Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont know if this is relevant, but my c34 does that on occasion, boost it normally runs is 11psi but sometimes it wont go past 7, turn it off wait a few minutes and its back to normal, I believe in an older thread you guys said this was something to do with the fact that stags run 7psi out of the factory and a computer hicup can cause it to limit itself to factory boost temporarily or something along those lines? So if your running an aftermarket boost controller that may be why.

boost leak or wastegate stuck open?

get your head under the bonnet and check all inlet hoses for splits in hoses etc

have you done any thing to it lately, happened suddenly, getting worse?

Daniel will have a good look tomorrow problem being can,t see damn all around the v donks. Car seemed ok this morning it was when I was going to give a mitsoshitty lancer a seeing to that I realised lack of go, so yes happen suddenly.

Dont know if this is relevant, but my c34 does that on occasion, boost it normally runs is 11psi but sometimes it wont go past 7, turn it off wait a few minutes and its back to normal, I believe in an older thread you guys said this was something to do with the fact that stags run 7psi out of the factory and a computer hicup can cause it to limit itself to factory boost temporarily or something along those lines? So if your running an aftermarket boost controller that may be why.

Chris car runs factory boost so I,ll try again in the morning to see if it was a computer glitch if not back to head scratching or trip to Gold Coast to see specialist.

Gerry, have you ran a check for error codes yet?

The system may know what is wrong and give you an indication of where to look.

Worth a check before you take it to a specialist, could be something easily repairable by yourself or a small time mechanic.

Good luck.

Thanks everybody for your suggestions to my loss of performance but checked everything this morning and all looked ok so took it for a test run and it seems fine so we,ll see, shame really as it would have been a good excuse to get some more horsepower.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It can't be some stupidly proprietary video signal coming out of it that only Nissan's can understand. Surely you can just find some generic camera to stuff in there and use hot melt glue/blu-tac/gaffer tape to hold it in place if need be?
    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
×
×
  • Create New...