Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was keen to see how other peoples vehicle weights compare as I think I am being stooged on my rego, I have had 3 32's now and I don't ever remember paying this much for rego for it

They think the Tare weight on my 32 GTST with no ABS is 1378kg, I took it down the wharf a little while ago and it said 1280 after a I removed 20KG of sound deadner and some extra insulation from the car. So rego for 6 months is $243.70

Edited by BANGN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325901-compare-your-rego-papers/
Share on other sites

The cost of registration in Western Austrlia is calculated on the weight of your vehicle. To put it simply, the more your car weighs, the more you're going to pay.

The most expensive i've seen rego go for is $17,000 for 12months for a mobile crane :cool:

The weight of your vehicle on our records can vary because when each vehicle is weighed it can differ due to but not limited to stereo equiptment, aftermarket parts (some wheels may be heavier etc etc), how much fuel is in your tank at the time and so on.

However in saying that, the difference in the cost of registration between a car that weighs 1300kg to a car that weighs 1500kg is not that much.

Of course there are other factors such as coupe/sedan/4wd/etc, 4/6/8/10/12cylinder, as that all affects the insurance premium and insurance class the govt charges for compulsory 3rd party.

That's the answer to your question, in a nutshell of course :/

I should no, I work for the department :P

  syfon said:
The cost of registration in Western Austrlia is calculated on the weight of your vehicle. To put it simply, the more your car weighs, the more you're going to pay.

So moral of the story is older cars are better in terms of paying less for rego like my dad's old Subaru which weight only ~900kg.

Sweet.

yeah each car is weighed indiviually before registration, but not on a yearly basis LOL.

Each car is weighed when brand new or for a new rego etc.

So the only real way to do it is de-register your car, strip it down to a bar chassis, weigh it, show us the weigh bridge certificate and pay rego on the weight of a bare chassis hahahaha

its dick all difference to pay for 12 months instead of 6 months, just reduces the pain on the pocket at the time.

I was just sure I only payed about 219 on my last 32, but thanks for clearing that syfon

they must of weighed mine with a few japs smuggling over in the boot

Edited by BANGN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either.   That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much.   It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak.   Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.
    • 15000? ish? Something like that anyway. It wasn;t so much a wear as a tear that then spread. Might have lasted a lot longer if not bothered by just one incident, whatever it was. I took a punt. They are really comfortable and do a good job of holding. My daughter HATED it when I first put them in, and probably still does now. She has sensory issues and hates the way they are all up your business. I'm 197cm and 95kg. Not fat or particularly wide, and the XL size seat is the rigth fit. If I was any fatter it would start to get too snug. Any skinnier and you'd possibly want the smaller width.
    • Mrs rs focus came factory with recaro cs  sportsters in it and they a pain in the ass to get in and out of with the really high bolsters, once you were in them they were one of the most comfortable seats I have ever sat in
    • The NA 2.5 has very little torque. You won't feel much. Those trannies are also a million years old now and it could well be f**ked. First generation electronically controlled autos will often refuse to kick down, ete, etc, depending on what's wrong with them.
    • Yes, but no but yes but no. Those "it's fine up to 500HP" rules and everything else like it were all determined back when the cars were 10 years old. As they are now 30 years old.....what do you reckon the chances of something shitting the bed are? I'd say they are much higher now than they used to be. You might be lucky. You might be unlucky. Spin the wheel and find out. Yeah, nah. It's actually exactly the opposite. Making boost early and having heaps of torque able to be generated right in the middle of the rev range will do more to damage an engine than having to rev it high to make the power. Think about the load on the conrods, bearings, etc, to make 400HP at 4000 rpm, vs 400 HP at 6500 rpm. So someone has already "let the Nissan out" which is how we describe the increased chance of a fiddled with engine to have had something done wrongly. Many more engines that have been opened die than stock ones do - even if you into consideration how they are treated wrt power levels and the like. Again, not saying that yours will definitely have been put back together by a moron. But the possibility does exist. It's still a lottery. Spin the wheel. What weakspots?
×
×
  • Create New...