Is My Car Impossible To Make Faster!?

[Rolls]

what does the 100 refer to? units of awesome?

Probably an oldschool gas analyser which reports in some custom units. Or maybe it is reading PPM of CO2 or something.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

did someone say mx5?

[JonnoHR31]

i thought i heard capri

[STATUS]

maybe a Lada Niva?

[Harey]

how?

Because all the answers are in this thread but you fail to acknowledge them.

Also, the thread title is very misleading, it implies that you are spending lots of money on mods but are stuck at a particular power level.

Your problem is that your car is not running properly. As a consequence, your car is slower than normal.

Plus your mechanic is barely any help at all.

Thats why this thread is full of fail and so frustrating when trying to help you out.

[horrace]

This thread has an incredible amount of LOL in it.

hahaha fixed

[jordanlisa69]

alright if you didnt know im in chch New Zealand.

so mines is fine for the conditions over here running 98 with 9 degree temps max each day isnt it?

yes the knock sensor and o2 sensor are playing up so thats what im goin to fix and see how it runs.

i dont live in oz so nistune is out of the question.

safcII sounds great but with a factory restriction of 10psi how will it be able to go over that even leaning it out alot because isnt it controlled by the afm voltage? thats why it goes into r&r because it reads voltage level is getting to high so safeguards the engine into r&r.

its funny how everyone is saying its a joke this thread but no one can leave the ecu out of it. its not the ecu im not that dumb. until i get these things fixed the most expensive ecu ever with the best tune in the world wouldnt work atm. i didnt ask anything once again about the ecu and if its right or not for my car i asked what the problem of r&r could be because it happens with the 2 ecu's.

[jordanlisa69]

Ok firstly find a proper performance mechanic, not one that uses the nissan diagnostic tool only to find your problems.

it wasnt the nissan diagnostic tool it was a programme to tune the cars. he put up all the real time sensors and had a look. it came up with a faulty o2 sensor and the knock guage wasnt working properly. he also checked all the maps and everything was fine except it showed a hell of alot of r&r. so the base map for the ecu is absolutely fine for the car.

2ndly the mines ECU is complete rubbish, sell it and put your stock ECU back in, if anything the mines ECU is going to be worse because its just got a shitty chip that is designed for japanese fuel and climates, not australian ones causing R&R to happen much sooner. All they do is advance the timing massively and richen it up, neither are what you want, all it will do is cause R&R sooner and probably cause the motor to ping its tits off killing the motor in a short period of time. Do not listen to advice from whoever told you to buy that ECU again.

Now once you have found a proper nissan performance mechanic and reinstalled your standard ecu I highly recommend a nistune. A nistune will be installed into your standard ECU and will allow the mechanic to tune it as if it was a full aftermarket ECU, they can tune fuel and ignition along with a load of other features.

This will fix the R&R issue you are having, it will let them lean out the mixtures and add extra timing all over the map. This will allow you to run you 13psi of boost, it will give you way more power and better fuel economy.

A proper mechanic who tunes and installs nistune modules regularly should be able to confirm whether or not your O2 sensor needs to be replaced.

The reason it is running rich is that is what the ECU tune you just paid money for is, rich. The reason the timing is retarded is they advance the timing so far that the ecu detects very high knock levels and winds it back way past what even the standard tune would have. This is 100% expected as you have a tune that was designed for a different engine configuration than yours. Even with the same mods just the fuel and climate change is enough to put the tune completely out of whack.

It is not the fact the ECU is bad, it is the fact you are putting an untuned ECU into your car, even if you had a $5k motec computer and didn't tune it our opinion would be it is shit. The whole point of replacing an ECU is so you can get it tuned to suit the specific car, chipping it is just dumb waste of time and money 90% of the time.

Nistune is as good as powerFC is my opinion, if anything it is better as it retains the stock ecu making it 'legal' when going through inspections, contains all the standard features as well meaning you get great idle when flicking the ac on off etc. I know you can get this with a PFC but it isn't as easy.

I'd be surprised if it was making more than 120kw with the tune so out of whack that it is winding the timing back due to knock levels.

the car is going faster then when the standard ecu was in so it has made a difference. once these are fixed i will take it in for a run on the dyno to check everything as he advised. so if this ecu kills my engine id be very suprised considering i got it off someone who had the same mods as my car and put out 205kw atw on 12psi safely. so im expecting that out of mine soon.

[jordanlisa69]

sorry that was meant to be in here.

it wasnt the nissan diagnostic tool it was a programme to tune the cars. he put up all the real time sensors and had a look. it came up with a faulty o2 sensor and the knock guage wasnt working properly. he also checked all the maps and everything was fine except it showed a hell of alot of r&r. so the base map for the ecu is absolutely fine for the car.

