Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi...... I have questions that I don't know where I can ask except here

1. If I have a car and I want it to respray, how much does it cost for foing it? For example, FC3S

2. according to 1), if i change its color, is it hard to tell the officer for changing the new color and how much does it cost for telling the change???

3. If I go to a garage and tell them to change its engine to a new one, is it hard to tell the change to officer? My friend told me that it is very hard because there have to be an engineer who garuntee the engine change and etc. and how much does it cost for the change????

4. How much does it cost for RWC and rego, if the car hasn't registered????

Thank you very much.

Ake

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32672-cost-of-respraying-and-etc/
Share on other sites

lol @ r34gtt-R abo bob for both being a wiseass..

1 & 2 - There is no paperwork to get the car resprayed or colour changed, so you can just go ahead and do that.

3. if the engine is a DIFFERENT type totally to the old one (say RB26DETT engine off a GTR) then you will need to get it fully engineered which can cost a bit. If its the SAME engine you can just pop it in, however you'll probably want to transfer the engine number to it, so both the plate and the engine number match. Vicroads can probably do that.

4. If the car hasn't been registed or is unregisted .. Vicroads needs to inspect the car before it will be registered again, and they're pretty strict about it (more than a garage) so NO modifications. A RWC is about $70, but that is just the cerficate itself if everything passes. If it don't, you gotta go get it all fixed up. After that you just pay the normal rego (i think) which is $520 or something.

This means......

If I change the color from white to grey........I can freely do it.

If I wanna change the engine , for example, RB20DET -> RB25DET/RB26DETT or 13B -> 13BT, I have to get it engineered (or not ?? :blah: ?? ).

I'm just a bit newbie of this things.......Thanks for helping me.

This means......

If I change the color from white to grey........I can freely do it.

yup..

If I wanna change the engine , for example, RB20DET -> RB25DET/RB26DETT or 13B -> 13BT, I have to get it engineered (or not ??  ?? ).

yup..

[2] AkEaKe, i think what you're asking is if you have to inform vic roads if u respray the car a different colour? thinking about it logically, yes, you would because when you first register a car i think you have to let them know what colour it is. if this is changed its important for identification purposes to let the "officer" (vic roads) know about it. that said i doubt many people tell vic roads

[4] stamp duty is payable at the rate of $8 for every $200 or part thereof (from memory). for my R33 GTS i piad $1025 this included one years rego + stamp duty.

Ahh bayside blue, yes he can do any colour. He just needs the paint code. What colour is your car atm? I can only assume that big $$$$$ are involved with changing the colour completely (ie going from wine to TV2) because of the extra work involved.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...