Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, I'm just about to purchase the holy grail of rims. I'm pretty sure this is what I'm after but I just wanted to throw this out there before I lay down the cold hard. Got to be 18s to clear brakes. The offset of +22 (not +12?) seems to make sense to me based on a set of 18 x 9 +20s I have. I've trial fitted RE30s with an offset in the teens and they stuck out too far IMHO. I'm hoping to confirm 100% that this size and offset have the concave look too. TE37s only look any good with the right width and offset so hoping to confirm 9.5 +22 is that

Anyone with good pics of rims of this size / offset fitted off to a R32 GTR? Can you post up? I've searched but there is nothing I can find out there that is 100% specific to whar I need to confirm.

Thanks.

EDIT, think I found one. 18 x 9.5 +22....but keep them coming.

post-46395-1277527700_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326392-te37s-18-x-95-22/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Er, appreciate the feedback, but maybe you can be more specific about it as '+12 or ghey etc' is not that helpful, even if it is amusing (Hamish, you are a fitment whore). My 9" +20's sit very nicely in my guards. If you take a 9.5" +22 it sits just a little more flush. Lipping the guards with the +12 does not sit well with me as it is kind of messing with things too far - that's my philosophy. Plus I've had a specific experience with +12 with RE30s and they were proud of the guards IMHO. Does anyone have specific experience with these rims on this car? Does anyone have photos?

Nissan GTR, I' actually not sure what you're saying. Don't like TE37s? Fair enough but not helpful in terms of my question. Anything else to add?

Bear in mind my car is not a Chapel St show pony, but sees regular track time so 'low as' and rims and tyres hard up in the guards is not what I really want.

I'm also interested in the 'concave' look, so any further comments in this regard would be good.

Keep it constructive guys.

Pretty sure all the 9.5 TE's are the concave look? and +22 in a 9.5 will be spot on. Will still allow you to fit wind tyre's. Yes the +12 wud look porn though, but def need guard mods if you want to run wide tyre's.

Damn it will look good, jealous.

Er, appreciate the feedback, but maybe you can be more specific about it as '+12 or ghey etc' is not that helpful, even if it is amusing (Hamish, you are a fitment whore). My 9" +20's sit very nicely in my guards. If you take a 9.5" +22 it sits just a little more flush. Lipping the guards with the +12 does not sit well with me as it is kind of messing with things too far - that's my philosophy. Plus I've had a specific experience with +12 with RE30s and they were proud of the guards IMHO. Does anyone have specific experience with these rims on this car? Does anyone have photos?

Nissan GTR, I' actually not sure what you're saying. Don't like TE37s? Fair enough but not helpful in terms of my question. Anything else to add?

Bear in mind my car is not a Chapel St show pony, but sees regular track time so 'low as' and rims and tyres hard up in the guards is not what I really want.

I'm also interested in the 'concave' look, so any further comments in this regard would be good.

Keep it constructive guys.

Heres my constructive critcism .if you get TE 37s they will need to be +12 OFFSET - stick them out of the guards as much as possible - aggressive , they will look mad , If you get +22 they will look like hubcaps. My rims are cross speed +12 offset . Personally R33 GTR wheels look better than TE37s.

post-68456-1277554265_thumb.jpg

Heres my constructive critcism .if you get TE 37s they will need to be +12 OFFSET - stick them out of the guards as much as possible - aggressive , they will look mad , If you get +22 they will look like hubcaps. My rims are cross speed +12 offset . Personally R33 GTR wheels look better than TE37s.

Dude your missing his point, he is not going for the 'FULLY SICK HELLA FLUSH LOOK BRO'. This car will be seeing the track so the right offset is crucial. I know that +12 will cause rubbing problems both front and rear. The car leans quite heavilly on the track especially with any sort of reasonable semi slick. BBGTR here on the forums runs 18 x 9.5 +22 CE28N's and has not had any problems with rubbing.

LotusGTR, maybe PM BBGTR for his opinion, I'd say he will steer you in the +22 direction.

Just my 2c...

Dude your missing his point, he is not going for the 'FULLY SICK HELLA FLUSH LOOK BRO'. This car will be seeing the track so the right offset is crucial. I know that +12 will cause rubbing problems both front and rear. The car leans quite heavilly on the track especially with any sort of reasonable semi slick. BBGTR here on the forums runs 18 x 9.5 +22 CE28N's and has not had any problems with rubbing.

LotusGTR, maybe PM BBGTR for his opinion, I'd say he will steer you in the +22 direction.

Just my 2c...

yeah, thanks Jack. Kinda the reply type I aS hoping for. Perhaps a different subforum might have been better. I'll pm Andrew. I'm pretty sure re the +22 fitment is right for practical purposes, but the flat look TEs are no good in my book. So, for TE37, it's +22, so long as they have the concave look. If not, no TE37s. If anyone has other pics of the +22 fitment then pls let me know.

yeah, thanks Jack. Kinda the reply type I aS hoping for. Perhaps a different subforum might have been better. I'll pm Andrew. I'm pretty sure re the +22 fitment is right for practical purposes, but the flat look TEs are no good in my book. So, for TE37, it's +22, so long as they have the concave look. If not, no TE37s. If anyone has other pics of the +22 fitment then pls let me know.

Yeah I would say it would have been better to post it up in the suspension/wheel/tyre subforum. Asking this sort of question in this subforum has resulted in answers regarding what would look better. I guess your question has confused everyone into thinking what would suit a show car, not a track car.

Either way, +22 will still give you the 'concave' look. They will not be flat with that width and offset.

Cheers,

Jack

Thanks Jack. I should have made that clearer in the first post. It is about form and function. For the money I want both, or it ain't worth it. Thems rims ain't cheap, so they've got to be perfect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...