Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, good point Alex. I didn't think of checking it with the Cipher cable. My guess is the ECU reads real speed & modifies the speedo to be wrong.

I have a similar question about intake air temp. Cipher was saying 38 deg when outside was 14 deg as displayed on the dash.

I'm starting to get the feeling our cars are telling us lies the whole time, lol.

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Ummm... shouldn't be that wrong. I have mine after the turbo, after the I/C and smack bank in the engine bay (I'm sure you've seen where) and on cruise it only ever reads a few degrees above ambient.

Yours being smack bang at the front sucking what I thought would be cold air, I figure would be pretty close to ambient.

Maybe get a pod filter like me.... :whistling:

Ummm... shouldn't be that wrong. I have mine after the turbo, after the I/C and smack bank in the engine bay (I'm sure you've seen where) and on cruise it only ever reads a few degrees above ambient.

Yours being smack bang at the front sucking what I thought would be cold air, I figure would be pretty close to ambient.

Maybe get a pod filter like me.... :whistling:

LOL, no thanks. It's nothing to do with the filter. Probably some weird correction table at work if you ask me.

If there's only one air temp sensor in the airstream, then why the 2 different readings. Remember, the in car display reads accurate....

The ecu is reading spot on in mine, according to the Informeter and GPS. The intake sensor is located in the afm and is close to the exhaust so temps can get up there, if the car was cold then perhaps the sensor is out?

On my informeter, the intake temp is always at least 10 deg above ambient.

Obviously it will be higher when sitting in traffic.

Averages around 10 above when at steady cruise on the motorway.

Should read identical unless there is some funky in plenum sensor or something.Haven't got it in Fahrenheit have you? Just thought I'd ask!

Ill stick it on Craig's car sometime, and get a reading.

I just had a oh-oh moment, but then checked the data logs. The column header says 'INTAKE AIR TMP ©' & the temps on that particular run were 26-28 deg C. I know the ambient air was ~14 deg C so maybe that is about right - 12 or 13 degrees above ambient??

When you have it near Craig's car, it would be interesting to see if it's similar.

The ecu is reading spot on in mine, according to the Informeter and GPS. The intake sensor is located in the afm and is close to the exhaust so temps can get up there, if the car was cold then perhaps the sensor is out?

Yep, I agree that the ECU knows the correct speed. If Alex or I get a chance to use the Cipher cable & it supports that statement (& it will), then it will be conclusive - Nissan engineers are treating us like idiots by building the optomistic speedo error into the CAN bus.

Re the air temps - where does the dash display get its temp reading from? It can't be the same one co-located with the AFM or they'd be the same (see my findings above).

And sorry to hijack the speedo thread with all this talk of temps.

On my informeter, the intake temp is always at least 10 deg above ambient.

Obviously it will be higher when sitting in traffic.

Averages around 10 above when at steady cruise on the motorway.

OK, so that supports my Cipher readings. In the larger scheme of things, I don't suppose it really matters where the dash display gets its data....

There is a sensor in front of the intercooler for outside temp, it heatsoaks off the radiator when you are parked. I would say it's only for the display or perhaps the climate unit?

The speedo error will be inside the dash, there will be some way of adjusting it but without translated schematics it would be difficult to find. I was hoping the Nismo dash would be more accurate, it isn't. I just use the informeter now.

Ahh, OK, I didn't know there was a temp sensor there. I always figured the heat soak when parked was because it was under the bonnet.

The way to adjust the speedo is with the Jaycar kit & intercepting pin 27 at TCM (same one as used by the cruise control) so it's modified before it gets sent to the CAN.

Two things worth noting:

1) The adjusted output will be a compromise, ie fix it at 100km/h & it may read a bit low at 50km/h

2) Because the signal is changed before getting to the ECU, the ECU won't know exactly what speed you are going so it could affect the odd map table & things like the Informeter will read different (wrong). I doubt that there will be anything too noticable going on though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
×
×
  • Create New...