[jordanlisa69]

Because all the answers are in this thread but you fail to acknowledge them.

Also, the thread title is very misleading, it implies that you are spending lots of money on mods but are stuck at a particular power level.

Your problem is that your car is not running properly. As a consequence, your car is slower than normal.

Plus your mechanic is barely any help at all.

Thats why this thread is full of fail and so frustrating when trying to help you out.

so just read everything again and there are 3 helpfull people at max. the rest is bulsh*t about changing the ecu.

and the guy from nzefi should be good. or he wouldnt have a job. look up the website http://www.nzefi.com/home/

[Rolls]

its funny how everyone is saying its a joke this thread but no one can leave the ecu out of it. its not the ecu im not that dumb. until i get these things fixed the most expensive ecu ever with the best tune in the world wouldnt work atm. i didnt ask anything once again about the ecu and if its right or not for my car i asked what the problem of r&r could be because it happens with the 2 ecu's.

God damn this is frustrating, it isn't the ECU, it is the tune on the ECU, did you not read my posts? I am quite sure the mines ECU is just a standard ECU with a chip in it so R&R is going to happen as the tune is not meant for your engine

the car is going faster then when the standard ecu was in so it has made a difference. once these are fixed i will take it in for a run on the dyno to check everything as he advised. so if this ecu kills my engine id be very suprised considering i got it off someone who had the same mods as my car and put out 205kw atw on 12psi safely. so im expecting that out of mine soon.

The mines has a tune for a car that is not yours on it, you need to have to tuned to suit your car. A nistune is the cheapest option, there are people in the states using nistune modules so I see no reason why it can't be done in NZ. Give them an email and they will list people that can tune it for you. Every engine is different, you can't put an ecu in and expect it to run properly without having the tune amended.

so just read everything again and there are 3 helpfull people at max. the rest is bulsh*t about changing the ecu.

and the guy from nzefi should be good. or he wouldnt have a job. look up the website http://www.nzefi.com/home/

If you aren't going to listen to people with bucket loads of experience, then don't bother asking for help. The problem is your ECU is not tuned to suit your car, until you fix this you will experience the issues you have listed, you are also risking popping your motor, the O2 sensor won't change your power output as the signal is disregarded when running at full throttle, however it might make your car run slightly better on cruise.

Edited July 1, 2010 by Rolls

[lachlanw]

are you mates with scott and blair by chance?

and its the seel/grommet bit that doesnt seal properly.

can you elaborate on scott and blair ?

i drive a series 2 silver stagea with a big "ALPINESTARS" sticker on the back window

the 100 will be the "fuel base" that comes up in the blazt/ other nissan consult programs

[Harey]

sorry that was meant to be in here.

it wasnt the nissan diagnostic tool it was a programme to tune the cars. he put up all the real time sensors and had a look. it came up with a faulty o2 sensor and the knock guage wasnt working properly. he also checked all the maps and everything was fine except it showed a hell of alot of r&r. so the base map for the ecu is absolutely fine for the car.

As said previously O2 sensor will not impact power, it will only impact fuel consumption under light throttle conditions. So its not the issue you are talking about so please stop mentioning it.

The only way I can see the knock guage having an impact if it is sensing knock and then pulling back timing.

How is the ecu map "absolutely fine" if there is "a hell of alot of r&r"?? Isnt that the enemy we are trying to avoid?

This alone shows you that the mine ecu is failing you.

Edited July 1, 2010 by Harey

[Harey]

so just read everything again and there are 3 helpfull people at max. the rest is bulsh*t about changing the ecu.

and the guy from nzefi should be good. or he wouldnt have a job. look up the website http://www.nzefi.com/home/

Once everything is running properly, then you will not gain any more power until you change the ecu. Its not buls*t, its the truth. The more mods you do, the faster it goes into r&r and you will see no gain in power.

I would drop the boost back to standard and give the ecu some chance of not going into r&r. It will most likely be faster as well as more fuel efficient.

