Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I am new at the skyline scene, trying to gather enough info so i can make better decisions

below is my dyno graph, dyno was done on 24th june 2010, car has FMIC and pod filter, car has not been tuned since

i got it, no other mods are done, is this expected power ?? is it too low for a 1997 R33 GTS-T

what should be the next steps to achive my target power figure of 250 rwkw, an estimated cost

thank you

0681_001.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326222-r33-gts-t-what-next/
Share on other sites

148kw is fairly ordinary from 8psi, check that you don't have a tiny compliance cat choking up the exhaust. Might be worth investing in a high flow catalytic converter, or a full turbo back exhaust (or a catback at least)

To chase 250kw, you are going to need to get a aftermarket ECU and get your stock turbo highflowed (then you can bump up the pressure, as you can't go higher than 10psi safely with the stock turbo wheels). Then to support 250kw, I don't think the stock injectors are up to the task, you will either need bigger injectors or a fuel pressure regulator to squeeze the most out of your existing injectors.

Power sounds right for factory exhaust.

Honestly - use the search function.

The ole "250rwkw - How do i get it" is a common common question.

From a bone stock car, to do it reliably with middle range parts you are looking @ $10,000 IMO.

Thats everything from better tyres, hi-flow turbo to exhaust & injectors.

the most rwkw you will achieve least expensively is around 170 - 180rwkw, once you get to this stage you need to start looking at turbos and injectors, ecu's etc witch is money money money.

youll get there with a 3"zorst and proper dumps/fronts, along with bumping the boost to 10-12psi (the most before you start having issues)

  • 3 weeks later...

See I'd say put the turbo in first, you want be able to boost it yet,which kind of defeats the purpose.

But at least then when you have your injectors and ecu the turbo is already done though...Thats how I did it anyway

IMO Its no use putting the ecu in first cause you,d have to get it tuned, and then pay to get it tuned again after your turbo which is wasted $$$..But putting a turbo in is pretty straight forward if its just a hi-flo, and even at 7psi will still pull harder than you are at 12psi now...

Edited by Arthur T3
Because a it's overated german shite IMHO

I know a guy with a 70s porsche with 700,000kms on it...original engine

if you spent 80k on a GTST and it didnt beat a porsche your doning something wrong lol

True, but ive seen people do it

Luckily i can wipe the floor with a Porsche then :thumbsup:

No doubt, but will your car pass a pit test??

My point is 80k will get you plenty of cars like an evo or better, that are ready to go...And just as fast as alot of these money pit skylines

Edited by Arthur T3
Because a it's overated german shite IMHO

But it's better build quality :thumbsup:

And what's wrong with German precision?

M3s are no lame ducks either and then there are 335i with twin turbo.

Arguably nice cars!

The fun starts when you can smoke a Ferrari in the lower 12 sec range.

Edited by Torques

Well im doing 251kws on mine and i was required to do this:

ECU: Either a Nistune, PFC or VIPEC i choose PFC

Exhaust: 3inch all the way with a highflow cat

Cooler: return flow cooler

Turbo: Stock highflow with a .63 rear housing

Ignition: Splitfire coilpacks unless your factory ones are still good

induction: stock air box with a highflow panel filter or pody

Air flow: z32 or a Q45 i choose a z32

injection: i choose to highflow but i would recommend proper ones like nismo,sard 550cc's or so

fuel pump if your one is about to die, change it to a BOCH 040

do all of these and you'l be doing some good power on standard internals.

Hi!

Would you recommend a high flow turbo, or rather buy a 'proper' one?

Cheers,

Andrew

Well im doing 251kws on mine and i was required to do this:

ECU: Either a Nistune, PFC or VIPEC i choose PFC

Exhaust: 3inch all the way with a highflow cat

Cooler: return flow cooler

Turbo: Stock highflow with a .63 rear housing

Ignition: Splitfire coilpacks unless your factory ones are still good

induction: stock air box with a highflow panel filter or pody

Air flow: z32 or a Q45 i choose a z32

injection: i choose to highflow but i would recommend proper ones like nismo,sard 550cc's or so

fuel pump if your one is about to die, change it to a BOCH 040

do all of these and you'l be doing some good power on standard internals.

Highflows are great. Stock location, no exhaust modding. Come with everything you need to bolt it on.

Plus, all you aussies love it when it still looks factory cos your laws are a bit on the average side. Were heading that way at a guess too. So thats a big bonus in that respect.

I dont know what they go for new these days, but i dare say they would be cheaper than the Garret/HKS equivalents?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
×
×
  • Create New...