Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

f**k the mines ecu right off to start with its not doing you any favours

I concur! Get rid of the mines ecu for starters.

I used to get the same spiking as you did.

1) get rid off the tap, and T off the wastegate from your jpipe nipple using a thin pipe - That will tell you whether your taps faulty or not. You should see around 7psi solid.

2) Check your timing. This turned out to be my issue as it was set to 12.5 rather then 15.

3) Check plugs/coils to see if its misfiring

4) Check for any vacumm leaks

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

alright to clear up everyone " hating " on me i took the car into the tuner and he plugged it into the computer.

turns out i have a f***ed O2 sensor and a vac leak i already knew about and check to see if my knock sensors are plugged in and if they are and its still doing the same after everything else is fixed then its them.

SO!

no the ecu isnt crap! i said previously i am saving for a power fc or something along those lines and for 500 bucks the mines is the cheapest and best thing i could afford to pump up my power straight away. then once i have enough money i can sell it for around the same price i bought it for. so no loss.

surprising that no one mentioned the O2 sensor for this problem because its not reading correct air fuel mixture right so therefore as a safe guard retarding timing and wasting a lot of my fuel.

he said bring it back in once they are fixed and its going nuts for a power run to check everything is safe which i was going to do anyway.

so i will post on here when they are all fixed and if it goes as good as it should be.

I thought I read it all... but what car again???? Also what turbo????

I'm assuming RB20DET? if so with those mods working well i'd expect around 140 - 150 rwkw, not 200rwkw - as the limit is the turbo. (If RB20 + RB25 / VG30 turbo expect around 180 - 200 depending on boost - but again this depends how much boost you want to run due to ceramic and steel wheels in the turbo)

AFAIK the mines ecu will still R & R - it is just a different map to provide better gains to suit a specific setup. The FCD is a cheap option to get around the R & R when running more boost.

If it's RB25DET then with the addition of a FCD and R & R not taking over (regardless of std / mines ecu) i'd expect around 180 - 200rwkw from 10 - 14psi.

At the end of the day, as everyone has said take it to your tuner they should be able to offer cheap options as simple as a HKS FCD and power run with slight tweak to get AFR's decent to the PFC you speak of and Full MAP tune.

sorry forgot to mention its rb25det with standard turbo

O2 sensor wont affect power only fuel consumption. Under WOT the ecu doesnt care what the O2 sensor is saying.

The vacuum leak is an issue though, you would be loosing boost pressure.

yea its the gromet thing forgot the name, but it plugs up into the cam cover on the middle side of the left one. you think gasket goop would help seal it up? lol just something thats free to maybe save me finding a new one haha

my mate has a series 2 r33 . it has a nz made exhaust . a chinese front mount . a hks (POS) foam pod filter and a r32 waste gate actuator . it has done a 13.4 at ruapuna on an un prepped track on its first outing

stock ecu

and lots of passion.

if your "tuner" thinks its the o2 sensor then tell him hes an idiot and find someone else

we plugged it into the computer and the o2 sensor fault came up. tested the sensor on the computer and its not reading right and the air fuel mixture is well over 100. it should be on 100 or very close. it was around 115 then resetting itself. so its running way to rich and retarding alot of timing. how else is it caused when everything else is fine on the car besides the knock sensors and o2 sensor?

its the pcv grommet . go to cockram nissan and get a new one for $7.50

or is the pcv valve leaking? (bypassing)

are you mates with scott and blair by chance?

and its the seel/grommet bit that doesnt seal properly.

alright to clear up everyone " hating " on me i took the car into the tuner and he plugged it into the computer.

turns out i have a f***ed O2 sensor and a vac leak i already knew about and check to see if my knock sensors are plugged in and if they are and its still doing the same after everything else is fixed then its them.

SO!

no the ecu isnt crap! i said previously i am saving for a power fc or something along those lines and for 500 bucks the mines is the cheapest and best thing i could afford to pump up my power straight away. then once i have enough money i can sell it for around the same price i bought it for. so no loss.

surprising that no one mentioned the O2 sensor for this problem because its not reading correct air fuel mixture right so therefore as a safe guard retarding timing and wasting a lot of my fuel.

he said bring it back in once they are fixed and its going nuts for a power run to check everything is safe which i was going to do anyway.

so i will post on here when they are all fixed and if it goes as good as it should be.

no, the mines ecu is crap! did mines specifically ask exactly which mods u had and then made the ecu to suit? i dont think so, those ecu's are pre-tuned to suit god knows what (im guessing stage 1 mods) and they've probably just got a leaner air-fuel mixture and advanced timing to squeeze out a lil more power but how safe is it?

if u wanna be cheap just run the standard ecu atleast it'll be safe, and for what you've got u could run an safcII, i made 30rwhp from a 30minute tune with mine (same mods as u). then sell the mines ecu and u'll have 250 in ur wallet.

for 500 u could skip the safcII and mines ecu and get nistune, since u wanna be cheap dont even think about a power fc, nistune will be fine

only trying to help mate do whatever u want its your car

no, the mines ecu is crap!

