Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Recent update.

Just inspected another R33 gts-t today. The last one was stick, this one was auto. This time, I had the guy drive it for me and show me the car's response when boost kicks in. Being a cold and rainy day today, he drove around normal to warm it up a bit for about 5 min. After that, he switched the selector gear to "2" and went the way through with it. Being a stock car, boost kicked in at 3000rpm and it held on till around 5500rpm when he let go. ( was in a residential area, so can't boost it all the way.)

Though being auto, when he was driving it normal in 1st and 2nd gear, the car feels like absolutely normal like it should. It didn't have that weird draggy feeling the first one had. Some of the guys here suggested a bigger turbo being installed into the first car. Possible, but imo it shouldn't affect the performance below 3000rpm. The first car felt like it was towing a bus at 1st gear and this one feels totally alright. So back to the first car, I would suspect that something somewhere needs an eye on it and the owner is either hiding it or not knowing it. Feels like a clutch or gear slip, but can't confirm.

the vl isnt a p plate car :whoops:

Oh but it is.

Taken from the Vicroads website

From 6 July 2009, drivers issued with a probationary licence on or after 1 July 2007 may drive some lower performance turbocharged or supercharged vehicles. The definition of a lower performance turbocharged or supercharged vehicle is a vehicle with 6 cylinders or less that is:

  • turbocharged or supercharged with a power to weight ratio of less than 100kW per tonne
  • turbocharged or supercharged with a power to weight ratio between 100kW and 125kW per tonne and that is considered to be a family type vehicle (4 seats or more) rather than a sports type vehicle. A family type vehicle is a sedan, station wagon or hatch normally used to carry families/passengers with 4 or more seats and are equipped with child restraint anchorages. A family type vehicle does not include a sports car (two door coupe).

So a factory VL Turbo would be perfectly legal as its under 125kw per ton

Nothing wrong with a N/A if your on your Ps or using as a daily to and from work, both in which I do... its been great never had a problem even when I get pulled over on the way to work (happened a few times now) they come up look at the brakes and go.. "bugger non turbo"

lol they actually say bugger non turbo?

dont buy an auto gtst, resell value is crap, you are restricted in terms of mods and it will annoy you

the manual GTST it light years ahead and is worth every extra cent

please please please do not get an auto GTST

the auto GTST also runs less boost than the manual

this is why it doesnt feel as a quick

auto is 5 psi factory and manual is 7psi

that's pretty debateable from a speed aspect lolz.

HOONDAs are where it's at for the p platers

ahem... golf R32's. 3.2L V6 (well, it's almost an I6) hot hatch.

y'all nga's be living in the 1990's still. N/A p-plater friendly lightweight cars rocking AWD and massive torque in lightweight bodies have been readily available in the past 10 years. just that most p-platers can't afford that shit on maccas wages.

Lol @ 5psi. How would you even feel that? :bunny: My car was 13psi factory. CT20B FTW.

5 PSI on a larger turbo = 13PSI on a turbo the size of your wiener.

Recent update.

Just inspected another R33 gts-t today. The last one was stick, this one was auto. This time, I had the guy drive it for me and show me the car's response when boost kicks in. Being a cold and rainy day today, he drove around normal to warm it up a bit for about 5 min. After that, he switched the selector gear to "2" and went the way through with it. Being a stock car, boost kicked in at 3000rpm and it held on till around 5500rpm when he let go. ( was in a residential area, so can't boost it all the way.)

Though being auto, when he was driving it normal in 1st and 2nd gear, the car feels like absolutely normal like it should. It didn't have that weird draggy feeling the first one had. Some of the guys here suggested a bigger turbo being installed into the first car. Possible, but imo it shouldn't affect the performance below 3000rpm. The first car felt like it was towing a bus at 1st gear and this one feels totally alright. So back to the first car, I would suspect that something somewhere needs an eye on it and the owner is either hiding it or not knowing it. Feels like a clutch or gear slip, but can't confirm.

Whereabouts is the first car you drove? Perhaps finding someone with a bit of experience who is willing to give you a hand might help?

If it's anywhere between Hurstbridge and Burwood I'm happy to help out. I've been playing with cars for a long, long time and although have only been in my Skyline for 7 months, I'm pretty up to speed on where to look and what a good one should be like.

  • 2 weeks later...
funkeh you missed out the high maintenence and purchase costs of the Golf (that and they are perceived as a bit of a fag/soccer mum car)

just give the habibs and muzzas about 10 years to catch up with the hot hatch trends sweeping across the world.

nga's need to drive a scirocco or abarth SS.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
    • Hello friends, i have a good friend in Canada that looking for a good condition 1993 GTR around him please if one or know someone around you that is willing to let it go please let me know so that i can inform him.....Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...