Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gents,

Well the time has finally come.

After years of being on the forums reading and watching many fine cars get built, I have finally taken the step to rebuild my motor.

After all, for a 21 year old birthday present, what could an old Datsun want?

So,

After many ear bending conversations with people both on and off the forums, I made my mind up to build a motor.

2.6 fully built or a mild build that keeps the car within the design plan set out from Nissan or go a slightly different route.

As a few of you will understand, I got hooked on track days / nights here in Perth.

And having been bitten by the bug, the idea to take the next step started to develop.

All of that changed though, after Gav let me have a few hot laps in his GTR.

Needless to say the 2.8 bug bit and bit hard.

I was gob smacked at the liner power delivery and the big fat torque band that the motor had!

I had to have one.

Finally after months of searching I came upon a brand new unused step 2 2.8 HKS Kit here in Perth.

I sorted out a price for the kit with the previous owner as well as snapping up a brand new N1 Block as well.

(Unfortunately the previous owner didn't go through with his build)

So i have the ingredients to start my build.

As items are purchased I will throw up the photos.

And a comprehensive photographic build library will be constructed.

At this point the goal for the car will be 480 - 500 RWHP working on 90% of the motors capabilities.

If I get more so be it, but the car will be mainly used for street and track work (1 Track meet a month and about 1000km's a month street)

I am going to build it right from the get go and hopefully not have to do it again for a very long time. (Touch Wood)

Parts List to source at the moment **

HKS Oil Pump

N1 Water Pump

Hi Octane Steel Fabricated Sump

1 Way Front Diff to be installed

HKS Fuel Rail

HKS Injectors

Nismo Fuel Pump

New Head with Port & Polish

1mm Over size valves

** Will add to the list as I have time.

So it is not complete at this time.

Forgive me for the quality of the photo's

I was in a bit of a rush to get home.

Cheers

Mike

post-9747-1277885606_thumb.jpg

post-9747-1277885630_thumb.jpg

post-9747-1277885653_thumb.jpg

post-9747-1277885679_thumb.jpg

post-9747-1277885700_thumb.jpg

post-9747-1277885719_thumb.jpg

post-9747-1277885742_thumb.jpg

post-9747-1277885757_thumb.jpg

post-9747-1277885773_thumb.jpg

post-9747-1277885788_thumb.jpg

post-9747-1277886183_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326974-mikes-engine-build/
Share on other sites

Running HKS 680cc Injectors with HKS rail and NISMO 280 P/L Fuel Pump

D-Jethro PFC will run the whole shebang

Car will remain as she does in the picture.

* have removed the Blacksun Imports stickers off the flanks

Nice choice mate i think you will be happy with the outcome. RB28 is one of the best combos around IMHO but in saying that I may be slightly biased. Check out my build thread I imagine it is probably along the lines of what you are aiming for. I will have a few updates in the next week or so now i have finnally managed to find some time to devote to it

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Da...ld-t231223.html

Dazmo,

Your thread has been read more times than I care to remember.

ABM,

Andre is not building my engine.

However it is being built at one of the the more well known and proven Workshops here in Perth

Marcus,

Incoming PM

Not sure on the coating,

However everything is band new and only opened by

Me today.

So I would "assume" that they come from HKS as seen in

The picture.

I will follow up on your question however and let you know the answer.

The nickel coating is applied more so for scuff resistance or to aid in the reduction of friction, rather than heat disbursment. I think its a nickel ceramic composite that is applied. Correct me if im wrong!

Edited by AtomicBomberMan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...