Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was keen to see how other peoples vehicle weights compare as I think I am being stooged on my rego, I have had 3 32's now and I don't ever remember paying this much for rego for it

They think the Tare weight on my 32 GTST with no ABS is 1378kg, I took it down the wharf a little while ago and it said 1280 after a I removed 20KG of sound deadner and some extra insulation from the car. So rego for 6 months is $243.70

Edited by BANGN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325901-compare-your-rego-papers/
Share on other sites

The cost of registration in Western Austrlia is calculated on the weight of your vehicle. To put it simply, the more your car weighs, the more you're going to pay.

The most expensive i've seen rego go for is $17,000 for 12months for a mobile crane :cool:

The weight of your vehicle on our records can vary because when each vehicle is weighed it can differ due to but not limited to stereo equiptment, aftermarket parts (some wheels may be heavier etc etc), how much fuel is in your tank at the time and so on.

However in saying that, the difference in the cost of registration between a car that weighs 1300kg to a car that weighs 1500kg is not that much.

Of course there are other factors such as coupe/sedan/4wd/etc, 4/6/8/10/12cylinder, as that all affects the insurance premium and insurance class the govt charges for compulsory 3rd party.

That's the answer to your question, in a nutshell of course :/

I should no, I work for the department :P

The cost of registration in Western Austrlia is calculated on the weight of your vehicle. To put it simply, the more your car weighs, the more you're going to pay.

So moral of the story is older cars are better in terms of paying less for rego like my dad's old Subaru which weight only ~900kg.

Sweet.

yeah each car is weighed indiviually before registration, but not on a yearly basis LOL.

Each car is weighed when brand new or for a new rego etc.

So the only real way to do it is de-register your car, strip it down to a bar chassis, weigh it, show us the weigh bridge certificate and pay rego on the weight of a bare chassis hahahaha

its dick all difference to pay for 12 months instead of 6 months, just reduces the pain on the pocket at the time.

I was just sure I only payed about 219 on my last 32, but thanks for clearing that syfon

they must of weighed mine with a few japs smuggling over in the boot

Edited by BANGN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...