Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. Just looking for opinions and maybe if peopl have had this problem, how they solved it.

So the car is r34 gtt auto- converted to manual running auto ecu still. 3inch exhaust, turbo back to muffler and can on the back. bleed tap -8-10psi. Front mount gtr style intercooler 100x600x300 (yes I know this is far to big, trying to sell to downgrade).

The car runs fine as is, occasionally creeping up to 11 psi, causing rich and retard, But for now I can live with that. Now i have bought an put a greddy imitation plenum on the car, yes I know they have there pitfalls, but for the price and a bitta work it was the option i have taken.

Now the reasons for putting front face plenum on, I wanted to tidy the engine bay up, and try reduce lag a bit. I'm also wanting to fit top mount and turbo etc. So my thoughts were to do this in stages so when things go wrong there's less changes to go over. That and I don't want to put turbo on till can afford ecu. And in my mind, using the factory sensors etc, not much is diffrent to the ecu, just a diffrent path for the air.

So the intake is on, with factory throttlebody, minus traction control, factory aac valve with adaptor, standard neo injectors. The issue is a big stall stutter at low revs, if you just give throttle a light touch, it dies, or if you try start moving etc bitta a flat spot, like a poorly tuned carb motor if you can understand. And after driving, the topend seemed a bit flat, but when I checked fault codes a knock sensor was unplugged, so i assume it was in get home mode. Haven't driven since plugged back in. Due to a rugby injury I havn't been able to work on it, and was just looking for sum input before i get into it.

Yes the tps is set to correct voltage, although not having traction control in there has thrown up fault code that its unplugged. Could this be an issue? If so how have ppl gotten round it? From the intercooler to the plenum I've run 3inch piping aswell. And the other area I thought would cause greif is the injectors. I've used the factory rail, but removed the dampner, and all the looped hard piping that feeds the regulator, again just to tidy it up looks wise. I have another complete factory rail there that I was gonna try.

Any advice or ideas to try would be greatly appreciated, and sorry for the novel, but time and time again I see ppl on here complaining about not getting a full description of the mods and problem, so I've tried to make a clear picture. thanks in advance for any help offered.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326911-r34-front-facing-plenum/
Share on other sites

is you acc valve connected to the ic pipe pre throttle body and post afm?

search secert squirrel tweak for removing TC . it involves feeding e certian voltage into one of the ecu pins by way of some zener doides

Yeah the aac valve is plumbed in b4 throttlebody, was also thinking that mite be an issue if too big? Haven't been able to get the idle below 1000rpm with the adjutment, so thought maybe too much air? was gonna look into restricting it a bit? And thanks for your tip on secret squirrel thread, although i couldn't find that exact one, i found a related topic, which i got the gist of how to do it, so thanks very much.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it was a bit of confusion with me, I rang and asked if they had a boot for a soft top, and then the paint shop when they rang and were asked if it had a hard top on it, which it does, just not a PRHT....LOL Meh, whilst frustrating for all concerned it isn't a war stopper and should be a thing of the past in a week or two In other N/A related news, car is booked in at the end of the month for the cams, springs, retainers, harmonic balancer and retune  I might even pull the lazy arse card and get them to do a full service on it whilst it is there
    • Factory LSD is supposedly a 2 way with a very conservative cam. If you've already tried adding friction modifier to the diff oil and it still locks up too much for your liking you might want to adjust the ramp rate on the cam to be more like OEM instead of reducing initial torque even further. People claim the 8 kgf-m disc kit for the OEM LSD is still very streetable but I've never been able to compare everything side by side on my own.
    • Oh man, at least it sounds they've accepted they stuffed up and not put it back on you...could see some confusion if they asked if it had a hardtop or not, and you've answered truthfully but maybe not answering their real question which is what roof did it have from the factory! Glad your keeping it N/A 2.5
    • Nah, I much prefer colour matched Talking about colour matching stuff, the new/used boot lid turned up, all painted up perfectly......aaaannnndddd, it's for a power retractable hard top, not a soft top.....LOL They are now sending a boot to fit a soft top.....,  whilst frustrating, life is like that sometimes, sometimes you just need to dodge, duck, dip, dive and, ummm, dodge.
    • You would need to paint your hardtop again though
×
×
  • Create New...