Jump to content
SAU Community

Can Genuine R32 Gtr! Bumper Can Be Repaired..?


skydie
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

Im not sure if my bumper can be repaired or not because it's genuine??? its just got a spit cut from the vent & threw the top of the vents... Another of tho's is goner cost me 1k or not unless i get a copy one that's $525buks... Need to kno before i get it for nothing.. ;p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys!

Im not sure if my bumper can be repaired or not because it's genuine??? its just got a spit cut from the vent & threw the top of the vents... Another of tho's is goner cost me 1k or not unless i get a copy one that's $525buks... Need to kno before i get it for nothing.. ;p

is the genuine one plastic or fibreglass???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if your located in vic i know a good plastic repair place

Yea where at? This place at dj panel quoted me $160 to send it and get it repaied! but dont kno if its goner be good or not... cheers!

There's a lil dint on the back guard and the side skirt and to fix the whole front.. he wants $1100... what do u rkon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

$160 is alright to get the bumper repaired depends on how much damage you have on it,

Try out

DALKAT Plastic & Fibreglass Repairs 8 Manton Rd, Oakleigh South VIC 3167(03) 9543 8318‎

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
    • Have you adjusted the clutch pedal rod? You can wind it in to shorten it. Just can be a cnut to get to.
    • Yes sir, that was me. Fake ARP's are also a thing over here in Canada and we only order from reputable dealers. It's sad that even simple things like bolts and hoses are now also being copied... anything to make a dollar.  Story time. Like all cheap crap from China, it's even an issue with firearms. Roughly 15 years ago, I purchased a new cheap Norinco 12g shotgun. First time out in the bush with it, while firing, bolt assembly didn't lock and it fired out of battery. The receiver also being cheap steel, basically exploded in my face. I was lucky to be wearing eye protection. Long story short, don't buy Chinese junk. Also Norinco being state run and their only military arms producer, if ever they do try and take over a country, don't worry about it lol. 
    • Installed  Nismo coppermix twin competition spec last year in my bnr32 with pull trans with Oem slave cylinder. The point at where the clutch disengages/enages is right at the top of the clutch pedal, meaning I barely have to push the pedal down for the clutch to be disengaged.  You guys that have the same combo are you experiencing this high pedal bite point??   Secondly I’d like to have the disengagement point lower meaning I have to push the pedal more(further not effort)for it to be disengaged.  I’m thinking to use a Nismo big operating cylinder(bigger bore at 13/16 vs Oem 3/4) which will require more pedal stroke to get the equivalent movement at the clutch fork. But I see Nismo web site says not to mix these 2 as the Nismo big operating cylinder doesn’t have enough stroke to disengage??? Any folks run both the coppermix twin pull with Nismo cylinder??    Thanks in advance for the replies but prefer only guys with pull clutches to respond. thanks     
×
×
  • Create New...