Seen many work very well first hand. Never heard of one actually running bad, they are based on a stock car with no more than breathing mods. I personally believe limitations/expectations can be taken as the same as stock, with dyno time to support.

Have although read LOTS of non-user feedback :D

no the ecu isnt crap! i said previously i am saving for a power fc or something along those lines and for 500 bucks the mines is the cheapest and best thing i could afford to pump up my power straight away. then once i have enough money i can sell it for around the same price i bought it for. so no loss.

surprising that no one mentioned the O2 sensor for this problem because its not reading correct air fuel mixture right so therefore as a safe guard retarding timing and wasting a lot of my fuel.

Ok firstly find a proper performance mechanic, not one that uses the nissan diagnostic tool only to find your problems.

2ndly the mines ECU is complete rubbish, sell it and put your stock ECU back in, if anything the mines ECU is going to be worse because its just got a shitty chip that is designed for japanese fuel and climates, not australian ones causing R&R to happen much sooner. All they do is advance the timing massively and richen it up, neither are what you want, all it will do is cause R&R sooner and probably cause the motor to ping its tits off killing the motor in a short period of time. Do not listen to advice from whoever told you to buy that ECU again.

Now once you have found a proper nissan performance mechanic and reinstalled your standard ecu I highly recommend a nistune. A nistune will be installed into your standard ECU and will allow the mechanic to tune it as if it was a full aftermarket ECU, they can tune fuel and ignition along with a load of other features.

This will fix the R&R issue you are having, it will let them lean out the mixtures and add extra timing all over the map. This will allow you to run you 13psi of boost, it will give you way more power and better fuel economy.

A proper mechanic who tunes and installs nistune modules regularly should be able to confirm whether or not your O2 sensor needs to be replaced.

we plugged it into the computer and the o2 sensor fault came up. tested the sensor on the computer and its not reading right and the air fuel mixture is well over 100. it should be on 100 or very close. it was around 115 then resetting itself. so its running way to rich and retarding alot of timing. how else is it caused when everything else is fine on the car besides the knock sensors and o2 sensor?

The reason it is running rich is that is what the ECU tune you just paid money for is, rich. The reason the timing is retarded is they advance the timing so far that the ecu detects very high knock levels and winds it back way past what even the standard tune would have. This is 100% expected as you have a tune that was designed for a different engine configuration than yours. Even with the same mods just the fuel and climate change is enough to put the tune completely out of whack.

Seen many work very well first hand. Never heard of one actually running bad, they are based on a stock car with no more than breathing mods. I personally believe limitations/expectations can be taken as the same as stock, with dyno time to support.

Have although read LOTS of non-user feedback :)

It is not the fact the ECU is bad, it is the fact you are putting an untuned ECU into your car, even if you had a $5k motec computer and didn't tune it our opinion would be it is shit. The whole point of replacing an ECU is so you can get it tuned to suit the specific car, chipping it is just dumb waste of time and money 90% of the time.

since u wanna be cheap dont even think about a power fc, nistune will be fine

Nistune is as good as powerFC is my opinion, if anything it is better as it retains the stock ecu making it 'legal' when going through inspections, contains all the standard features as well meaning you get great idle when flicking the ac on off etc. I know you can get this with a PFC but it isn't as easy.

I will probly take the car into NZEFI later in the week and get them to see whats going on. but not looking to spend that much more money on this thing. with the mods i have and the ecu it should be around 200kw as is. but i think its more around 140kw as on the factory ecu my best quarter mile time was only 15.5 wtf!

so now you all know how slow my car really is.

I'd be surprised if it was making more than 120kw with the tune so out of whack that it is winding the timing back due to knock levels.

Edited by Rolls
we plugged it into the computer and the o2 sensor fault came up. tested the sensor on the computer and its not reading right and the air fuel mixture is well over 100. it should be on 100 or very close. it was around 115 then resetting itself. so its running way to rich and retarding alot of timing. how else is it caused when everything else is fine on the car besides the knock sensors and o2 sensor?

its already been mentioned but you must have missed it so here it is in caps

O2 SENSOR IS IGNORED UNDER FULL LOAD, it is only ever used under cruise loads and only when throttle and rpm are constant.

what does the 100 refer to? units of awesome?

as said several times, get rid of the mines ecu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
    • Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
    • I have a r34 sedan 1999 manual converted need some help with my speedometer it only reads upto 98km and then stops currently still running the auto cluster any easy fixes no speedo drive is connected yet, if someone has a video for wiring up the manual speedo sensor with the auto cluster please send through 
×
×
  • Create New...