450rwhp and it starts getting expensive quickly. ATI balancer, high rpm, bigger injectors, cams, porting, more lag but more rev's, double/tripple place clutch then you start stripping gears in the ol' rb25 gearbox, then there's the traction issue that WILL present its self of which again will make you depressed as some one with considerably less HP WILL kick your arse... see where I'm heading.

EDIT: Shove some forward cradle rake in to it - it will make the world of difference to the way it hooks up.

Edited by Amoreuxi

Build a package - every part is to suit another for the power goal.

RB30's are dime a dozzen.

Go the 87mm, why not, every little bit helps. Your only after 450rwhp.

555cc's - up the pressure slightly they will be fine.

Drop the rear down to a .86, there's no need for the 1.06 for 450rwhp especially considering your running 555cc's. It will only introduce more lag and you'll be depressed when something with less hp kicks your arse.

450rwhp - drop a .5 comp cover on it with the .86 rear, perfect match excellent mid range and some very nice response in first and second. Matching GT30 territory but with an additional 30-40rwkw.

Ford did a lot of testing with the .5 front cover, its a very nice match for a GT35R streeter on 98 pump looking for 350rwkw.

What about a clutch, 450rwhp+ will need a considerably better clutch than a good exedy single plate.

Consider the package, don't over do one area only to under do another.

Your running a plenum, be sure not to shove in a set of cams, it will rev want too hard and you will spiral in to the $ of ATI balancers and forged rods, if you don't you'll rev her too hard and whats that KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK, oh sh$#T, maybe thicker oil will fix it... no it won't. :)

In short.. Aim for 450rwhp don't over do it and it will be a cheapish package. Over 400-450rwhp and it starts getting expensive quickly. ATI balancer, high rpm, bigger injectors, cams, porting, more lag but more rev's, double/tripple place clutch then you start stripping gears in the ol' rb25 gearbox, then there's the traction issue that WILL present its self of which again will make you depressed as some one with considerably less HP WILL kick your arse... see where I'm heading.

EDIT: Shove some forward cradle rake in to it - it will make the world of difference to the way it hooks up.

What a top post.

Great information

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • interestingly enough, i found out the answer is yes. doing a flush did fix my recurring A/T light. it might have been because of the trans filter: but that doesn't really make sense to me. the fluid/filter was super dirty. would that increase the pressure in the lines and trigger an A/T light? does the car even have a way of detecting that? i have no idea. i've done 200+ miles after the flush and no A/T light. if my A/B solenoids went bad, i would think the light would've come on. shifts and drives way better now though...at 2k rpm instead of 2500...no hesitation and downshifts when i want it to. 
    • I vote go red. Only because I hate keeping gloss black clean. Was no worries helping out either! Glad you've survived the rain outs of QLD
    • I would again like too thank Matt for his help in me sourcing the detachable hard top for the little red car, without Matt's assistance in inspecting it and locking it down, I can guarantee it would have sold before I could get up to see it,  and as that was the only available NC hardtop in Australia, I consider myself extremely lucky on multiple levels To say I'm more that happy would be an understatement And, it is 100% water tight, I drove through torrential rain coming back south, and by torrential, they type of rain that doing 40kph in a 110kph zone was a real thing, and even then, the standing water on the Hwy was deep enough to throw waves I'm also more than happy that the huge "BEASTS" that Matt calls dogs didn't eat me for lunch, I'm sure the sniffs and licks were more to "taste test" me, over being to friendly Now to work out what colour to get it painted, panel match, or gloss black........first world problems are real
    • Actually I might have figured out. Looks like there is a tab according to google images but it's hidden. Silly me.
×
×
  • Create New...