Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

its all finally coming along with my suspension needs. having just sourced some drag radials and in the midst of combining a soft shock/spring combo and then finally ordering a 1.5LSD, ive started to think about what i can do to make sure drive shaft components stay together, or at least try to :rolleyes:

Don't know much about it but i was wondering;

How does the gearbox, tail shaft and other important components hold up with a 500hp rwd vehicle? what are the common weak links in a r34 gtt. and what should i be focusing on?

the car currently has a Nismo Coppermix Twin Plate which is mroe then enough for the 500hp.

p.s: the car is staying MT

any help much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325847-driveshaft-upgrades/
Share on other sites

Two of these puppies for starters.

post-12712-1277176984_thumb.jpg

Diff and tailshaft don't usually have trouble. You have, are going to upgrade the diff center anyway.

Not sure if the 6 bolt flange on the GTR shafts will bolt up to the GT-T halfshafts that slip into the diff though.

thanks for advise sean,

apologies for the dumb questions but what exactly is that? is that the center diff? how much do these fetch for? and where can they be sourced?

dont aftermarket companies make these sorts of stuff?

how do the Rb25 gearboxes hold up?

Edited by Jap_Muscle

I know that some people put in a whole GTR rear cradle that has all the diff, shafts etc already there, Abo Bob is one member that has done the GTR upgrade, so he would be more helpfull with the details.

The 25 box is basically the same as a late R33GTR gear box so they are pretty strong, especially for RWD. Only weaknesses are third gear and synchros at high rev fast shifts.

Os giken and Par etc are a couple of gearset upgrades available.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...html&hl=gtr

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...html&hl=gtr

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...html&hl=gtr

Buy complete r32/33 GTR rear cradle.

Use the axles, hubs and diff out of it .

Throw the rest in the bin.

If you want a 1.5 way you will have to get that done at same time.

Fairly easy exercise. Wont need to worrie about breaking axles again.

I have just done the conversion into my R34 GTT

Buy complete r32/33 GTR rear cradle.

Use the axles, hubs and diff out of it .

Throw the rest in the bin.

If you want a 1.5 way you will have to get that done at same time.

Fairly easy exercise. Wont need to worrie about breaking axles again.

I have just done the conversion into my R34 GTT

This is the right answer.

I paid $700 from a mate for the the lot from an R32 GTR. My traction control stopped working, and presumably the ABS, although the rear isn't really a problem in most ABS needing situations.

I did it because I snapped a drive shaft.

you would probably wanna upgrade sway bar and traction brackets etc... rb25 box's are probably the strongest outta skyline boxes.... tail shaft will be fine... ur diff on the other hand might not last too long... if your serious and have the $ to back ya idd go borg warner 28 spline or 31 spline diff outta vl or r31... they run 9's in em just fine so you'd think they'd be good but you needa modify/change the brackets etc...

can the billet gtr driveshafts that hi octane fit into the rear without having to mod everything? from what ive seen they come as just the splined shafts

sorry just following up on this

if i put a gtr rear cradle in my car with a gtr 1.5 way diff can i use the hi octane billet drive shaft set

im in the same position as the op just with a shit load more power.

and ill be using the 25 box with os gearset inside it.

  • 4 weeks later...

^ be good to know that as wel. those babies look tough as.

i had a chat to SydneyKid (gary) not long ago and i remember him sayign that the R34 GTT already had GTR hubs and axles when Nissan built them?

i might have misheard but i do remember him saying the GTTs had similar drive train components to the GTRs. can anyone confirm what?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...