Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bugger i got a few R32 gtr looms laying about i would have swapped for the 33 one to make it plug in for you.

Damn mate I didn't even think of if you had one just gave the 33 loom to the client and got him to swap it for a 32 one plus had to get a few little things resistor gtr power steering res etc. You wouldn't think Nissan would change so much in just an engine and 4wd setup. Even the power steering pumps are differnt just little shit like that slows it up

If you boys need any pointers with your build up feel free to hit me a pm or can talk in person im in melb. as well, got this car: http://autospeed.co.nz/cms/title_Grown-Up-...03/article.html

nar mate won't need any pointers it's at my workshop so it will be a ok. Looking to hit the dyno on sunday I just need to pull the 31 off it. Lol

Damn mate I didn't even think of if you had one just gave the 33 loom to the client and got him to swap it for a 32 one plus had to get a few little things resistor gtr power steering res etc. You wouldn't think Nissan would change so much in just an engine and 4wd setup. Even the power steering pumps are differnt just little shit like that slows it up

I just changed the ps pump bracket? I must have run the rb20 bracket and pump as I never bought anything and it fitted. I might have modded it though. Can't rememeber but it would have only been filing. I thought the only difference between a r33gtr loom and r32 in relation to the ecu plug was you had to de-pin 2 wires and swap them around or is it where it plugs into the relays etc that you were having probs with. For resitors you can go to jaycar and make your own resitor pack for less than $5 using 7ohm? ceramic resistors and spend half an hour soldering it up. Worked for years.

The thing that gave me grief was I modded the rb20 knock sensor loom and wired the knock sensors backwards so wasted a couple hours there where I kept getting fault codes.

There isn't really to much that they changed. Only prob 2 things and they are simple fixes.

Hey mate I see I only had a quick look on my phone at the link.

Yeah mate they are a litte different not much but just enough to be a pain. All the plugs on the knock sensor side are all different and a few plugs in the kick panel are different so to save some pain just used a 32 one.

Yeah I have used ceramic resistors before but the client wanted the bay to look like a stock gtr.

I could of used the stock gtst outlet with the gtst power steering res but changed it to a gtr one to run a gtr air box so the gtst line is too short and the gtr line is a differnt angle so found a gtr pump inlet pipe and modded it to fit the gtst pump.

Got it all together and started but need to sort the fuel pump out j forgot about the two stage on the gtst and it's not kicking to 12v so sort that out and onto the dyno didn't spend a lot of time on it had a lot of service work to do

^^ I thought you would have known that by now that ebay is not the number 1 place to get parts :P

You could have got an AFM locally, like Aaron from Import Monster would have had one... Stock R32 GTR one, that is.

Yeah I didn't supply them so hit and miss with used afm's. Might try some afm cleaner on it to see if is just dirty as I am still getting a small voltage out of it but not likely going to fix it.

To be honest I don't get stuff off Aaron I find his prices over the top compared to my guy in Japan and the wrecker I deal with is closer and does better prices than Aaron does

Yeah I didn't supply them so hit and miss with used afm's. Might try some afm cleaner on it to see if is just dirty as I am still getting a small voltage out of it but not likely going to fix it.

To be honest I don't get stuff off Aaron I find his prices over the top compared to my guy in Japan and the wrecker I deal with is closer and does better prices than Aaron does

Yeah true, if you can get it at a lower cost, that would be sweet!

All the better for you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...