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Gt3076r 4" Inlet To Stock Afm

lilcrash

By lilcrash,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

How much boost do you run? I'd be too concerned about the joiner blowong off the back of the afm. There is no lip on the afm to help hold it on. Ive also heard that Z32 afm's can be abit funny when used in a blow through system.

d1_drifter Community Regular

d1_drifter

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's a fairly common practice relocating an AFM to cold-side piping when upgrading turbos, especially for those who prefer not to/can't use an ECU like a d-jetro or an EMS 8860 which do away with the AFM and run a MAP sensor.

Haven't heard of many cases where the joiner has blown off the AFM, but I suppose it does make it susceptible given it clamps onto a flat surface.

Edit: Also, to the OP, is this a high mount setup or on a low mount?

Edited by d1_drifter
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

For a flat surface. Drill say four small holes and put in self tappers. This gives total resistance to the hose blowing off. When the clamp comes up against the heads of the s/ts it cant move. Easy and cheap.

When setting the front facing plenum all the flat surface joins blew off. Why wont this SOB go???? LOL

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)
Where is the bov in that engine bay??? Can anyone confirm the z32 not working in a blow through. Or will stock be fine for 16-18psi?

thats Simon-R32's drift car LINK to Build Thread. and being a track car having a bov probably isn't something he is worried about.

the maf will work blow through, it just depends on how you set it up, i've just heard that the Z32 can be a bit sensitive as to where you place it. couple of things to keep in mind are, the afm housing isn't designed to take pressure, and unless you have a good oil catch can setup you maf will need constant cleaning and the oil contamination may even reduce its life. i have seen a method where the hotwire was removed from the plastic housing and mounted into a steel i/c pipe which would help with the pressure and joiners blowing off.

a couple other options if you really want to keep a larger size inlet is to get a Q45 afm, they are 90mm which is just under 4". or track down a ford lightning maf which is also 90mm i believe, and is compatible with nistune.

but reducing the turbo inlet down to 3" is fine and will save you alot of trouble. i have my GT35 setup like this runnning 16psi (soon to be more) and without an issue, GT35 also has a 4" inlet. personally i wouldn't worry about it, 3" pipe will be easier in the low mount position, its very tight for space down there once all the i/c piping is in.

Edited by QWK32
darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
Posted
I got a 4" to 3" silicone reducer and made up a S/S inlet pipe. Just welded in some nipples for the oil breather and bov return. Then used another silicine joiner to connect the steel pipe to the afm.

I did the same with a alloy bend and retained the stock airbox and airflow meter location. Keeps things nice and quiet. A few people have complained how loud the antisurge 4" inlet can be with no airbox and a pod used instead.

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
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sorry if this is getting repetative but i want to be sure im doing to right thing as i need my car everyday so off the road time needs to be minimal. does everyone agrees gt3076r with .82 rear/oem bolt pattern, 4"-3" reducer off turbo then alloy/steele pipe to afm, 2" elbow into stock i/c piping??

only concern i have is will my car run on 14psi as it sits or do i need to do the fuel pump and nistune before i can drive it?

darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
Posted
sorry if this is getting repetative but i want to be sure im doing to right thing as i need my car everyday so off the road time needs to be minimal. does everyone agrees gt3076r with .82 rear/oem bolt pattern, 4"-3" reducer off turbo then alloy/steele pipe to afm, 2" elbow into stock i/c piping??

only concern i have is will my car run on 14psi as it sits or do i need to do the fuel pump and nistune before i can drive it?

.82 rear housing does not come in an OEM 6 bolt pattern to the dump pipe. It is 5 bolt, so custom dump pipe

Need a 2" to 2.5" silicone reducing bend onto intercooler pipe. You will need to replace the cooler pipe as well to clear the 3" inch inlet pipe.

I could keep going, but I won't because fitting a gt3076r IW .82 is not straight forward and EVERYTHING need to be modified to get it to fit. Allow alot more than one day to fit if you do not have everything ready before hand.

I am running 14.5psi with mine making 245rwkw, so you will need the support mods to suit

What EXACT turbo do you have and what fitting parts do you have as well?

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