Jump to content
SAU Community

Major Problem With Headlight!

dmc32
 Share

Recommended Posts

dmc32 Rookie

dmc32

Posted
Posted

Hey all, 

First off i've read through COUNTLESS threads and posts, but have not found the answer.

Ok so I got new L.E.D's for my 2003 coupe, the parkers went in fine and are working.

So I got h1's and h4's for the regular and high beams respectively. 

I jacked the car up went through the panel and removed the front bumped blah blah, got access to the lights, removed the old regular beam globe, then replaced it with the h1, tested and it was fine. Then as I was putting the globe back in I had real trouble with the 2 metal washers getting them to lock in.

I eventually got them sort of in, and re-tested...nothing!

I'm totally lost as 2 what happened, but i'm guessing it has something to do with the metal washers.

Do they have to be touching? Like the way it was in, it had the metal washer, globe, then the other washer behind that? 

Any ideas? 

I have already taken it to an auto electrician when i was getting my window motor replaced and he said 'you'll have to take it to a panel beater as I cant get access to the lights' obviously he couldn't be bothered!

Thanks!  

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326823-major-problem-with-headlight/
Share on other sites
rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

Those LED bulbs are evil. They give off wrong voltage reading to the BCM or the ECU and the car start to think something is faulty.

My bro in law had this dreaded Alfa which he changed the parker bulb to one of those LED bulb thing or something.

He complaint that if he didn't start his car for a while the battery will go flat. During one night I noticed that even at power off, one of the LED bulb are still ON! basically faintly still on emiting a very faint light - now - no wonder his battery kept getting flat. Also every time he start the car, the on-board dashboard warning will give out a "Left Light Error", "Right Light Error" message, scaring off prospective buyers which made it took us more than 6 month to get rid of the car and I had to run around replacing all the LED bulbs back to normal bulb...

I wish you luck with those bulbs. You better hope you didn't fried some circuit in the car because of that...! Some things are meant to be left alone in these cars, mate... they're not your average Datsun 120Y

dmc32 Rookie

dmc32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oh really! Yeah i'm really hoping I havent fried a wire!

Their aren't any warning lights, and all the other lights on that side and everything else work, just can't get that particular regular beam to work!

Even when I changed it back to the standard globe it still would not light!

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

With H1 bulbs, the framing around the bulb is the grounding for it - so if that area isnt 'right', the bulb won't have any grounding and won't work.

I'm wondering if that's where you're having issues with these 'washers'. Poking around that area with a multimeter on the source wire, and back to the body ground should tell you if there's a problem with the grounding or something more serious, either way.

dmc32 Rookie

dmc32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oh ok!

The grounding I did not know, as when I re-tried and tried I had removed the washers.

But the first time I had them clicked in it must have been close to right as they were working.

So do I just have to get the metal parts to line up and fold on set of tabs back to kind of hold it together?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • sonicii
      Mechanic in Victoria

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...