Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys, this sound has become apparent since the last oil change (now on roughly 6000kms thanks to Canberra - Melbourne return, doing again this wednesday), or a stack of suspension/steering work I had done at the same time, and only ever happens on a cold engine though it lives outside so is much more likely to do it when I start it in the morning after freezing overnight.

The only thing I can relate the sound to would be the sound you make when sucking the last bit out of a milkshake or thickshake through a straw - you know, the sound you're embarrassed to make sometimes coz it's loud. It appears to be coming from under the front of the car, hence engine.

It is able to be "recreated" as I reverse down my driveway, as it's relatively steep and places the car on quite an incline. Has only done it on one occasion before I've even moved the car, which was this morning, hence why I'm writing this. As I'm reversing down the driveway, when I touch the brakes or bring the car to a stop, this is when the sound occurs. It's as though the car stopping causes whatever is making this sound to move backward through momentum, and do it's thing.

I don't understand the insides of the sump, and how oil pickups etc work, but from an ignorant point of view I have suggested something like the oil moving to the back of the sump as I brake on my driveway....but this has been dismissed (not to mention why does it only happen on a cold engine?)

Whatever's causing this can also be felt through the firewall via my foot on the clutch, so something is definitely vibrating or something.

Mods are only 3.5" turbo back, FMIC, bleed valve @11psi...suspension is bushes bushes bushes, ISC coilovers, rack mounts, front+rear upper camber arms, rear traction, and HICAS lock...though I don't think any of this will be the culprit...

/end wall of text, thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326594-mysterious-sound-on-cold-start/
Share on other sites

Bleed your cooling system and make sure the heater is turned on when you do so and try to do it on a hill so the air moves towards the front of the engine.

Sounds like the water is moving about. It's the sound it will make when air is travelling through the system.

yes, it definitely sounds like air through a liquid system, though what do you mean by "cooling" system? As in, water/radiator etc etc, or aircon?

And if you're correct, this wouldn't be detrimental at all would it? Not causing damage that is

generally wont have harmed your system, as long as engine temps havent been out of control it will be fine.

cooling system refers to water/radiator. when you bleed/flush your cooling system you need to have the heater controls set to hot and turned on so that the cooling system is fully open and you dont trap any air in the heating system. the best way i find to absolutely guarantee no air in the system is to have the radiator cap off, pull off one of the heater hoses on the firewall and place your thumb over the end, then shove a running garden hose into the fitting on the firewall. when the air bubbles stop coming out the top of the radiator, system is bled. should take up to 15secs or so (dont take forever doing this or eventually your anti-freeze will become plain water) quickly remove garden hose and re-attach the heater hose to the fitting on the firewall and replace radiator cap.

this method is yet to fail me.

Edited by jonboy

ah ok, makes sense now ;) since it's going into the shop on wednesday for brake machining/general service, I'll get them to do that too.

Aftermarket gauge has never red more than 90 deg, and will sit on 80 - 85 during normal operation, so overheat definitely hasn't occurred :)

Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated! Will update with results later in the week for future reference

will have to have that looked at too....I've noticed my fluid was low a while back, though it hasn't gone down since I topped it up....

Dropping it off at workshop tonight so they can leave it outside over night and start it when the thing is frozen in the morning, hopefully it makes the same noises and they can work it out.

OH just realised though...it's making a sound before I even touch the wheel, but the main sound is after I've turned it (not directly after, but the steering has moved before I ever notice it)...still reckon the rack is possible?

Mine makes the noise before turning the steering wheel aswell. The power steering pump is driven by a pully off the engine, so if your engine is pumping, so is the power steering pump (whether or not you are turning the wheel or not).

* thats my take on it, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

the pump is turning yes, but the rack itself doesn't receive anything until you turn the wheel....well at least that MY take on it lol.

Either way, at least you've given me something else to suggest when I drop it off...some small part of me wants it to be a big bad monster so I can get the thing built lol...oh I don't know :)

Yeah air in liquid (be it water, power steering pump....even oil, though that's VERY unlikely) seems like the culprit...

And yes Pat, I want to have to rebuild lol, coz upgrades are coming very soon, so I could same some labour cost in the long run by having it built now rather than when it eats shit. I already suspect a bearing on the exhaust cam is on the way out...downside of waiting 'til she pops, is that I could make a big mess.

Mechanic suspects power steering pump. They only heard a faint sound once on first cold start, but nothing afterward.

Ah well, at least they're 99% sure there's nothing bung in the engine, which is fine in my books.

Thanks for the input nonetheless guys :/

Bump.

OK so whether is be coincidence that it has stfu or what, my car has not made this mysterious sound once since the service.

Unless the workshop flushes the water system without telling me (which I doubt, as when there's a highish labour charge, they list everything they did), then the only thing they did that would change anything was an oil+filter change.

Other work done was replace a coilpack (as it developed a miss while they were checking it out - I don't doubt this either) and machine the discs/deglaze pads (front)

So is it coincidence that it resolved itself at the same time, or is it possible this sound had something to do with oil?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a fair chance that my bushes are Nismo, because I'm reasonably sure that when asked the question (when putting the subframe into the car in ~2012) "What bushes do you want to run?", I'm pretty sure I would have answered "The stiff ones!". I had to put some silicone grease onto the GKTech inserts I jammed into them last week, because the bushes were quite resistant to having something jammed up their jacksies. So, I reckon you'll be best off doing Nismo + inserts. And, if I'd known you had PU bushes in the subframe AND PU pineapples, I perhaps would have said earlier that that's probably not a good idea. The pineapples are only intended to work with the stock type bushes, because those have a crush tube (which is what makes it end up looking like there is sloppy space in there - but doesn't, because the crush tube does make contact steel to steel) and the pineapples live in the space between the subframe's outer tube and the lower washer/bracket. But the PU bushes don't leave the space in the same way that the stock format ones do, and they do end up fighting for space. Order some bushes and collars and get to it.
    • Thats the current state of the reo. Bit ew, but GTR Reo and supporting bars are $2000, and 2nd hand GTT ones are $1000... More engine disassembly. The good news is   Various LS weird sounds are apparently normal Everything coming out is in perfect condition The bad news is: Everything coming out is in perfect condition It looks like whoever assembled this engine ~25,000km ago was telling the truth with what's in it and how they did it. Even things I was unsure of like the timing chain - But it's a brand new double row timing chain, spaced perfectly. They even cut up the stock windage tray to keep it instead of being lazy and to work with the baffle. Cam, Heads, springs, LS7 lifters, Pushrods - All look new and have obviously been working perfectly. In other news, we removed the pineapples that were loaded below the superpro subframe bushes. They look a fair bit munted and have deformed the poly bushes that are 'above' them. I'm telling myself that now that there's space 'under' the bush between the little cup that bolts in... that having a pineapple wedged there was bad and basically made the rear end solid. The pineapple and the superpro bush are ... equally deformed (i.e they have deformed one another from being smashed together). We'll see how it goes with bushes only. I am sure this cope will fail and the answer will be to drop the subframe and put nismo rubber bushes in there instead. $400 worth of gaskets and ARP head bolts to replace perfectly new looking gaskets that absolutely weren't leaking  and were installed perfectly with great care - because god damnit.    
    • Why bother? Keep them under 1bar and be happy, I had it for 10 years and never had an issue. once you go beyond that the budget blows out fast and then keeps on blowing out 
    • I'd still recommend rebuilding the turbos too. That will eat up a lot of the budget especially if you aren't willing to put in the labor to R&R the turbos yourself but it's a huge risk to ignore it at this point.
    • Can't help it, its an illness. 
×
×
  • Create New...