Jump to content
SAU Community

Towing With A Fwd Car Ok?


geraus
 Share

Recommended Posts

should be ok to tow as long as you have heavy duty tow bar and heavy duty springs...

i have a r31 to tow might be worth thinking ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ohh ok sweet, my toyota had standard springs :whoops: and a tow-bar how do I know if it's a heavy duty tow bar?

Cheers

Prob won't be HD. FWD limits what you can tow. Prob 1200kg max so not legal. Might still do the job but the toyota won't like it much...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That doesn't sound like a good idea. My dad used to tow a significantly large boat and trailor with his 3.5L Magna, but that still weighs less than a heavy car on a trailor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^^^it does happen mate was in a car with car on trailer and went sliding on the freeway both cars luckily it stoped nothing flipped and no one crashed....

be careful and get some experience....

make sure trailer tires are set up good.(psi and good tread.) same as the car.

all four wheels are strapped down really tight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FWD will tow ok. I towed my car from Winton back to Wantirna with my old Man's Honda Odyssey with a heavy ass rental trailer years ago. No issues at all.

Just make sure you have the car positioned on the trailer just forward of the trailer's centre point, as this will stop the trailer from getting it's sway on...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WOT THEEEEEEEEEEEEE OMG, THAT PICTUREE!!! dam i feel sorry for that guy!!! hope he has insurance or something....

I just hope when i tow my car to winton , it wont sway much!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It all really comes down to what the car and the tow-bar are rated for towing. I know my SSS Pulsar (FWD) is only rated for 1200kg - so it'd be no good for towing my R34.

A big FWD like a Magna might be rated for it .. Toyota don't really make that big cars though, so I dunno - check out your Toyota's factory manual - should tell you what the towing capability is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

worth noting the towing capacity of that car as listed by Toyota is 1200kg

http://www.drive.com.au/used-cars/TOYOTA/V...291049&pt=1

(click specifications and look down for towing capacity)

remembering a average car trailer form a rental place is like 800-1000kg (sometimes more) add a car you are going to be close to doubling the tow capacity.

so if you tow and get pulled by the RTA/cops they can force you to leave the trailer on the side of the road.

Also if you have an accident...insurance will not pay out.

so will it do it..yes..will it do it legally no.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're nuts.

My thoughts exactly. Not to mention that immense strain it'll put on a motor and transmission that was never designed to haul that much weight. Especially in a FWD. Not smart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Meh, I dunno...

a) Breaking the law by towing over rated capacity

b) Running the risk of damage to the car, engine, transmission, tow-bar itself (who knows, it could just plain rip off at speed doing who knows what damage)

c) Voiding insurance (which if it flies off at speed and hits someone, you're gonna hate yourself for)

Is it really worth it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why does everybody have to get on the moral high ground all the time. We all know these things!

You guys worry way to much. Have you ever heard of people pulled over for towing to heavy a weight? Never.

If your towing to winton I would prob be a bit more sceptical expecially if you don't have a transmission cooler. I'd imagine you'll cook the tranny and possibly the engine might get hot. Thought it was going to be sandown. My wrong. I'd say the old girl is going to struggle. Don't you have mates with bigger cars you can borrow for a day.

Re pic above. A mate almost rolled his patrol with my boat on the back at xmas but that was because he didn't know what he was doing and hit the brakes when it started to sway on a downhill section (This is when trailers will sway most of the time) instead of accelerating out of it. We ended up in the dirt off the side of the road doing prob 80 semi sideways and then sideways squelling down the road. Didn't come around and hit us though. All he had to do was accel a bit and it would have been fine. I know heaps of people who have almost anded up in the shit towing cars on trailers. All due to swaying with lucky endings like my mate.

Point being you need to know what your doing and weigh the towbar right as one of the guys said above. Boat is a bit light on the towbar and it sways on other mates cars. The gtr with 18's tows it fine. Its only about 1000kg inc trailer that almost rolled a patrol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, yeah, no arguing that the duty cycle is different. And a circuit car will go to those speeds for more distance and longer times. But, I suspect that if a tailshaft has a harmonic problem, that it would cause damage and shit itself maybe even on the first pass. A second or two of running at the resonant/harmonic problem speed is already a couple hundred revolutions.
    • Shaft speed would be the same, however it's how long they hold it there for and repeated conditions. FWIW half way down the main straight at SMSP I'm bouncing off 4th with a 8600RPM limiter. That shaft would be spinning at 8600RPM for a few seconds before I need to smash the brakes, by T2 it's getting close to that speed again. Now a drag car/roll race car would see that shaft speed for a 1 to 2 secs then they would coast, hit the brakes and that's it.
    • With same diff ratio, tyre diameter and road speed, the tailshaft rpm is the same regardless of the gearbag's ratio. Given that very quick drag cars are probably doing similar road speeds to the fastest circuit cars (circa 300 km/h), and there will be many of either category that can't go that fast and so you'd have inummerable matchups between drag and circuit car speeds at smaller numbers, and given that they are probably using rather similar tyre diameters and probably using similar diff ratios, and...where any of those numbers were different they could quite easily be in opposite directions thus cancelling out.... I think you'd find that there'd be more similarity than difference in tailshaft speed between these two use cases, no?
    • they might see those prop shaft speeds for 1 to 2 secs only 
    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
×
×
  • Create New...