Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Creep Issues


Recommended Posts

The standard solenoid isnt even being used, all i have is a vac line hooked straight into the wastegate, so its seeing the same presure as the boost guage. The boost guage is working, i can feel it hit R&R as it hits about 12psi.

The diaphragm is inside the actuator? so it would have been changed when i changed the actuator

Yes the diaphragm is inside the actuator. Did u buy it brand new? i doubt u did.

Either way u cant assume anything is ok, if u overlook a potential cause u might be chasing this problem forever. lol

It wont take long to see if the actuator holds pressure anyway.

Seriously tho, have u had it a workshop? or had it tuned at all with the highflow? tune wont cause this, but im surprised ur car hasnt either

a) blown up

b) running like a bag, hitting fuel cut etc all the time

c) maybe its simply hitting R&R and this is having a massive effect on boost control

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes, mine would spike to about 17 psi, even removing my boost controller it would go to 14 psi. as soon as i got the injectors and power fc fitted, i could tune it down to 11 psi no problems, i got a highflow turbo as well. i may be wrong but you have all the same problems i had, i even changed my split dump to a bellmouth but nothing changed, everyone was saying ,check the actuator, check for leaks, but in the end it was the tune, a rich tune will cause extra gasses in the exhaust spooling up your turbo beyond what your wastegate can handle. once it is leaned out and ignition sorted it should go away

my saga

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ov...ml&hl=boost

It's more the retarded ignition event that will help spool the turbo. Unless it's that rich and retard that the combustion event is occuring in the exh - that's what we call anti lag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had the exact same problem as the OP, so i installed an ebc, and it seemed to hold its boost a lot better.

from what i learnt trying to figure this out just like the OP is, i think it was because at around 10 ish the f/a mixture changes and that effects the output which your turbo/wastegate dosnt understand nor see, so it overboosts.

but another thing i remember, was that the stock springs in the actuator become weak after a while and dont seem to hold as stable? does that sound right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A tune can cause this. Heavily retarded timing and shit loads of fuel will cause boost to go all over the place. As others have said, that is what antilag is. Mine is currently doing this because we have pulled the timing out of it. Not saying this is the OP's problem, but just stating it can happen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
×
×
  • Create New...