Edited July 1, 2010 by Harey

[mad082]

ignore the o2 sensor. unplug it if you want. you don't need it to try and solve the issue you are having. the car will run without it as it is only used to alter the mapping at low load. the moment you go over about 40% throttle (depending on rpm) the ecu ignores the o2 sensor as the air/fuel ratio will be outside what the o2 sensor can read. the stock o2 sensor can only read between approx 14:1 and 15:1. anything outside of that range is considered either rich or lean as far as the o2 sensor is concerned and it can't tell how rich or how lean as it is already maxed out. at full throttle the stock map on the ecu will be somewhere between 10:1 up to 12.5:1 (since we are talking a mines ecu). as far as the stock o2 sensor is concerned this is rich, but it will have started saying it was rich the moment it got into the 13's.

so my point is, you could remove the o2 sensor and throw it into the ocean and then put a bolt in the hole in the dump pipe to block the hole and it won't make a scrap of difference to the fact that you can't wind the boost up to 10psi. the o2 sensor is only there to give you better fuel economy when cruising along at low throttle, like on the highway.

i think what more needs to be asked is, what exactly are you thinking rich and retard is? since you put in a mines ecu and it still does it, i'm inclined to think that your issue has nothing to do with rich and retard and it's simply your coils breaking down. i've known a few r33's with remapped stock ecu's, including one i had in my car, and all of them would take much more than 10psi without anny issues. my mates 33 could run 16psi without anny issues. i was running around 14/15psi through it, where as the stock ecu had given up at 13psi. another mate of mine who i did a turbo install for was making 250kw on his remapped ecu with only minor tuning from a greddy emanage to calculate for the bigger injectors and add in a touch more fuel, but i hadn't put in anything to prevent any sort of pretection like rich and retard.

so again, to sum up what i just said, pull out your coils and spark plugs and inspect them. i'd say there is a good chance that what you are thinking is rich and retard is simply a missfire caused by your coils breaking down, or spark plugs being dead (but more likely the coils).

[Rolls]

Coils could amplify the issue, but the tune will still be out of wack. Worth checking them for signs of arcing and them shorting though.

I've found running too rich makes bad coils far more obvious as the richer the mixture the harder it is too ignite. If you lean the tune out bad coils that miss all the time can stop missing. Experienced all this first hand.

[3LGODZILA]

given up hes not gonna listen, if his engine blows up, pings, or leans out i aint gonna lose sleep over it and doubt any1 else on here will.

change your o2 sensor if u think its faulty

remove your boost controller and go back to standard

keep the ecu, i dont give a f**k

then sell your car and get an mx5

[jordanlisa69]

ive got a brand new o2 sensor so will put it in on sat.

and the knock sensor was reading it knocking all the time as well so thats why it could be sending it into r&r.

il just fix these things and see what happens because im getting barely 280km to a full tank of 98 not boosting much so something is wrong.

if these dont change anything then i will sell the ecu and get something else obviously.

and my coils were new about 4 months ago and they are heavy duty ones that are in my mates 25det 32 pulling about 250kw. might try his coils and see what happens so can find out if mine are faulty or not.

i havnt ignored anyones points of view about anything im just hearing totally different things over here compared to oz. the tuner said the mines will work fine because the standard map was fine. but the real time map was r&r all over the place. so he showed me what it should be doing compared to what its actually doing.

[jordanlisa69]

Once everything is running properly, then you will not gain any more power until you change the ecu. Its not buls*t, its the truth. The more mods you do, the faster it goes into r&r and you will see no gain in power.

I would drop the boost back to standard and give the ecu some chance of not going into r&r. It will most likely be faster as well as more fuel efficient.

i didnt mean the things people were saying about the ecu is bulsh*t i meant i dont wana know if the ecu is bad or not. i wana find out whats wrong with the engine or i would have said is the ecu crap or not.

ive turned the boost back to about 8 or 9 psi and goes alright sometimes on that. but r&r on full throttle until it reaches the set boost so theres a mixture of problems in my engine. which all adds up coz the o2 sensor and knock sensors are faulty.

[SoFreshSoClean]

i didnt mean the things people were saying about the ecu is bulsh*t i meant i dont wana know if the ecu is bad or not. i wana find out whats wrong with the engine or i would have said is the ecu crap or not.

ive turned the boost back to about 8 or 9 psi and goes alright sometimes on that. but r&r on full throttle until it reaches the set boost so theres a mixture of problems in my engine. which all adds up coz the o2 sensor and knock sensors are faulty.

Dude, you haven't listened to a thing anyone has said.

The Oxygen sensor does not affect power in any possible way

As someone has said you could stuff a chicken sandwich in the hole and you would still get the same power.

The oxygen sensor helps the ECU cycle between rich/lean on cruise so as to obtain the best fuel economy.

If you want to avoid R&R, sell your mines ECU and get a proper standalone unit, or use a piggyback on the standard one (which is cheaper anyways)

Mines ECU might seem cheaper now (it isnt), but is it worth blowing your motor?